Flight School

View Original

Pinot Grigio: Establishing a Wine Baseline

Many years ago when I was figuring out Twitter, I started an account so I could follow wine bloggers and sports personalities. It was just something to do to give me a break from taking care of small children every now and then. Sports was clearly a goof-off thing, but getting to know those in the wine community was important to me. They offered interesting perspective; they weren't selling publications, reviews, or individual wines. They were just telling me how good a wine was, had interesting stories to tell, and if I had never tried a wine before I kept my eyes open for it.

I also followed retailers and other beverage industry folks. One retailer in New Jersey ended up becoming a place where I worked, and a few of the individuals became good friends in the business. One person in particular was a great partner in crime on nights we were on the clock together. We would often try to steer customers towards wines that were just outside of the comfort zone and the wine most frequently found inside the comfort zone was Pinot Grigio.

Ah, Pinot Grigio. The easy Italian crowd-pleaser; the "safe choice" for a party, or when you just want a chilled glass of dry white wine to suck down with light foods or after a busy summer day at the office. In this Italian form, the Pinot Grigio grape (when grown in the flat, fertile regions of the Veneto region) is a neutral, light and inoffensive wine. Maybe there is some green apple or faint citrus notes, but that's about it. Simple, clean, and easy-drinking.

But you are reading this because you want to explore and discover other wines. You want new aromas and flavors. You want to break away from the everyday. Fortunately, Pinot Grigio makes for an excellent starting point in building your flight. Pinot Grigio was the very first wine I tasted when I went for Intermediate certification at WSET wine school, because of the baseline of acidity, body, alcohol, and flavor intensity.

Now, back to my New Jersey retail days. We had two shelves in the Italian section for white wines: Pinot Grigio and "Not Pinot Grigio." The Not Pinot Grigio shelf was packed with all kinds of grape names and places throughout Italy. Anytime I saw a customer standing in that section for more than three seconds, I knew this person didn't just want to walk away with the same old bottle. It was always easy for me to approach this person; I have been there before. I have stood in front of a giant wall of Italian white wines that all looked the same to me. My job was to help them choose the right bottle without feeling overwhelmed.

So if you have made it with me this far, congratulations...I have some ideas for you. Here are a few wines you should be able to find in your large-scale local beverage depot or small family-owned boutique wine shop, all of which will cost you roughly $12-$15 per bottle. These wines are all unoaked, fresh, vibrant, and incredibly food-friendly, perfect for your post-holiday resolution to eat lighter, healthier, fresher foods. Commentary on styles reflects a general comparison to your typical bottle of well-known Pinot Grigio. If your friendly wine merchant has a different producer in stock or can offer an alternative, have an open mind and roll with it!

Try your Pinot Grigio alongside two of the following, and you will get to taste for yourself.

Gavi: Made from Cortese grapes, those green apple and citrus fruits from above have a little more flavor intensity. Along with more body and a gentle salty kick (believed to come from the Gavi region's proximity to the coastline), this keeps you close to your comfort zone, but doesn't pull you too far away. Banfi's Principessa di Gavia ($14) has been a consistent example from year to year.

Soave: this region in the Veneto uses the grape varieties of Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave (also called Verdicchio further south in Italy). The Classico region of Soave is its viticultural heartland, providing better quality wines and a more rewarding tasting experience. Inama Soave Classico ($15) gives you more of a floral and nutty character with more body and texture.

Arneis: What better way to get introduced to the grape known as the "little rascal" from the Piedmont area? A wine that typically is priced in the high-teens and above, Elvio Tintero Langhe Arneis ($14) is excellent for the dollar, showing intensely fragrant aromas of hardy herbs (like rosemary), peaches and a touch of almond.

Orvieto: Heading south, the town of Orvieto is located in the landlocked region of Umbria. You will find a wide range of local grape varieties that grow virtually nowhere else in the world, such as Grechetto, and Procanico. Worth a try if you are looking to venture far away from your everyday wine, Palazzone's Terre Vineate ($12) is packed with stone fruit flavors and anise seed.