Flight School

View Original

Ham vs. Lamb: The Great Easter Battle

When the ham does battle with the lamb, things might get chippy on Easter Sunday. Image from Shaun the Sheep

Up here in New England, we got our first real taste of springtime over the weekend and I know those south of here are actually going to experience something more summer-like to start the week. With the warmth, barrage of blooming vegetation and subsequent allergies comes Easter Sunday, a very important holiday for the Christian/Catholic community.

Easter (along with Passover) signal a bit of a change in our eating habits. We finally find some quality seasonal produce from our grocers and markets. Along comes the desire for lighter, fresher meals with vibrant flavors that are a contrast from the heavy stews and roasts (though not totally eliminated). Perhaps if you are not a year-round grilling person, you might be firing up the Weber in the coming days. Our (OK...my) drinking preferences change, too. the big, tannic red wines and rich white wines are exchanged for lighter reds, leaner whites, and perhaps a little rosé (by the way, you will notice a theme of "transition" being hammered home in this week's posts). A change of pace is good for all of us; it keeps us on our toes.

If you are celebrating Easter with a big feast, chances are a baked ham or a cut of lamb will be your dinner table's centerpiece. Based on what direction you go in, you have subcategories of each. Is your ham smoked, or honey-glazed? Are you have leg of lamb, rack of lamb, or grilled lamb chops? With these decisions come wine choices. Different styles and grape varieties are going to impact your palate based on your meat selection.

Generally speaking, ham has a rich texture with a sweet/salty flavor profile. When you add seasonings or glazes, it adds another layer of complexity, making pairing challenging. Lamb is deep, earthy, and strongly flavored. You might find lamb seasoned simply with salt and pepper or prepared with a mint jelly that is also going to add a wrinkle to pairing wines.

So what to do? Well, I have a group of six recommendations for you below, because we are covering quite the range of styles for both main course dinner and for the accompanying wines. Prices are, as always, an approximation. If none of these play well with that side dish of asparagus on Sunday, fear not...I'll have an explanation for you next time. Until then, what are you having on Sunday: Ham or lamb?

Brooks Amycas White Blend ($18)

I have to say, Brooks Winery, located in Amity, Oregon, is one of my favorite producers as they consistently offer high-quality juice. This interesting blend (vintage 2016) of 44% Riesling, 21% Pinot Blanc, 15% Muscat, 10% Gewurztraminer, and 10% Pinot Gris is a New World take on the classic "Gentil" blend of noble aromatic varieties of Alsace, France. All of the tropical and exotic fruits are strong in this one (pineapple, papaya, lychee) and fruity on the palate. Great with a straightforward unglazed baked ham. If you want to go the Old World route, legendary Alsatian producer Hugel has its Gentil ($14) based on the same varieties as Brooks, but with a grape called "Sylvaner" in place of the Pinot Blanc

La Croix des Loges Anjou Chenin Blanc ($16)

Chenin Blanc is an underappreciated variety. Its high natural acidity screams out for food and this barrel-aged example has flavors and aromas of peaches, nectarines, honeysuckle with a honeyed texture that finishes clean with a touch of sweetness. This is the wine you want for the honey-glazed ham.

Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese ($16)

This is a powerfully fruity pink wine that taste like a glass of herbed strawberries. This is a very good crossover wine if you have both of our featured meats; the peach notes are great with spices on a ham, the minty herbaceousness great with a roast lamb

Undurraga Terroir Hunter Pinot Noir ($24)

Pinot Noir has become a popular choice for hams, New World styles in particular thanks to its fruity/jammy red berry flavors and softness on the palate. The example from Undurraga has lush fruit and body; it's slight smokiness is a fine partner if you have a smoked ham.

Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero ($25)

Made of 100% Tempranillo from the outstanding producer Alejandro Fernandez, this wine is packed with dark berry fruit, tobacco and leather. If you are going with the roasted leg of lamb, this is what I'm going with.

Thorn Clarke "Shotfire" Shiraz ($23)

If you are taking the lamb to the grill, this Aussie Shiraz has plenty of bold jammy berry fruit, and peppery character to stand up to the char and the lamb's distinct flavor profile. If you are adding mint to the equation, detour from Shiraz to Wynn's Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($20-ish). It has the same dark fruit and boldness, but eucalyptus, basil and fresh mint enter the picture and that will complement the mint sauce on your lamb.