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What Is New Zealand's Second Act? It's On You To Decide.

New Zealand: It's not just where The Hobbit was filmed. It's a sustainably-grown paradise of food and wine. Image credit: NewZealand.com

In our house, Sauvignon Blanc is our front-runner for our go-to white wine. We have not met a world winemaking region or style of Sauvignon Blanc that we did not enjoy to some degree. Yes, we have long been champions the Loire Valley of France, with one appellation situated squarely at the top of the list. We have found plenty of examples from Bordeaux, California, Chile, and South Africa that we like, but there is a remote part of the globe whose Sauvignon Blanc makes a great case to be invited to the party at all times: New Zealand.

While the oldest vineyards in New Zealand only date back to the 1850s, it wasn't until 1979 when Montana Wines (known to you today as Brancott Estate) produced a Sauvignon Blanc that was accepted by many wine critics as being a high-quality, unique expression of the grape variety. It was pungent and aromatic with the zesty acidity found in the European style, but there were also tropical and exotic fruit flavors accompanying the "green" aggressiveness typically associated with Sauvignon Blanc. It became an instant hit with its overt fruitiness that appealed to the international palate, and the arrow has never pointed higher in the trend of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Tamatoa (voiced by New Zealand native Jemaine Clement) know that while Sauvignon Blanc is the "shiny" grape variety, don't forget about the others offered by New Zealand's wine producers! Image credit: Disney Wiki

With that being said, Sauvignon Blanc makes up 72% of New Zealand's wine production and 86% of its export market. When I read these figures, it made me wonder what the future holds for the New Zealand wine industry. With so much riding on the success of one grape variety, is that going to be sustainable, or is New Zealand in desperate need of a second act, just in case the fortunes of Sauvignon Blanc go south? Let's take a look at some of the other grape varieties that New Zealand is working with these days and begin to dive into what else New Zealand can offer us.

Pinot Noir:

While sitting at a distant second place in the pecking order, Pinot Noir (9% of total production) is being groomed to be the next great grape in New Zealand. Marlborough, the region that has become synonymous with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, has the most plantings of Pinot Noir in the country. However, some of the greatest potential is being discussed further south on the South Island in the Central Otago region, where it is cooler and more mountainous, but the sunny days are what becomes key to Pinot Noir's success. On the fruitiness scale, in general, I put most New Zealand Pinot Noir in between Burgundy (earthy and structured) and Oregon (fresh red berry fruit and vibrant acidity).

Chardonnay:

Hey, just about any winemaking region in the world has plantings of Chardonnay. It can express itself in so many ways, take to different levels of oak treatment, and pair with a wide range of foods. In New Zealand, Hawke's Bay and Gisborne, two coastal regions on the warmer North Island, are making some shimmering examples of delicate, well-balanced Chardonnay. There are even some good ones coming from Kumeu, all the way up north near the city of Auckland, that display very rich, nutty flavors that I would put up against some California expressions any day.

Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer:

The aromatic Alsatian white varieties show excellent potential, too. Pinot Gris isn't as full bodied as it is in Alsace, but does have a silkiness that is very fruity (think golden apples and peaches here) when grown up on the North Island. On the South Island, Pinot Gris expresses itself bright and zesty with citrus fruit flavor. New Zealand Rieslings, mainly from the South Island, have peach and apricot prevailing further north on the island. As you make your way to the Canterbury region and even Central Otago, you get these lime/green apple notes with a lightning bolt of acidity that is tempered by a touch of sweetness. Gewürztraminer shows the typical floral/tropical fruit profile as it does in most parts of the world working with this grape. However, it is not as intense coming from New Zealand; instead I notice a fresh ginger spiciness tends to show, which I really enjoy.

Bordeaux-style Red Blends:

The typical Bordeaux recipe has been Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. With New Zealand's South Island being to cool to ripen these varieties, the North Island (and most notably, Hawke's Bay) is going to be warm enough to allow these grapes to thrive. Merlot has been more successful than Cabernet Sauvignon, in general, and acidity is quite noticeable to go along with the red berry and cherry fruit and a touch of herbaceous notes. There aren't a ton of these available at the moment, but don't be surprised if you start seeing Merlot-Cabernet blends on your shelves soon.

Syrah:

Produced in very small quantity, but slowly making it to the U.S. market, Hawke's Bay has some vineyard area devoted to making lean, fresh blackberry-scented, floral, and peppery wines from Syrah grapes. It's a different style from what you might be used to in France, Australia, or the other regions in the Southern Hemisphere, but it is uniquely savory. As winemakers work more with the grape, expect more examples to slowly appear in your stores.

So what will it be that supplements Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand? Well, the truth is that it is you who will decide what the future holds. The reasons you read this blog is because, like me, you enjoy exploring wines that may not be in your traditional comfort zone. I have a flight of New Zealand wine that you should get your hands on. The more you expose yourself to different styles, the easier it is to give feedback to your retailers, who can then keep bringing in interesting wines like the ones below. Help shape the fortunes of the next great grape of New Zealand...but of course, keep reaching for the Sauvignon Blanc in the process (it still tastes really good, too!).

Kumeu River "Kumeu Village" Chardonnay ($18): 25% of the Chardonnay juice is fermented in barrel while the bulk of it is done in stainless steel. A small amount of oak treatment afterwards rounds the wine a little bit, so acidity isn't super-high. You are left with a wine tasting of lemon curd, peaches, green figs, and hazelnuts. Delicious with a white fish stew.

Lawson's Dry Hills Gewürztraminer ($19): Medium-bodied with plenty of tropical and exotic fruit, along with the ginger aromas and flavor I discussed above. Acidity is higher in this one than, say, something I would taste from Alsace. This is great with a red curry duck or pork dish.

Matua Marlborough Pinot Noir ($17): Matua is a well-known winery, who has a great way to introduce yourself to this style of Pinot Noir. Fresh and vibrant with red berry fruit and a touch of savory earthiness.