Just Taste It: Parés Baltà Blanc de Pacs White Blend

“Just Taste It” is essentially the phrase that best described my food and drink upbringing. Family members would just put something in front of me and implore me to taste it until I actually did. I am now going to do the same to you by giving you a snapshot of something I tried that I think you will like if you give it an honest shot.

So what is this wine?

A white wine blend of grapes that are traditionally used in the Spanish sparkling wines known as Cava. Imported by Broadbent Selections.

Marta Casas (L) and Maria Elena Jimenez (R) of Parés Baltà

Who makes it?

Parés Baltà of Penedès, Catalonia, Spain…Maria Elena Jimenez and Marta Casas are the winemakers and grapegrowers at this small estate, producing organic and biodynamic wines. My first exposure to their product range is with their Cava Brut, but they make a dazzling array of red, white, and rosé still wines for reasonable prices.

What’s in it?

47% Parellada [pah-ray-YA-dah]: a local white grape that is valued by Cava producers for its acidity and freshness, two aspects that are essential for the lively nature of a sparkling wine.

31% Macabeu [ma-kah-BAY-oo]: also referred to as “Macabeo” in southern France or “Viura” in the Rioja region, this white grape offers body and potential alcohol to a blend while withstanding the threat of oxidation (which can lead to tired, caramelized wines). It’s fairly neutral in flavor, too, and acts as a vehicle for bubbles.

22% Xarel-lo [shuh-REL-oh]: very intense earthiness on the nose and the palate, a little of this white grape goes a long way in everyday Cava wines. The Gran Reservas and vintage Cavas might feature a higher proportion of Xarel-lo as the strength of this grape tends to stand up over time, evolving into a more mushroom-like savory flavor.

How is it made?

Each grape is fermented into its own wine separately in stainless steel tanks, then all are blended together afterwards. Cool fermentation over a long period of time (10-17 days) allows delicate flavors and aromas to be preserved. Zero oak treatment. 11.5% abv.

How does it taste?

Light-to-medium bodied, with golden pears complemented by floral notes on the nose. Soft texture and fruity on the finish. Refreshing.

How do I serve it?

Chilled, but not ice cold (take it out of the fridge for 10 minutes then pop the cork. With the season changing to spring, this is going to be one you want to have on-hand as the weather warms up. Additionally, if you are a shellfish fan, particularly sauteed shrimp, this is a wine for you. Hell, if you like to do seafood boils, pick up a bunch of bottles of the Blanc de Pacs.

How much?

About $12. This is a great change of pace from many comfort zones. Blanc de Pacs has more texture and aromatics than a Pinot Grigio from the Veneto, a different fruit flavor from New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and less weight and richness than Chardonnay. It all depends on what you what to get out of your wine drinking experience! For a long time here in Connecticut, we only had access to the Cavas of Parés Baltà, but these non-sparkling wines are beginning to make their way here and should be showing up in your local markets soon enough. Enjoy!

Building A Case For Value

It's not that often these days where I am actively working the sales floor at the store. However in the past and when I help out on the big holidays at Divine Wine, a customer presents me the following:

"Hi! I would like to buy a case of wine, but I am not sure what I want. Can you help me?"

Yes! This is what I do. It's my livelihood. I always get excited at the opportunity to send customers home with 12 bottles of wine that (hopefully) they will enjoy with friends, family, colleagues, or just by themselves on a random Wednesday night.

Now, there is a key component to the statement above: "I am not sure what I want." In general, wine drinkers know what they like, but in this instance I get the impression that my customers are hesitant to step outside of their comfort zone. After all, they are buying a full case of wine so people are investing their hard-earned dollars in me and my recommendations. Of course if you choose to make your own choices, which you are perfectly capable of doing, I won't treat you as if you were having a touch time choosing a dozen donuts:

No matter whether you decide to choose specific wines on your own or ask me for help, I have a way for you to structure how you go about purchasing a case of wine. For today, I am focusing on the everyday/value bottles. Consider this to be the $120-$150 range when all is said and done. Keep in mind that many retailers will take anywhere from 10-20% off of a purchase of a case of wine with the ability to mix and match how you see fit. Let's dive into some things to consider when building your case from a perspective of seeking value.

Find your brands:

As much as I love to show you something from a small artisanal producer from some remote corner of France, the fact is that your larger, well-known brands will be easy to come by. Additionally, depending on the size of the retail store, their purchasing power will dictate how low they can keep prices. So you might encounter that Alamos Malbec, Blackstone Merlot, Concha y Toro Chilean red blend for a very inexpensive price already, all of which make great house wines or something you can offer a guest at a party who is looking to have something familiar. You can score some of your favorite brands for as little as $7 per bottle in some places. However...

Include some lesser-known regions and grape varieties:

Know what Corbieres is? In context of this post, who cares? Just know that some great Cinsault-based pink wine is being made here for $12.

If you are shopping at a good store offering the combination of knowledgeable and friendly customer service, chances are high that the overwhelming majority of wines on the shelves will be at minimum, drinkable and at best, very exciting. So if you see a red wine from Portugal made with Touriga Nacional for $10, grab it. A rosé from Languedoc, France made with Cinsault for $12? Get it. A South African Chenin Blanc for $10? Go for it. There are tons of examples from Italy and Spain, too. Piedmont and Tuscany get tons of love (and accompanying higher prices to match) in Italy, but Puglia, Sicily, and the Veneto regions can frequently offer you significant value. Additionally, Spain still has an incredible quality-to-price ratio, maybe the best of any country right now. There is a ton to choose from.

Find "declassified" wines from a European producer:

Naming conventions and labeling rules for wines in Europe will often refer to a geography, which is most evident in the wines of France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. Lets say you have a producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a specific wine zone in the Rhône Valley of France with a set of rules for making wine. Chances are that the same producer might make a wine from a larger area, different grape varieties than are permitted in the "Grand Vin" of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or less stringent production rules to make a Côtes du Rhône wine, costing you a fraction of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Côtes du Rhône is a broader geographical area with more flexibility in rules for producing wines.

Another example comes from the Loire Valley. Sancerre's white wines are made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc in the Sancerre region. However, if the wine is made from vines outside of Sancerre, or don't adhere to technical aspects like vine age or yield control, then the wine might be labeled "Vin de France Sauvignon Blanc" such as the example below from Domaine de la Perriere.

Both wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the same property owner, but the Sancerre is costing you $25. The one labeled Sauvignon Blanc? $10. This is a great way to go value-hunting. It might take a little digging around and a bit of research, but finding this kind of information will help save you several dollars.

Don't forget sparkling wine!

Look, we can't drink Champagne all the time, nor should Champagne and other sparkling wines only be reserved for special occasions. A bottle of bubbly as part of your case is a must-have. Best of all, you can find a fruity sparkling wine like Prosecco, or you can find Cava (Spain's sparkling wine made using Champagne's process, but with native grape varieties) can often be found at a bargain. For less than $15, you can spot one of each without a problem. Then you can pop the cork anytime you see fit, because you will have a bottle on-hand and ready to go, special occasion to celebrate, or not.

Why don't we do this...let's take some of these wines and stick them in the box. Then we'll add a few more, total it up, and you will see how you can build your mixed case of goodies to take home. Prices are approximate, and I will use 10% as the case discount as a conservative estimate. These are all wines I have tried and would recommend to anyone looking for a solid variety pack case that includes many styles of wines.

Mionetto Il Prosecco Brut, $11, a simple, easy-drink bottle of fruity sparkler, great for casual parties and Mimosas.

Fonseca Twin Vines Vinho Verde, $8, Vinho Verde is a light, low-alcohol, slightly fizzy citrusy wine from the northeastern corner of Portugal.

La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc, $10, this is the declassified Sancerre from above

Cantine Paolini Sicilia Pinot Grigio, $10, this Sicilian Pinot Grigio has some flavor to it, with melon and tropical fruit.

Tormentoso Old Vine Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc, $13, try some Chenin Blanc as a Chardonnay alternative, plus a wine from South Africa. A region and a grape that deserves your love and attention.

Domaine Sainte Eugenie Corbieres Rose, $12, an unbelievably fruit-but-dry rose wine from southern France. Provence, for all of its delicate fruit and herbs that I really enjoy, does not have the fruit-forwardness of this wine.

Parolvini Barone Nero Veneto Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Malbec), $12, an interesting blend that includes the native northeastern Italian variety of Refosco, which has a leathery, violet-scented character. It plays so well with the deep, dark fruit of the other two grapes, and it's not every day you see Malbec being grown in Italy.

Azul Portugal Douro Red Blend, $11, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. All of these grapes go into Port wines, but when vinified as a dry wine, it gives you plenty of structure and fruit with a bit of smokiness.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec, $11, there is a proliferation of Argentine Malbecs out there, and for the money Bousquet delivers so well.

Bodegas Atalaya Almansa Laya Red Blend, $10, this is a blend of Monastrell (a powerful, dense, chewy high-alcohol red wine variety), and Garnacha Tintorera (one of the few red varieties whose pulp and juice is red also).

Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo Winemaker's Red Blend, $10, an easy-drinking staple in the large Chilean Concha y Toro winery's lineup. Fresh black fruit, licorice, and a touch of green bell pepper.

Gnarly Head 1924 Lodi Red Blend, $10, an opulent, blackberry jam and raisiny wine that is very soft on the palate.

Total for the 12 wines is $128. Take 10% off, and that's $115.20. Connecticut sales tax is 6.35%, so that gets us to a grand total of $122.52. That puts us in the lower range of what I categorized above. You are getting a nice spread of regions and grape varieties in this, too. Keep in mind that I have also listed these in order of how you might want to taste them if you were to do an absurd 12-bottle flight!

Hopefully, this gives you a great starting point in building your own case, but as always you know where to find me if you have questions. Good luck!

Ask Tony: To Chill Or Not To Chill?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

We are finally about to hit some real summer weather again. I find that when temperatures go up, the preferences for an alcoholic beverage are all over the map. Some just want an ice cold beer. Others like a cocktail (Gin and Tonic or a Margarita, anyone?). Perhaps a little vodka or Bourbon on the rocks on a muggy summer evening. There is really no argument here with any of those choices.

Then there is wine. White wine can provide a foil for the heat with a vibrant, refreshing quality. However, if you are outside grilling, higher alcohol, bolder red wines will make better partners with your food, even if it is not ideal for some in the warm weather. When I talk to fellow wine lovers, I am frequently asked how to treat them as far as temperature goes:

Should I chill this?

How long should I put this in the fridge?

Is it wrong to put an ice cube in this?

We don't ever chill red wine, do we?

Allow me to share a relevant story with you. Years ago, I went to one of my first WSET wine classes to be introduced to all of the basics of wine, including storage and service. I received two white wines and was instructed to smell, taste, and write down notes about flavors and aromas. One tasted of pears and apples and felt more acidic. The other sort of peachy and softer. When it was all said and done, it turns out both wines were the same exact wine (an Italian Pinot Grigio)...one served three degrees cooler than the other.

That was my first introduction to the importance of serving temperature; this is an aspect of wine drinking that should not be overlooked. Because of that experience, I completely understood why I was asked so many questions later on in my wine and spirits career.

There is such an enormous range of styles out there. Wines can be light or full-bodied. There are reds, whites, and rosés. Some are sparkling, others are fortified. Wines might be very high in acid, fruit, or tannin, and what about sweet wines? With seemingly infinite types of wine to choose from, you will discover that serving certain wines in a temperature range will maximize your sensory experience. Let's lay out some simple guidelines (with some of my favorite wines' labels sprinkled throughout:

White is cooler than red

Not more fashionable. Cooler in temperature. White wines in general are lighter in body than reds. There are also more high-acid white wines than reds. Reds have tannins that are not in white wines. If an acidic white wine is served too warm, it tastes flabby and boring. If a high-tannin red wine is served too cold, the mouth-puckering tannins are amplified, making the wine too astringent and tough. Generally speaking when in doubt, chill the white, keep the red out on the counter.

Aromatic wines of any color like the cold

Now, this is something that requires some exploration and familiarity (which I can help you with). Some grape varieties jump out of the glass at your nose, others are more restrained. For white wines, the Alsatian white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer all benefit from temperatures (43-46F). Sauvignon Blanc, white Burgundy/Old World Chardonnays, and Viognier also benefit in this temperature range, too.

Red wines like Gamay (Beaujolais) and Cabernet Franc (from New York or Loire Valley of France) are very fragrant and fruity and pay you back when served around 50-54F. These are also light in tannin, so no worries about astringency wrecking your palate. This temperature range also works well for many New World Chardonnays. Just stick a room temperature wine of these varieties in the fridge for 20-30 minutes and you will get close. 

Treat rosés like white wines

If you are serving rosés, treat them as a white wine. Rosés are just red grapes that were treated in the way white wines are produced. Cold temperatures bring out the strawberry/watermelon aromas commonly found in these wines.

Low-to-medium tannin wines should feel cool to the touch

Pinot Noir can show itself light and juicy (in the vain of Gamay above), or full-bodied and chewy. Get to know what type of Pinot Noir you are working with. Fancy Premier or Grand Cru Burgundy shouldn't be served too cool, but casual California, Oregon, New Zealand or Chilean Pinot Noir should get 15-20 minutes in the fridge. Basic Chianti, inexpensive Bordeaux, and Côtes du Rhône wines are other examples of wines that should feel cool to the touch when you grab the bottle.

"Room temperature" for high-tannin reds

By room temperature, we are talking 64F-68F and that's on the very cool side of what most people find bearable in their homes. However, this is the temperature that wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo-based wines show their best. The tannins feel soft and mature at this temperature and makes for a better tasting experience than throwing these in the cooler. If you have a wine fridge or cellar that you keep around 58F, just take out the wine and set it on the counter for 30 minutes and you should be good to go. If it is a particularly hot day and you are drinking outside, there is nothing wrong with throwing one of these wines into an ice bucket.

Chill sweet white wines

Sweet white wines suffer from the same issue as the high acid white wines when served too warm, but throw in the residual sugar that gives the impression of a sticky, cloying sensation that makes these wines not as enjoyable as they should be. Sweet Rieslings (Finger Lakes, Germany, Austria, etc), and Chenin Blanc (Loire) will taste so much better when served cold. The acids come to life and balance the fruitiness and sweetness.

Others

Champagne and other sparkling wines should be well-chilled. Fruity sparklers like Prosecco and Cava in particular benefit the most from being in 40F temperature, while most non-vintage Champagne should be a few degrees warmer.

Fino and Manzanilla Sherry, Tawny Ports all should be chilled as well.

Sweet red wines like Ruby and Vintage Ports will have some tannins, so keep these at room temperature.

One other tip: to quickly chill wine, make sure your bucket has both water and ice in it. The laws of heat transfer will get your wine chilled in about 15 minutes. It will take two or three times longer in just a bucket of ice.

Here's what you can do for your flight. Pick up a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc and a Tuscan or California red blend. Taste each one at room temperature. Then stick the bottles in your fridge for 30-60 minutes and see how the wines change if you think temperature doesn't matter.

Just do me one favor: if you are going to drop an ice cube into your wine, give me a heads-up so I can look the other way. I won't tell anyone if you do.

The Obligatory "Wines To Go With Your Barbecue" Post

Memorial Day weekend has often been called the "unofficial start to summer," but something else happens over these upcoming few days. We are also told that we are at the start of "grilling season." Now, look...I will be the first to admit that I was very lazy about firing up the grill throughout winter, but with our most recent heat wave that struck at a house with no central air conditioning, cooking outside was a must in the heart of spring. For the grilling and barbecue die-hards, they are out on their decks charring animal proteins (and maybe a vegetable or two) around the clock, day after day, season after season.

With that said, Memorial Day weekend is the first one on the calendar that makes sense for larger-scale outdoor entertaining, so chances are high that you may be hosting or attending a day of boozery with gas flames or charcoal embers being your chief heat source for food preparations. Along with your choice of food, you need some fine libations to enjoy. Even though cracking open a cold beer while tending to fire is very rewarding, if you are reading this blog you are likely a wine drinker and you need some answers on what to buy for your gathering. Fortunately for you, I have some easy guidelines to follow.

Stay casual

Now is not the time to bust out the fancy luxury wine (at least, not until all your guests leave). In many cases, the larger the gathering is, the simpler the food will be. That classed growth Bordeaux isn't going with your casual foods and the subtleties of the wine will be lost. Keep things simple; there are tons of wines out there less than $20 that will deliver.

Bold is beautiful

Grilling leads to quick caramelization of food. Charred beef, pork, and chicken adds a lot of flavor intensity. If you are playing with game birds, lamb, bison, or venison, you are dealing with very strongly flavored meat. If charcoal enters the equation, then intense smoke imparts your food. If you are grilling vegetables, their sugars caramelize very easily. All of this amplified flavor calls for complementary, strongly flavored wines. Washington State wines, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, California oaked Chardonnays and Zinfandels, Chilean Carménère, and southern French white and red blends are all great options for big, bold flavors.

Consider geography/culture

Vegetarian? Don't move to Argentina.

Keep in mind that National Braai Day is September 24th! Don't lock away your barbecue after Labor Day!

Argentina is known for its beef and culture of cooking meat over open fire. South Africa is known for braai, which in Afrikaans translates to "to grill." Many parts of Australia have great weather to cook and entertain outdoors year-round. Seek out Argentine Malbec, nearly any South African wine, and Australian Shiraz

Think pink

What's great about rosé is that it can be a great unifier of many foods on the table. This holds true further if you have a lot of cold salads on the table (potato salad, pasta salad, green salad). Rosé's refreshing qualities won't overwhelm lighter foods and its fruitiness can generally stand up to any meat not named steak or lamb.

If all else fails...cheat

Sparkling wine is the easiest work-around if you don't know which direction to head in. Go with something fairly neutral in flavor like Cava or Prosecco. The bubbles and refreshment it offers acts like seltzer, which will cleanse your palate. The beauty of taking a sparkling wine means you can make plenty of cocktails, too.

So how about some choices for you? This is by no means an exhaustive list, because there are so many ways you can go. Instead, it is a way to find something to go with some of the basics that you might have on the table.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay ($14): Columbia Crest is a large brand from Washington, but I have to say if you are looking for an easy match with grilled chicken or a sturdy white fish, the buttery rich texture, tropical fruit and nuttiness will do each of those dishes justice. Keep in mind that there is an unoaked version of this that costs a few dollars less, so read your labels!

King Estate Acrobat Rosé of Pinot Noir ($14): Straightforward and fruity, you get all the red fruit in this (watermelon, strawberries, and tart cherries). This will be a versatile wine to handle white fish with a salsa or herbs on it, or even a simply seasoned salmon. Get your side dishes in, and you'll be all set with this one!

Lapostolle "Casa" Grand Selection Carménère ($15): Juicy and spicy, this Chilean red berry-scented wine has a fruity/savory finish and is a nice alternative to Merlot. A fine match with a burger!

Alexander Valley Vineyards "Temptation" Zinfandel ($13): If you are cooking something "low and slow," such as baby back ribs, pork shoulder, or even brisket, this is what I want. Jammy, peppery, and earthy flavors provide enough character to counter the smokiness of your meat.  

Thorne Clarke Milton Park Shiraz ($12): Loaded with dark plums, chocolate, and spice, there is a ton of flavor at a great value. Great with steaks and lamb chops.

Tall Tales Of Boozery: Summer Is The Only Time For Rosé

A lot of myths are floating around out there, many of which are just trivial common misconceptions. They don't necessarily matter, but still these things are just untrue beliefs: bulls hate the color red (nope, they're color blind) and Napoleon is short (5'7" was above average height in France). Others can impact health: don't wake up a sleepwalker (no, don't let them unknowingly hurt themselves) and alcohol will "warm you up" (alcohol actually drops your core temperature). Even "Fake News" has somehow become a thing (and a rabbit hole that I am not going down here).

Then we have the inexplicable myths, and one in the adult beverage business in particular that gets to me: rosé wine is a "summer" wine. You might be saying, "Hey...aren't you the guy who just gave me whiskies to drink when the seasons change?" or "Didn't you just tell us Grüner Veltliner is a good wine for springtime?" Why dispel a myth about seasonal drinking?

Yes and yes, and I did just shamelessly redirect you to two of my other pages to remind you that I did refer to some of these items. You know what? I'm guilty as charged. I tend to fall into this seasonal pattern of drinking, but to be fair I never said it was the right way or the only way to drink.

By the way, I do understand the allure of these pink wines when it's warm outside! Rosé plays well with a lot of different foods. Rosé's fruitiness is enhanced when chilled and has a thirst-quenching quality (even if we should be hydrating with water). You can turn cheap versions into pitchers of sangria.

However, rosé wines can be seductive at Valentine's Day. They can pull the Thanksgiving table together. They can work at a cocktail party on a random Saturday in October or as a killer sparkling wine with tapas at a restaurant on a night out in January. They work with the tricky rich and salty combination of foods like baked ham or "green" foods.

I believe that this "rosé is for summer" myth sprouted once rosé from the Provence region of France became very popular. Provençal rosé is light, dry, delicate, and delicious with light appetizers, salads, and seafood...things we tend to eat more of on warm days. The Provence style is an easy crowd-pleaser as you can satisfy a range of palates for a gathering. But what if you eat light year-round? What if you are a ravenous carnivore, whether you are outside grilling or pan-searing indoors? How about those winter holiday parties? If you are anything like my family in December, you would think we have 75 people coming over. There is more than light and delicate rosé out there.

Quick educational tangent: most times rosé wine is white winemaking with red grape varieties. Gently crush grapes, let the white juice run out into a tank, allow a short period of skin contact (to achieve desired color), and drain pink juice to a stainless steel tank ready for fermentation.

So maybe it's time I re-evaluate my own wine buying and drinking choices. Who says you can't have rosé at any time of year? Now is the perfect time to get tasting all the styles of rosé wine. Your retailer is getting them in on their shelves. You can ask for something you don't see and a good shop will be able to turn your request around in a day or two (assuming the distributor has the wine in stock or available to sell in your state of residence).

Let's stop making "rosé in summer" like "don't wear white after Labor Day." Here is a recommendation for several of styles of rosé out there, including a little bubbly. Just make sure you and I keep the momentum going together through September and beyond.

Mont Marçal Cava Rosado ($18)

This is a sparkling wine made from Trepat, a red Catalan grape variety that is well-suited for rosé winemaking thanks to its berry-scented fruitiness. This example has a strawberry jam on toast flavor that would make a great counterpoint to salty-umami appetizers featuring anchovies or capers.

Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence ($15)

A classic, moderately-priced rosé that we have consistent success with at the store. This is a traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre that balances fresh red berry fruit with acidity. The ruby red grapefruit note in this wine is enhanced with a green salad with a basic vinaigrette. 

Adelsheim Willamette Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir ($17)

Now we start moving into wines with more body and texture. Adelsheim makes exquisite red wines from Pinot Noir, but their rosé bursts with strawberries and nectarines. The balance of body and acidity leads to food versatility and is a great match with more substantial dishes like poached chicken, baked ham or even a roast turkey.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec-Cabernet Rosado ($12)

Bousquet's wines come from vineyards situated at absurd altitudes (over 4,000 feet above sea level), leading to grapes with high acid and deep color. The Malbec gives soft ripe berry fruit while the Cabernet contributes lively cherry fruit. I like this with a sturdy fish, such as tuna or swordfish with soft green herbs, or roast pork.

Peter Zemmer Alto Adige Lagrein ($19)

Lagrein is a variety that thrives in the northeast of Italy, giving wines with intense violet aromatics and dark berry fruit. When made as a rosé in this example from Peter Zemmer, the flavors are more cherry and raspberry-scented with rose petals and wild herbs. There is even a slight tannic bitterness that adds to the overall flavor. Our salesperson described this as a "steak wine" and I can't say I disagree! This is a perfect rosé to enjoy with red meat.