The Waves Of Whisky Have Hit Me Hard
It amazes me how fast the switch flips from the slower-paced summer months to the breakneck speed of September. It's not just school year adjustments, but all the fall extracurricular activity quickly spikes up. Additionally, my life as a professional drinker means there is less time for actual drinking and more time spent running classes and promoting events. Along with that, just staying current with the world of adult beverages by reading up on certain topics or even meeting with folks in the industry can present a different set of challenges. Fortunately, the start of autumn led me to a whole lot of time spent studying, learning, presenting, and even tasting whisky.
What can I say...of all the beautiful spirits available, I can't help but profess my love of distilled grains. I have so many choices to get cozy with, and with so many options at our disposal, there is bound to be one you like...even if you claim to not like whisky. This theory could easily be put to the test based on my Mastering Single Malts series that I am leading at Divine Wine. Last Thursday night, we spent a session covering all of Scotland's regions of whisky production. In the class, we discussed the stylistic differences and how flavor and aroma are impact by techniques used in each of the region's distilleries. We also covered environmental differences, such as a distillery's proximity to the coastline, water and peat sources, and so much more.
If you need a reminder, the term "single malt Scotch" refers to a single distillery's whisky produced from 100% malted barley and aged at least three years in old oak barrels. All aspects of production must take place in Scotland. To think that this is all you need to follow to call your product single malt Scotch, how do we end up with a gigantic range of selections with different styles, quality levels, and price points?
We had an interesting lesson, even some debate, as to whether it is a region or an individual distillery's character that dictates a style of single malt Scotch whisky. Typically, the regions have been lumped into certain "flavor camps" over the years, but honestly you can have a heavily peated Highland whisky or an unpeated Islay whisky. It all comes down to identifying a "house style," which is a flavor expectation each time you sip your dram. Along the same lines, a Champagne producer will have an identifyable style every time you taste its sparkling wine. The distilleries and Champagne houses are building unique brands.
For your reference, here are the regions we are dealing with when it comes to Scotch, and what their whisky typically tastes like.
Speyside: the highest concentration of distilleries are located in this subsection of the Highlands. Lots of water sources and and variations in the landscape lead to a wide range of styles, but generally speaking Speyside Scotch can show up either fruity or malty. Southern Speyside tends to have softer, lighter flavors.
Lowlands: Gained a reputation for lighter, more delicate spirits as this was a center of grain/blended Scotch production. Single malts evolved this way, too, and the Lowlands should be given plenty of respect for its fragrant maltiness.
Highlands: A large physical geography with many variations. Coastal distilleries feel the salt air, particularly in the Western Highlands, leading to rich and briny whiskies. Southern Highlands show more "green" flavors with delicate aromas. Eastern Highland Scotch has a lot of flavor and structure, meaning they can stand up to long aging. The Northern Highlands are fruity and full-bodied. This is a region where possibly more than any it pays to get to know the individual distilleries when searching for a style you like.
Islay (EYE-lah): An ancient island where peat dominates thanks to it being a traditional fuel (as opposed to the mainland having access to coal). Scotch whisky is generally bold and fiery from here. This is Scotch for the IPA beer-lover thanks to its assertiveness.
Islands: Technically part of the Highlands, whiskies can be similar to Islay in style as peat is often used, but not all the time. Salty, seaweed flavors are noticeable, and peat (particular from the northern Islands of Orkney and Skye) is less aggressive, but smoky. Other islands, like Jura, or fragrant and piney without being peaty. There is no uniform style for an "island" whisky, but each island has distinct character.
Campbeltown: Located on a peninsula, this town was once a major hub of malt whisky production before a high number of distilleries closed due to lack of demand for their heavy, oily, complex whiskies. Today, the few distilleries remaining have carved out a niche with an old-school, rich pre-Prohibition style.
That's what you are dealing with in a nutshell and is a great starting point for you when you explore the regions of Scotland. If you still need a starting point to work off of, here is what we tasted last week! These are all considered flagship products that are typical of each distillery's style. There is something for everyone in this range of products.
Glenlivet 12 Year Old, Speyside: This is the top-selling single malt in the U.S., and I can understand why. It is gentle, soft, lightly fruity with green apple flavors, and it has a floral fragrance that makes this easy to enjoy. It's an easy one to keep in your bar.
Cragganmore 12 Year Old, Speyside: This hits the other end of the spectrum for Speyside malts, with rich, nutty flavors. Each time you stick your nose in the glass, you smell something new. Berries, pears, herbs, and walnuts all show up in this dram and has a long, lingering finish.
Auchentoshan 12 Year Old, Lowlands: Citrusy with breakfast cereal/baked oatmeal flavors. Vanilla, ginger, and nutmeg make this whisky taste like fall in a glass.
Dalmore 12 Year Old, Northern Highlands: Rich and full-bodied with dried fruit flavors (figs, dates) and candied oranges. With sherry casks involved, you can taste the nutty, saline flavors on the finish, but still wrapped up in the dried fruit flavor.
Springbank 10 Year Old, Campbeltown: Oily texture but intensely aromatic. It has a delicate texture with pears and apples, but also has a smoky maltiness on the palate. Finishes like apple pie after the smoke subsides. This is almost like drinking all of the regions in one glass.
Lagavulin 16 Year Old, Islay: Bold, fiery and intense, Lagavulin is a bonfire on the beach, with salty, almost bacony flavors. When you taste the whisky a second time, there is tropical fruit flavor underneath all the peat smoke. One to drink in front of a roaring fire.