Flight School

These past few days here in the northeast have felt very autumn-like; long pants and/or fleeces in mid-to-late July aren't out of the question for a day, but for several days? That's a little excessive and it's keeping the beaches quiet here in New England. All of those zesty, light and fresh white and rosé wines I have been sharing with you suddenly don't seem too appealing.

So today's installment of Fun To Say, Fun To Drink takes us to Southern Italy, which has felt the influence of Greece since the 8th Century, B.C. Present-day Southern Italy was referred to as "Oenotria" by the early Greeks, whose meaning refers to the sea of vineyards they encountered when arriving here. As a result, there is a rich history of native Italian vines, along with those Greek in origin and the one we focus on today is called Aglianico [ahl-YAH-nee-ko].

RIP, Denis Dubourdieu. The wine world lost a dude who made a major impact in Bordeaux's winemaking, and who had a global understanding of viticulture and winemaking, including his reverence for Aglianico.

The late Denis Dubourdieu, legendary wine producer and Professor of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, referred to Aglianico as "probably having the longest consumer history of all (grape varieties)." During the height of the Roman Empire, references to the red Aglianico were made in the works of Pliny the Elder, where the grape was part of the ancient wine called Falernian, which may have included the white grape Greco. Aglianico was consumed by military commanders, scholars, and nobles, whose vines thrived in the volcanic soils of the Campania and Basilicata regions. What was it about Aglianico that was so appealing, even a couple of millenia ago?

From a more modern standpoint, let's take a look at what Aglianico is. It is a grape rich in structural components; high in acid, tannin, and deep, dark fruit concentration. Aglianico also shows a smoky/savory quality that adds an extra distinct layer of complexity. As great as the Nebbiolo-based wines of Barolo and Barbaresco or the Sangiovese-based wines of Tuscany are, they can't give you the flavor and aroma combination you get from Aglianico (of course, you aren't getting the immense structure of Nebbiolo or the leathery/earthiness of aged Sangiovese, but that's another story for another day).

Additionally, if Nebbiolo is the great grape of the north in Barolo and Barbaresco, and Sangiovese rules the center of Italy with Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, and other Tuscan regions, Aglianico is king of the south, most notably in Taurasi in Campania. These regions all contribute to their signature grape variety's ability to age for decades in the bottle. Of course, if you aren't looking to spend tons of money or wait several years for the wine to hit its optimal drinking point, Basilicata's only DOCG-level wine, Aglianico del Vulture, represents a better entry point for the grape. Vineyards are situated right up against an extinct volcano at Mt. Vulture in what is quite the dramatic landscape. Many examples of Aglianico del Vulture can be found for less than $20.

Despite southern Italy having many economically improverished parts of the country, places like Basilicata are capable of producing wines fit for kings and queens. Image credit: Wine Spectator

While the overwhelming majority of Aglianico comes from these southern Italian regions, you can also find some examples in Australia and the American Southwest, notably Texas and Arizona. The common link among these winemaking regions? Hot, sunny, dry weather during the growing season. Without the sun and heat to ripen Aglianico, it would taste aggressively harsh and bitter with green leafy flavors instead of the ripe black plum and black cherry flavors that it should have.

The good news here is that there are some high-quality examples out there for you to try. I have never sampled any of the Aglianico wines outside of Italy, so I haven't included any below. However, if you do see some in your travels, give them a try. In the meantime I have these three that are worth seeking out.

Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania ($17): Here is a great way to get introduced to the Aglianico grape. This winery has always produced steady examples of native grape varieties throughout the south, and this wine is no different. Very approachable with gentle tannins and some red raspberry flavors and violets on the nose.

Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture Riserva ($20): Very ripe black cherry fruit with anise, nutmeg, black pepper, and earthy notes. This wine spent two years in barrel, as noted by the "Riserva" on the label. This is released ready to drink on purchase and needs no further cellaring, but if you wish to do so, you can for a good 5-7 years.

Donnachiara Taurasi ($30): Packed with blackberry fruit, mushrooms, earth, and smoke, this intense and structured Taurasi is a great deal at this price. Chewy and full-bodied, if you have the patience to let this evolve in the bottle for a decade, you will be rewarded. If you don't have that kind of time, this is very enjoyable now...just give it an hour or more to breathe and open up.