Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Ribolla Gialla

One of my favorite types of events we do at the Divine Wine Emporium is our guest speaker programs, and the night becomes even more exciting when our speaker visits from a winery from out of the country. This is the case tonight when we have Matteo Livon of Azienda Agricola Livon coming to present his family’s wines in the classroom (which, if you are in Niantic, you should absolutely go!).

While tasting the wines is a terrific experience, getting to know how the winery was started and learning characteristics of the vineyards that lead to the wines being awesome is incredibly fulfilling. I especially enjoy it when a wine producer is working with ancient native grape varieties. Such is the case with Ribolla Gialla [ruh-BOL-uh jee-AH-luh], the white grape whose first recorded evidence of existence was documented back in the year 1289 in the northeastern Italy’s Friuli region. Royalty demanded wines made from Ribolla Gialla. Medieval government decreed that the wine shall not be adulterated in any way. Its pure, delicate floral aromas and golden color certainly deserve to be preserved.

However, phylloxera once again reared its ugly head and wiped out vineyards in the region. In order for vineyard owners to recoup their losses over those years, they had to replant with what would sell in the global trade: Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. By the end of the 20th century, less than 1% of all Friulian vineyard land was planted with Ribolla Gialla. Fortunately, renewed interest in the native wines of Friuli and surrounding northeastern Italian regions helped rescue Ribolla Gialla from extinction.

Ribolla Gialla is most often bottled on its own, but you can find it in blends with Pinot Grigio or Friulano. Winemaking is typically done in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures to keep those delicate flavors and aromas intact, and the wines are usually light in body with a zing of acidity (keep this in mind as we head into springtime). However, producers such as Livon push the limits by fermenting a portion of the grape in small barriques to give a fuller, creamier texture; Livon’s “Solarco” blend of Ribolla Gialla and Friulano showcases this profile so well.

Additionally, if you want to nerd out even more than simply seeking out Ribolla Gialla, look for it in a wine from Slovenia, which shares a border with Friuli and will likely be labeled as “Rebula;” Nando is the producer you would most likely encounter for about $25. If you have the access to Slovenian wines, go for it! You can also find a New York example from the Channing Daughters winery on Long Island, also around $25.

When it comes to food pairings, standalone unoaked Ribolla Gialla is great with oysters, herbed shrimp, and delicate white fish. Blends with Friulano and oaked examples let you play with grilled seafood, sturdier fish, and chicken. It is also great for someone looking to try an Italian white wine that is not Pinot Grigio.

Price ranges tend to have a fairly wide spread; the entry level starts around $10 and can jump all the way up to $50 for wines from prime vineyard sites. Here’s a flight for you to try that I feel will give you maximum enjoyment and value:

Le Vigne di Zamo Colli Orientali del Friuli Ribolla Gialla ($11): Light, unoaked, and fragrant, this is a great way to get introduced to Ribolla Gialla from a well-respected traditional producer in the heartland of Friulian vineyards. The nose is youthful with lemon zest and apple along a touch of floral notes. Refreshing and lemony on the palate. Perfect aperitif.

Villa Parens Collio Ribolla Gialla Ruttars ($15): This example has a little more body and weight to it than the Zamo above. There is also more of a stone fruit (peach, apricot) flavor profile rather than citrus and the terroir is notable in this wine with stony/minerally character. Villa Parens is run by the Puiatti family, who have been mainstays in northeastern Italy since 1967 and believe in the philosophy that great care in the vineyard and the absence of aging wines in wood leads to the purest expression of their wines.

Azienda Agricola Livon Collio Solarco ($25): 80% of this Friulano-Ribolla Gialla blend is fermented in stainless steel tanks while the remainder is fermented in small barrels, leading to a textured and complex wine. Fresh oranges, vanilla cream, anise, baked bread…it is like drinking breakfast! The anise note pops on the nose, while the finish on the palate is almondy with a lift of acidity.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Nerello Mascalese

As I have finally got into a better habit of posting more here this summer, a lot of topics I cover have to do with beating the heat. We have talked of white and rosé wines, white spirits, aged spirits with tropical flavors, margaritas...all "seasonally appropriate" drinks, right?

Well, guess what? There is a group of you that likes none of these things! There is a chance I have not been as inclusive as I should be, and as much as I tend to be a "seasonal" drinker it is also good to change things up. Keep things fresh and exciting. Go contrarian every so often. That's why today we change it up by discussing a unique native Italian red grape variety that rolls off the tongue the way Otto (Kevin Kline, pictured above) spoke nonsensical Italian in A Fish Called Wanda: Nerello Mascalese [nuh-RELL-oh mahs-cah-LAY-zay].

That's a mouthful of a grape, isn't it? In more ways than one. Not only is it a lot to say, but a lot to get your senses around, too. The first thing to mention about Nerello Mascalese is that it only grows on the southern island of Sicily, and more specific in the region known as Etna. Yes, it in fact takes its name from the active volcano of Mount Etna. All of the vineyards wrap around the southern and eastern base of the volcano, allowing maximum exposure to the Mediterranean sunshine. However, to prevent scorching the grapes, vineyards are situated at higher altitude to offer a cooling effect, particularly at night, which allows the grapes to preserve natural acidity.

Nerello Mascalese makes a rather "manly" wine...meaty and maybe even a little sweaty.

The resulting red wines made from Nerello Mascalese are powerful, bold, and smoky. Red berry fruits are present, but there's also accompanying tobacco and black licorice character. There is also a chewy, dense, meaty quality, almost beef jerky-like, that makes you think the wine has evolved in the bottle quickly, but it is just the complex nature of the grape. Nerello Mascalese makes up a minimum of 80% of any wine labeled "Etna Rosso" with the remainder typically its sister variety Nerello Capuccio (a grape that gives deeply-colored and full-bodied wines).

Nerello Mascalese is definitely not for pairing with fish. Especially goldfish. Image credit: IMDB.com

Etna Rosso wines are not for delicacy; this is the opposite end of the spectrum from the subject matter we have covered lately. However, if you are charcoal-grilling or smoking some red meat with Italian herbs...Nerello Mascalese will stand up to it easily.

I will admit, the wines are not cheap; the grapes simply require Sicily's climate to properly ripen grapes. You actually don't want to go too cheap, or the wine will taste very astringent and even bitter. You will easily start at $20 to get introduced to these wines, but if bold, tannic, and meaty is your style it will be worth it.

I have previously discussed a rosé that gives you all of the fruit and none of the overt savoriness, and it will get you there for just $12 or $13, thanks to minimal handling to help keep the costs down. However, here are two red wines to seek based on Nerello Mascalese that are worth your time.

Calabretta Vigne Vecchie ($25). The vines are anywhere from 60-80 years; vines of that age give very dense and concentrated fruit. The wine spends over three years in neutral casks to help round the wine out. Because of the high-octane nature of this wine, it further spends time in Calabretta's cellars after bottling to allow all of the structure and fruit to harmonize. Packed with berries and cured meat, you might even notice a hint of tar (which sounds crazy, but trust me here). This is a very traditional expression of Nerello Mascalese.

Calcagno Etna Rosso Arcuria ($29). For a more modern take on Nerello Mascalese, try this expression from Calcagno. This wine spends 18 months in French oak barrels, imparting a wide range of baking spices (cloves, nutmeg) while still retaining raspberry and cherry fruit flavors.

P.S. I do hope you have seen A Fish Called Wanda...Kevin Kline's portrayal of Otto is the funniest non-lead character in cinema history, and I will fight you about it.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Picpoul de Pinet

We are smack-dab in the middle of summer. This time of year is fantastic for experimenting and exploring beverages of all kinds. Cocktails of all flavors, aromas, and colors are probably giving you satisfying refreshment. The beer drinkers are loving the white ales, hefeweizens, and IPAs, all of which give you the exotic tropical fruit and zesty citrus flavors. When it comes to wine, I know that I have been acting as a rosé champion lately, but honestly an unoaked, dry style of any color will have bright, fresh fruit flavors that pair wonderfully with a warm summer evening on the patio. So that brings me to a simple, casual white wine that hails from the gorgeous Mediterranean coastline of France: Picpoul de Pinet [PEEK-pool duh pin-AY].

Picpoul is one of those grapes that you just don't find anywhere except for the Languedoc region in southern France, except for a handful of outliers. It loves the warm, dry climate, as well as the 300+ sunny days per year in the Languedoc. Picpoul grapes are prone to mildew, so cool, humid parts of the world won't allow for fully healthy grapes. Hot areas like southern Spain or countries of the southern hemisphere would essentially "bake" the acid and delicate flavors right out of the grapes. This is why Picpoul is right at home in southern France.

On our honeymoon, The Greatest Wife In The World and I stayed further East of the Picpoul de Pinet wine region in Provence, but I wouldn't be surprised if its wine ended up in our carafe when we ordered the "House Wine." (Image credit: Laithwaite's UK)

Something else to love about Picpoul is that it is very inexpensive. You will find many examples right at the $10 price point. It ripens so easily at its homeland and requires minimal handling or oak barrel treatment, that it simply does not cost much to produce...and your wallet wins because of that. Some producers might use neutral barrels to add some texture and soften the acids of Picpoul, but this is not common. You typically want to find the most recent vintage as Picpoul should be consumed within a year or two of the vintage (there is plenty of 2017 wines that need a home right now).

The traditional bottle for Picpoul de Pinet

Picpoul sounds like a little French sprite has come to offer you a magic elixir to beat the heat or match with raw oysters. It's a fun summertime wine that should not be overlooked when you are looking to restock your wine fridge. Picpoul is also a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio when you are looking for something different. The traditional bottle is in the longer "flute" style bottle, which most customers associating with sweet German Rieslings, but rest assured these wines don't show any perceptible sweetness. I have some examples for you to try. There are many small-production producers that will be worth trying, but these three should be available in most markets due to their solid distribution networks.

La Chapelle du Bastion ($10, Imported by Monsieur Touton): Crisp, clean, and lemony with a touch of minerality. You don't need any more details than that. Simply refreshing.

Moulin de Gassac Picpoul de Pinet ($12, Imported by Winebow): If you are looking for a Picpoul with more flesh and texture to it, look no further than Domaine Gassac, a well-respected wine producer in southern France. Fruit flavors tend more towards peaches and nectarines rather than citrus, but it is still unoaked and made with organic grapes.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Picpoul Blanc, Paso Robles ($27, price direct from winery website): I offer this one up to show you how a winery can stretch the limits with the Picpoul grape, as well as a non-French example. This wine has more of a tropical fruit profile when compared to the previous two, with ginger and herbs accompanying the fruit. Paso Robles in general is doing lots of interesting work with the white Rhône and Languedoc varieties, and Tablas Creek has stepped up when it comes to the Picpoul grape. A fine partner with exotically spiced Thai-style seafoods

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Dolcetto

I spent plenty of time honing my skills by coming to trade events hosted here by Vias Imports. Image credit: Marriott

It's been a little while since I took the time to shine the spotlight on a grape for you to be introduced to in your wine-drinking adventures. As always, I try to tie these wines into some of my own experiences, and today will be no different. Let me take you to my early days of trying to figure out Italian wine. One of the first things I did when making the change from the tech sector to the alcohol business was to find opportunities to pour wines at trade shows. If there would ever be opportunities to get the combined practical experiences of wine service and knowledge, working a grand portfolio tasting for an importer or distributor would be the perfect place to do it (if you are thinking of getting into the industry, I recommend you do the same).

So twice a year, I would head to New York City's Marriott Marquis to pour wines for Vias Imports, an outstanding importer of (predominantly) Italian wines. Much of my experience with them would be in northern Italy, where I was hit with an incredible array of long-lived wines, unique local varieties, and some interesting cultural crossover with border countries like Austria, Croatia, and France. Yet there will always be one day that will stick out in my mind when I think of these days working a table for five hours straight: my meeting with winemaker Orlando Pecchenino.

Spending five hours with Orlando Pecchenino shaped my understanding of winemaking, in general and Dolcetto, in particular. Image credit: Tom Hyland

I found out I was assigned to work with Pecchenino mere minutes before the show started. I spent a lot of time researching his wines, along with the wines of fellow Piemontese producer Elvio Cogno. Anytime I can have access to a winemaker of premier products, I am going to make the most of my time learning from him or her. I listened to Pecchenino talk about his vineyards and how they are organized. I learned why he plants one grape variety in a block of vineyards and others elsewhere. I got to understand how he determines ageability of wines made from grapes in specific vineyard blocks. While it was great to nerd out to all of this, the thing that really stood out that afternoon was his passion for a single grape variety: Dolcetto [dole-CHAY-toe].

The only thing missing from this picture is a glass of Dolcetto. Image credit: Martha Stewart

Dolcetto is a very popular wine in the Piedmont area of Italy. While Nebbiolo gets all the praise and Barbera is the workhorse, Dolcetto is the choice for the local drinking establishments with large plates of antipasti and other casual meals. It makes wines with very deep color with some examples almost looking like blue ink in your glass. Dolcetto might mean "little sweet one," but these wines are not made into a sweet style; they are bold, aromatic, and finish very dry, but are fruity with a slight tannic/bitter edge to them. The most likely appellation you will encounter with Dolcetto wines is "Dolcetto d'Alba," which you will find from many Barolo and Barbaresco producers as the Dolcetto vineyards will overlap these communes. Since Dolcetto grapes can ripen very quickly, a Piedmont wine producer might plant Dolcetto grapes at higher altitude than their Nebbiolo grapes (destined for Barolo, for instance) to slow down ripening and help preserve what little inherent acidity the grape has.

While Alba has some recognition for Dolcetto, other grapes like Barbera and Nebbiolo can thrive there to make quality wines. On the other hand, the nearby small town of Dogliani is exclusively devoted to Dolcetto in Piedmont. Producers in Dogliani might own vineyards outside the area to make Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera-based wines, but the focus is on Dolcetto here. With Dolcetto wines from Alba being fragrant and approachable in youth, Dogliani wines are more powerful and structured, many of which hold incredible aging potential. In fact, at the event with Orlando Pecchenino, he opened a magnum of his entry-level stainless steel-fermented "San Luigi" that was a decade old and I can only explain the flavor as red and black cherries wrapped in leather and Italian herbs. It was incredible. I can only imagine what his oak-aged "Siri d'Jermu" (12 months in large oak barrel) and "Bricco Botti" (2 years in old oak barrel) would taste like after 10 years in bottle.

Dolcetto offers so much for your senses, showing itself in many styles. If you have some cash laying around to spend on wine, I highly encourage you to try Pecchenino's three Dolcetto wines as a flight; it will run you close to $100 for the three wines. But if the budget is tighter, or you can't get access to the whole range, I have three wines for you to try that you should be able to find at your local shop.

G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba ($15): A perfect intro to the grape, this Dolcetto is loaded with blackberries and smoked meat flavor with just a touch of tannins and pleasant bitter edge on the finish.

Elio Grasso Dolcetto d'Alba dei Grassi ($19): An outstanding Barolo producer, this is a great way to get to know Grasso's powerful styles. Deep purple, almost opaque in the glass, this is very full-bodied with a ripe plum fruit that is similar to New World Merlot's flavor and plushness. However, the herbaceous and peppery notes are the major difference here with noticeable tannins.

Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi ($22): This has to be in your lineup to get to know Dogliani. Stainless steel fermented, the wine has lively cherry flavors with violet, rose, and smoke. Acidity and tannin are more noticeable compared to the other two wines. Finishes savory, but fresh. 

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Falanghina

It has been a while since we touched on a new grape variety! Hell, my own posting scheduling has been irregular as I enjoy as much of the summer as I can before it leaves us for another year. Despite my slacking, I do have another installment of Fun To Say, Fun To Drink to share with you, and today's topic touches on another grape that carries some personal significance.

With fewer gray hairs and wrinkles, here I am pouring some killer Italian Pinot Noir at a Vias Imports tasting, ca. 2010.

Waaaay back in the day when I was looking to break into the alcohol industry, I saw an opportunity to help out at a trade show for an Italian wine importer called Vias Imports. As I was in the throes of studying wine, I thought, "could there be a better way to learn about Italian wines than to jump in and pour wines at a table?" The answer was an easy "yes" for me, so I went to New York City's Marriott Marquis. After a five-hour blitz of buyers, retailers, restauranteurs, and other "who's who" types of the beverage industry, I not only survived busted corks (yes, this happened on the first pull of a new wine), and hundreds of glasses shoved in front of me, I had successfully learned a good dozen of native Italian grape varieties.

As a thank you from Vias, they sent me on me way with some money and six bottles of wine! Hey, not a bad gig! Two of the bottles from their portfolio came from a producer Terredora di Paolo, which included a bottle of Aglianico and a bottle of white wine called Falanghina [fah-lahn-GHEE-nah].

Falanghina was not one of the varieties I had worked with that day, but I was excited to taste it. Southern Italy is generally hot during peak growing season, so I understood how red wine grapes would thrive in the Campania region. But white grapes? Would the climate be too harsh? Would the acidity and freshness just get baked out of the grapes in the vineyards? Remember...this was a period of time when I knew next to nothing about the wine grapes of the world.

As it turns out, I learned that Falanghina traces its ancestry to Greece (hence why this grape is sometimes called "Falanghina Greco"), where it is plenty hot out in the vineyards and evolved to retain acidity in the warmth. When Falanghina was brought to Southern Italy roughly 1,600 years ago, it was brought to Campania, where it was very successful alongside other white varieties such as Greco (different from Falanghina Greco) and Fiano. Later, it was discovered that Falanghina thrived in the cool microclimates within the hills of Campania. Here is where Falanghina showed its greatest potential, giving fragrant, pine-scented wines with citrus and pineapple fruit flavors...all balanced by a backbone of zesty acidity.

I fell in love with this grape right away. I couldn't stop recommending this to anyone who would listen to me. Falanghina is one of those wines that is impossible to stop smelling when you aren't drinking it. It's great with seafood, perhaps even linguini with clams or crab meat, or just a warm summer night.

Today, I thank Vias Imports for introducing me to Falanghina by sharing a flight of three Falanghina wines with you below, all of which your retailer should have access to. Don't see it on the shelf? Ask them to order it for you! These are all worth seeking out.

Terredora di Paolo Campania Falanghina ($16): My benchmark wine for getting to know this grape. Those pineapple notes I mentioned above really come through in this with lemon zest and rosemary on the nose. My personal favorite example, but...

Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina del Sannio ($17): This is damn good in its own right, showcasing the sub-region of Sannio within Campania. This has more of an apricot and white peach flavor with white flowers on the nose. This wine also ages on the lees of 5 months, giving the wine a creaminess that plays nicely with the acidity.

Mastroberardino Falanghina del Sannio ($18): Well-known for its long-lived red wines made from Aglianico in the Taurasi region, this producer's Falanghina shows bold citrusy flavor and a blend of soft green herbs, with a stony/earthy character. A tasty way to welcome party guests!

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Muscadet

Wines from the vineyards near the river city of Nantes (pictured) are exactly what you need this summer.

It's fun to drink

And it's fun to say.

It comes from France.

It's Muscadet [moose-cah-day]!

You know that I am an unabashed fan of wines from the Loire Valley of France, and with the heat returning to the northeast, I love them even more. There are so many dry, zesty white wines and fresh, lively red wines to choose from. However, today we focus on a white wine from the city of Nantes in the western Loire whose low alcohol, light body, and refreshingly simple flavor is perfect for this time of year. Additionally, it was a wine that my two older sons absolutely loved to say when they overheard me discussing my wine studies; it's clearly fun to say for kids, but they have over a decade to go before it can be fun to drink.

Muscadet is one of the unique protected production areas in France in that it does not refer to a grape variety or a geographic region. Wines made with this name are made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape (often shorted to Melon), whose tendency toward neutral flavors was ideal base material for Dutch traders to turn into brandy. This, along with the deep freeze of 1709, led to an increase in plantings of Melon. The name "Muscadet" is believed to have come from the supposed "musky" character that Melon displayed. Perhaps earlier clones of the variety showed this funk, but in today's examples there is no muskiness to be found.

Muscadet wine is produced from an area of roughly 32,000 acres, a significant swath of land for producing one type of wine, but still pales in comparison to Bordeaux's nearly 300,000 acres. Within the boundaries of the Muscadet zone, there are more specific terroirs and names that may be appended to the name of Muscadet on a label if the wine follows the production rules.

Map of the Muscadet production zones. Chéreau Carré is an important producer of Muscadet wines Image credit: DeMaison Selections

Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine: this is the one we see the most often on the shelves; it is often the richest and most complex of all three sub-zones.

Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire: the northernmost region, where vintage variations are noticed the most out of the three sub-zones. Coteaux de la Loire tends to be the highest in acidity of the three sub-zones.

Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu: this didn't receive its own sub-zone until 1996, so prior to this vineyards were producing basic Muscadet. Soils are lighter and sandier, leading to delicate, light-bodied wines with floral aromatics.

In addition, these three sub-zones can all add "sur Lie" if they use a specific winemaking technique. In order to impart a creamier texture and give Muscadet a fuller body, fermented wines will sit in a tank or vat with the spent yeast cells (called the lees) from fermentation. The cellar hands need to stir the lees, which release sugars and proteins into the wine, leading to a richer texture. Temperature needs to be kept under control and lees need to be stirred, otherwise spoilage can occur in the wine. Additionally, if lees aging goes for more than a twelve months, it can lead to "off" flavors, such as rotten eggs in the wine (Yum!), unless serious care is taken in the cellar.

Muscadet wines are natural matches for seafood. Sea scallops and raw oysters are both phenomenal with Muscadet, as are mussels cooked in white wine with garlic and herbs. Keep the seafood preparations simple,and you will be in business. The other good news about Muscadet is that it does not break the bank, even on the higher end of the price spectrum. I have four wines for you to try, all of which show a progression from delicate and easy-drinking to assertive and complex.

Château de La Chesnaie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ($12): Briny and citrusy, this is an easy way to get yourself introduced to what everyday Muscadet is all about.

Château l'Oiselinière de la Ramée Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ($17): More defined citrus fruits, such as grapefruit and lemon zest, are complemented by a subtle floral note A softer texture than the Chesnaie, but still has some bracing acidity to keep the wine from feeling flat in your mouth.

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Les Gras Moutons ($23): Vines are 20-60 years old, so fruit concentration begins to increase when compared to the previous two wines. The range of citrus fruits show up in this wine, but now stones and earth start to show. The texture is richer than the two as well, and this is where you begin to see what happens when Melon is grown in more specific vineyard areas with organic farming techniques.

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson ($28): Organically farmed, "Clisson" is the first recognized "cru", or great growth of Muscadet. Pépière stretches the limits of lees aging by going to nearly two years on the spent yeast cells. Vines ages are anywhere from 50 to 110 years old, leading to very concentrated flavors. White peaches, apples, brioche bread, and a smoky/stony character make this one of the more complex Muscadet examples out there. I highly encourage you to try this wine if you can find it!

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Aglianico

These past few days here in the northeast have felt very autumn-like; long pants and/or fleeces in mid-to-late July aren't out of the question for a day, but for several days? That's a little excessive and it's keeping the beaches quiet here in New England. All of those zesty, light and fresh white and rosé wines I have been sharing with you suddenly don't seem too appealing.

So today's installment of Fun To Say, Fun To Drink takes us to Southern Italy, which has felt the influence of Greece since the 8th Century, B.C. Present-day Southern Italy was referred to as "Oenotria" by the early Greeks, whose meaning refers to the sea of vineyards they encountered when arriving here. As a result, there is a rich history of native Italian vines, along with those Greek in origin and the one we focus on today is called Aglianico [ahl-YAH-nee-ko].

RIP, Denis Dubourdieu. The wine world lost a dude who made a major impact in Bordeaux's winemaking, and who had a global understanding of viticulture and winemaking, including his reverence for Aglianico.

The late Denis Dubourdieu, legendary wine producer and Professor of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, referred to Aglianico as "probably having the longest consumer history of all (grape varieties)." During the height of the Roman Empire, references to the red Aglianico were made in the works of Pliny the Elder, where the grape was part of the ancient wine called Falernian, which may have included the white grape Greco. Aglianico was consumed by military commanders, scholars, and nobles, whose vines thrived in the volcanic soils of the Campania and Basilicata regions. What was it about Aglianico that was so appealing, even a couple of millenia ago?

From a more modern standpoint, let's take a look at what Aglianico is. It is a grape rich in structural components; high in acid, tannin, and deep, dark fruit concentration. Aglianico also shows a smoky/savory quality that adds an extra distinct layer of complexity. As great as the Nebbiolo-based wines of Barolo and Barbaresco or the Sangiovese-based wines of Tuscany are, they can't give you the flavor and aroma combination you get from Aglianico (of course, you aren't getting the immense structure of Nebbiolo or the leathery/earthiness of aged Sangiovese, but that's another story for another day).

Additionally, if Nebbiolo is the great grape of the north in Barolo and Barbaresco, and Sangiovese rules the center of Italy with Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, and other Tuscan regions, Aglianico is king of the south, most notably in Taurasi in Campania. These regions all contribute to their signature grape variety's ability to age for decades in the bottle. Of course, if you aren't looking to spend tons of money or wait several years for the wine to hit its optimal drinking point, Basilicata's only DOCG-level wine, Aglianico del Vulture, represents a better entry point for the grape. Vineyards are situated right up against an extinct volcano at Mt. Vulture in what is quite the dramatic landscape. Many examples of Aglianico del Vulture can be found for less than $20.

Despite southern Italy having many economically improverished parts of the country, places like Basilicata are capable of producing wines fit for kings and queens. Image credit: Wine Spectator

While the overwhelming majority of Aglianico comes from these southern Italian regions, you can also find some examples in Australia and the American Southwest, notably Texas and Arizona. The common link among these winemaking regions? Hot, sunny, dry weather during the growing season. Without the sun and heat to ripen Aglianico, it would taste aggressively harsh and bitter with green leafy flavors instead of the ripe black plum and black cherry flavors that it should have.

The good news here is that there are some high-quality examples out there for you to try. I have never sampled any of the Aglianico wines outside of Italy, so I haven't included any below. However, if you do see some in your travels, give them a try. In the meantime I have these three that are worth seeking out.

Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania ($17): Here is a great way to get introduced to the Aglianico grape. This winery has always produced steady examples of native grape varieties throughout the south, and this wine is no different. Very approachable with gentle tannins and some red raspberry flavors and violets on the nose.

Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture Riserva ($20): Very ripe black cherry fruit with anise, nutmeg, black pepper, and earthy notes. This wine spent two years in barrel, as noted by the "Riserva" on the label. This is released ready to drink on purchase and needs no further cellaring, but if you wish to do so, you can for a good 5-7 years.

Donnachiara Taurasi ($30): Packed with blackberry fruit, mushrooms, earth, and smoke, this intense and structured Taurasi is a great deal at this price. Chewy and full-bodied, if you have the patience to let this evolve in the bottle for a decade, you will be rewarded. If you don't have that kind of time, this is very enjoyable now...just give it an hour or more to breathe and open up.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Soave

Going by the intro picture above, you can clearly tell that while I really enjoy researching and presenting wine and spirits to you, I also don't take myself too seriously. You know that I will go for the obvious pun every now and then, and today is no different. For you teenagers of the 1990s, you know this artist as Gerardo, the constantly shirtless flash-in-the-pan rapper who blessed us all with the smash hit, "Rico Suave." You may be asking yourself, "Tony...what is wrong with you? How are you going to work this into a meaningful wine discussion?"

Actually, Gerardo's brief popularity may have played a part in reversing the fortunes of a wine region teetering on the edge of irrelevance in the United States. You see, the northern Italian wine zone of Soave (so-AH-vay) was once a major hit in this country thanks to the marketing of Bolla after World War II. By the 1970s, Bolla's TV ads for its Soave (a white wine) along with its red counterpart Valpolicella were everywhere.

Here is a pause for you to go click the link above to see for yourself. These things are pure gold. This one is also fabulous in all of its 1970s glory.

The wines gained a reputation for being bland, flabby, and flavorless, but they were inexpensive and easy to knock back in quantity, leading to it being the top-selling brand in the United States in the 1970s. However, as quickly as Soave rose to the top, it fell out of favor just as fast thanks to Pinot Grigio's ascent. When our bare-chested heartthrob's one-hit wonder was released in 1991, I have no facts that suggest Soave producers saw that as a wake-up call to restore its good name (which it always had locally), but I'm just sayin'! Maybe it forced them to take a hard look at how they were going to continue doing business in their export markets.

Soave's Production Zones, for your educational amusement. Image credit: Casa del Vino

Above: smurf-hating wizard Gargamel. Below: nutty and textured Garganega. Try not to confuse the two.

With that said, some revisions were made in Soave's classification system in the early 2000's. Distinctions were made within the large Soave region (originally given an official appellation in 1968), which had grown from 2,700 acres in the 1920s to over 14,000 acres. The "Soave Classico" region, the traditional heartland for making this style of wine, was restricted to the hillsides, which led to better-quality wines than those wines made from grapes on the flat, fertile plains (where a lot of the cheap 1970s stuff came from). A grape called Garganega (gar-gah-NAY-gah), a thick-skinned white grape whose texture resembles Chardonnay, must make up at least 70% of the blend, while Trebbiano di Soave and/or Chardonnay makes up no more than 30% of the blend. Other local varieties, such as Friulano and Cortese, can be included in up to 5% of the blend.

"Soave Superiore" follows similar rules as Soave Classico, but Pinot Bianco can be used. Even though many vineyards from the Classico region are used to make Superiore wines, some do extend outside the Classico region, but are located on hillsides that lead to good quality wines. These wines are labelled as "Soave Colli Scaligeri;" you may not see this often, but I am just preparing you in case you encounter it in your wine explorations. This region was named "referencing the hills around Verona that used to belong to the noble Scaligeri family that were Lords of Verona for many years." [Source: The Oxford Companion to Wine, Third Edition] There are also sweet, late-harvest versions called "Recioto di Soave," which I honestly have not experienced much, but probably should place that on my to-do list.

Bolla and large cooperative wineries own a significant percentage of business here; they make up at least 90% of all Soave production. The good news is that quality is so much better than it once was. Cantina di Soave is one well-regarded cooperative that makes many brands, but universally produces easy-drinking, but flavorful, wines. Smaller, family-owned wineries generally produce more expensive wines, but they will have additional layers of flavor. Acidity is not as high in Soave wines as they are in many other Italian white varieties, so the wines generally feel softer on the palate. No matter which way you go, Soave is great with seafood with its aromatic, citrusy quality; I find herbed mussels, clams, and scallops, or anything with pesto sauce, to be fine partners for Soave wines. Soave Classico tends to show a nuttiness to it, almondy in fact, so an almond-crusted sturdy white fish will work nicely with it.

So go ahead...put on your Z. Cavaricci pants while blasting "Rico Suave" and thank the guy who ushered in a Soave Renaissance (at least in my own mind) by trying these wines. All are meant to be consumed within a year or two, so find the latest vintage you can.

Rocca Sveva Soave Classico ($15): A great way to introduce yourself to this style of wine, Rocca Sveva is made by Cantina di Soave from 100% Garganega. The Rocca Sveva has honeydew, grapefruit, and Granny Smith apple flavors; this is a leaner, style with more acidity, but this will be very refreshing on a hot day with lighter foods. A great Pinot Grigio alternative, a piece of proscuitto on crusty bread is all you need with this wine.

Inama Soave Classico ($17): Another that is 100% Garganega, Inama has long been a choice that I offer those looking for the Chardonnay alternative. This is not as fruity as the Rocca Sveva, but does have a white peach/nectarine thing going on among the range of flowers on the nose and minerals/almonds on the palate. There is a silkiness to this wine that I enjoy with texture of scallops.

Cantina Prà Soave Classico "Otto" ($22): A full-bodied expression of Garganega, Grapes come from vineyards with 30-60 year old vines, leading to intense fruit concentration. The Otto has lemons, golden apples, apricots, plenty of floral aromas, and a wet stone flavor (yes...wet stones!), with a long-lasting nutty finish.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Teroldego

Just over five years ago, our family left the great state of New Jersey to come to where we are now in Southeastern Connecticut. As you know, I spend some time helping out at a local wine and spirits shop, where I have been given an excellent platform for developing my presentation skills with several classes and casual tastings. The stars aligned perfectly for me as a professional drinker.

However, our short time near in the Pine Barrens helped to lay the foundation for where I am today. The moment we left Pennsylvania for New Jersey, I was taking the WSET courses on the fast track. When an opportunity came to start getting some practical experience in the wine industry, I hooked on with Passion Vines after some great conversations with the owner and founder of his two locations in Somers Point and Egg Harbor Township.

It was fun to get back into retail as it was my first job roughly 25 years ago. Helping customers discover a new wine was very appealing. I didn't know everything then and I never will in my life, but I had some experiences with and read up on many styles of wines, and Passion Vines helped me put that knowledge base into practical use for the first time. This was also where I had my first opportunity to run an education session, handling dessert wines from around the world as well as a Piedmont class.

So when it was time for me to leave for Connecticut, the boss hooked me up with wine as a send-off, and it was this:

Now, let me mention this...I don't know how many times I talked about the wines from Elisabetta Foradori with my boss and coworkers; those who had tasted the wines were in love with them. I had never sampled any of them as my Diploma studies were taking me in several other directions relating to wines I was tasting to prepare for my lessons. When I popped the cork on this soon after setting up shop in Connecticut, I was blown away by this wine made from the grape known as Teroldego [teh-ROLL-deh-go].

Teroldego is a grape that traces its roots to something likely more familiar: Syrah. This ancient red wine variety shows some similarities to Syrah as it has plenty of acidity, tannin, and spice to it. However, there are distinct black tea, tar, and wild herb notes that come out in the wines, leading to a bitter edge that balances the acid, strong red fruit character and tannin. In some ways, the grape reminds me of Nebbiolo, the grape making the long-lived wines of Piedmont.

For many years, Teroldego's home of Trentino-Alto Adige in Italy's northeast produced this wine in enormous quantity, either as a blending component or as a light, simple wine for the locals to enjoy. Any wines to be exported to other markets had its vineyards planted with the more recognizable and fashionable Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s and 1980s. Fortunately, one awesome lady chose to go against the grain and restore the reputation of Teroldego.

Elisabetta Foradori's amphorae. Image credit: Louis/Dressner Imports

Elisabetta Foradori was studying oenology when her father passed away unexpectedly. Her mother kept the winery afloat while Elisabetta finished school and in 1984, at the age of 19, was given the keys to the car, so to speak. She changed vine training methods to promote quality above quantity. She removed the use of chemical pesticides. Elisabetta even made changes in the winery, notably going with more wild yeasts in fermentation (develops interesting flavors in the finished wines) and experimented with cement tanks, which led to fruity, lively wines made from Teroldego. She even does some work with the ancient method of using clay amphorae to produce some of her wines, which leads to rich, dense, chewy wines. Today, she spends a lot of time in the vineyards, sharing her methods with her grown sons.

With that kind of passion and determination to give respect to a native variety, coaxing every bit of potential out of the grape as humanly possible, how can you not give Teroldego a try? Not only is today's flight showcasing the grape, but also the woman who led the charge in making Teroldego the very best it can be. Foradori's wines are available throughout the country, so if you don't see these on your shelf, ask your friendly retailer to order them for you. These are the kind of wines that will stand up to rich foods, probably more of your fall and winter cuisine, but that doesn't mean you can't think about it now!

Here's to my old counterparts from Passion Vines! It was great fun working with you all. Thank you for setting me up for success here in New England.

Foradori Vigneti delle Dolomoti "Foradori" ($28): Elisabetta's flagship wine that has been in production the longest and in the highest quantity, this is how you introduce yourself to Teroldego. This is bursting with raspberry flavors with rose petals and herbs on the nose and a zesty, peppery finish. The upfront fruitiness doesn't quickly dissipate...the raspberry, herbs, and gentle tannins give the wine a lot of length.

Foradori Vigneti delle Dolomiti "Morei" ($47): This is a single site expression, where vines are at minimum 30 years old, leading to concentrated and dark wines (Morei does indeed mean "dark" in the local dialect). As the boss from Passion Vines writes me, "While slow to open up aromatically, the palate shows immediate fresh acidity and minerality with a silky texture. With time, the raspberry, blackberry, and cherry fruits come through, along with a mushroomy earthiness and a touch of fig." This wine was revived in 2009 after a halt in production back in 1999, and it sounds like it is good to have this one back in the product range!

Foradori Vigneti delle Dolomti "Granato" ($62): What a treat to be sent home with this back in 2012. This one needs time to open up in your glass, a good hour or two. When that happens, you are rewarded with pomegranate (which the name "Granato" refers to), cranberry, plum, blackberry, black tea, Italian herbs, peppercorns, and cured meats. Tannins are very chewy and powerful in this one. It's an unbelievable wine not only to sample right away, but this will last well over a decade in the cellar if you are a collector.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Blaufränkisch

The fruity and complex Blaufränkisch, a.k.a. "Lemberger" above. Not the stinky cheese below.

The latest installment of Fun To Say, Fun To Drink gives you something I have been missing since I started: a red wine! Even better, we get to make a deeper dive into Austria; the last time we drank this country up was back in April when we talked about how awesome Grüner Veltliner is. The goal with this segment is, as always, to get you to step outside of your comfort zone with something that is delicious, but maybe you were hesitant to plunk down the cash for it. Besides, when isn't it fun to check out a grape with umlauts in its name?

Let's talk about Blaufränkisch (blau-FRANK-ish). It is a red wine grape that was originally discovered in Germany back in the 1700s in the village of Limberg. This means the original name of this grape was Limberger, and is still sometimes referred to as "Lemberger" when grown in the United States. My guess is that the marketing departments of the wine world were thrilled to be able to call this grape Blaufränkisch, rather than have it associated with the stinky soft cheese (even though the wine actually predates the cheese).

Blaufränkisch (translating to "blue grape from France" from German) performs better in the warmer, more southerly region of Burgenland when compared to the northern regions like Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal that tend to be cooler and better suited for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Blaufränkisch has deep color and substantial (but not overpowering) tannin. There is also a solid backbone of acidity to balance the tannins, and Blaufränkisch has a raspberry and cherry fruit flavor with a touch of peppery spice. The red fruit can creep into black fruit when the vines are planted on prime sites.

Not too many other countries are working with this grape variety, but Steele Wines' Shooting Star "Blue Franc" from Washington is one try for about $16. This wine shows itself with blueberry, fresh blackberry, and violets with a vanilla/baking spice finish.

It's difficult to try and map the flavor profile to a more familiar grape. I would say it can express itself similarly to an Old World Pinot Noir, but the color of Blaufränkisch is deeper. It has the acid and tannin of Syrah, but Syrah's flavors are almost exclusively "black" fruit (blackberry, black cherry). 

Really what you need to do is just get your hands on one of the three wines below (or the Shooting Star above) and go to town. 

Heinrich Burgenland Blaufränkisch ($19): Plenty of cherry fruit on the nose and palate. A little herbaceous and plenty of spiciness (think ground red pepper) on the finish. This would be a fun one to try with baby back ribs. 

Walter Glatzer Carnuntum Blaufränkisch ($19): Rosemary and black pepper complement the red and black fruit combination. Some oak aging in this one, so a little toastiness on the finish.

Prieler Blaufränkisch Johanneshohe ($25): Blackberry on the nose, but a raspberry fruit flavor on the palate. Spicy with noticeable tannins that are mellowed with some maturation in large neutral oak barrels, giving the wine a plush texture on your palate.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Albariño

Time to get to know another grape, people! I realize I have been sticking to white wines in this lately, but it's what I have been tasting lately and the wines have been delicious. You just need to know about them.

I don't know if the sentiment has been as heavy as it has a few years ago, but there is a faction of wine drinkers who are in the ABC Club...Anything But Chardonnay. As always, I will be honest with you...I couldn't stand Chardonnay in my early wine-drinking days. My first encounter was an inexpensive California Chardonnay that was full-bodied, low in acid, and so over-oaked it was like sucking on a Werther's Original Hard Candy. No thanks...I became an ABC drinker.

Al Barino, used car salesman. 

Of course, over time I learned to get over this and I have styles of Chardonnay I enjoy, but there are still plenty of ABC drinkers out there. One alternative that has often been recommended for this crowd of Chardonnay-haters is Albariño (ahl-bah-REE-nyoh...not "Al Barino", who sounds like a dude trying to sell you a clunky used car). What is it about this grape that makes writers sing its praises to ABC drinkers, and why do ABC drinkers seem to enjoy it?

Albariño: the tasty Spanish white grape. Not a used car salesman.

Albariño is a variety native to the Iberian Peninsula, though Spain's Galicia region is responsible for the majority of worldwide production. This is known as "Green Spain," where rainfall is higher here than any other Spanish wine zone. Albariño evolved to have thick skins to resist the potential for rotting grapes, so resulting wines can have some texture and body to it along the lines of Chardonnay. Its aromas are also more assertive than Chardonnay's, showcasing a citrus and floral component along with peaches and apricots that are more reminiscent of a dry Riesling. In fact, there is a theory that Albariño is indeed a clone of Riesling, whose name is taken from Alba (white) and Riño (from the Rhine, a major German river).

Your subzones of Rías Baixas. Image credit: Rías Baixas Wines.

When Albariño was awarded DO status (a protected demonination of origin), Spanish law says you can't name a DO after a grape variety, so you find Albariño made under the name "Rías Baixas," a specific zone within the Galicia region. Within Rías Baixas, distinct "terroirs" emerged, where Albariño shows itself differently in these micro-regions within Rías Baixas. For instance, Val do Salnés is cool and wet, so a mineral and herbaceous flavor may result. Condado do Tea gets hot during the growing season, leading to fuller, softer, tropical fruit-flavored wines.

Additionally, note that Albariño is also called Alvarinho in Portugal, most notably in the wines of Vinho Verde, just over the Minho River (pictured above on the map). The Portuguese version is definitely a wine to try, and can sometimes be found for a few dollars less than the Spanish expression. Albariño's best food partners are seafood: shrimp, scallops, crab, and lobster all come to mind.

No matter which section of Iberia you choose to explore, Albariño is worth seeking out, whether you are part of the ABC crowd or not. Here's a flight of three to taste and compare if you are feeling daring!

Orowines Kentia Albariño ($14): Lemon, melons, and tropical fruits. Very fruity and balanced and a great way to introduce yourself to Albariño.

Legado del Conde Albariño ($16): Very intense grapefuit and fresh green herbs on the nose, yet fuller-bodied than the Kentia.

Aveleda Vinho Verde Alvarinho ($13): Orange and lemon zest with floral notes. Citrusy on the palate with just a touch of stone fruits and mango.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Assyrtiko

There's a part of the winemaking world that deserves the amount of love it is getting seemingly by the minute. Even as we wait for summer weather to really get here, I have the perfect unique grape variety that deserves your attention on these impending warm days. While Sicily and Southern Italy tend to receive the greatest accolades in Mediterranean Europe due to a great mix of authenticity and value, venture farther east to Greece's tiny island of Santorini for something totally different: Assyrtiko [uh-SEER-tee-koh]. 

Jeez, Tony...you are really diving deep here, aren't you? What are you doing? Are you really going to have me digging around for a wine name that looks like something I pulled at random from a bag of Scrabble tiles?

Yes, I am! That's why you are here. You want to know what tastes good; I'm here to point you in the right direction. Assyrtiko not only tastes good, but it's a grape with an interesting story.

Assyrtiko is a white grape variety you only see in Greece; it thrives best in the volcanic ash-laden soils of Santorini, covering 65-70% of the vineyard area there. Volcanic ash: a thing that sounds like nothing should grow in it! Aside from the soil composition, Santorini's climate is hot and very windy for a large part of the growing season. Many grapes can barely survive an unforgiving environment like this, yet Assyrtiko not only survives, but it also finds a way to retain its acidity, leading to fresh, vibrant wines. One of the most innovative ways the growers in Santorini learned to combat the harsh environment is to train the vines into a basket formation, shielding the grapes from the hot winds, yet still allowing good air flow to keep vines cool.

Dry wines from Santorini show some good texture and body, but that zing of lemony acidity and touch of salinity balances things out. Add in a minerally/stony/earthy note that tends to show up, and you have a wine that's great to serve with shellfish or white fish like halibut. Those flavors of Greek cuisine that include the staples of olives, cucumber, fresh garlic, lemon juice, parsley, and yogurt make Assyrtiko an awesome match, even if you had these on lamb (a meat often associated with red wines). It's not easy to make a comparison to another grape variety that is well-known; perhaps it resembles some of the native southern Italian white varieties (Greece and Southern Italy do have a history together), but honestly Assyrtiko is like nothing else. That's what makes it an awesome grape variety. If you need more detailed perspective from someone who has lived in Greece and has greater experience with the grape (and Greek wine in general) than I do, look no further than this guy.

For the record, you can also find Assyrtiko made as a Vin Santo-style sweet wine, though here in the U.S. not in large quantities. Assyrtiko grapes are traditionally laid out on straw mats in a ventilated room to allow water to evaporate and grape sugars to concentrate. The grapes (with two other local varieties of Athiri and Aidani) are then crushed, fermented (with residual sugar remaining), and bottled. Another barrel-aged style can be made after addition of an alcoholic distillate (a la Port production). These are rich, golden nectars that are worth seeking out if you come across them.

But for now, chances are you will find at least one of these three wines and you can taste for yourself. If you really like to explore, find these. Don't see it? Ask your retailer to score one for you. Experience the distinct, unique flavor of Assyrtiko!

Santo Winery Santorini ($16): Packed with lemons and minerals, this has a little floral note and finishes bone dry. This cries out for shrimp or scallops.

Vassaltis Vineyards Santorini ($22): This one shows more grapefruit and nectarines plus a fuller body than the Santo Santorini. Here's where your sturdier white fish will come into play.

Domaine Sigalas Santorini ($25): Loaded with a range of citrus and stone fruit flavors, plenty of minerals, and a salty kick at the end. I want this with lamb and Greek yogurt sauce in a pita with plenty of herbs, as the wine would make a great contrast pairing with the food.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Torrontés

As I continue to piggyback off of this past Saturday's tasting, one of the things we always enjoy doing is introducing grape varieties that might be new to you. There are thousands of them in circulation, and any time we can get you exposed to a new grape we are going to do it. On Saturday, a lot of discussion revolved around an indigenous Argentine white variety known as Torrontés [tohr-rohn-TESS].

Torrontés grapes ready to become a tasty wine. Image credit: Wines of Argentina

Torrontés has some murky origins as an exact date has not been nailed down as to when it was discovered and how long it has been around for. Damián Hudson is given the credit not only for the first record of Torrontés, but for many grape cultivation and wine production methods in the Mendoza and San Juan provinces of Argentina in 1867. It was learned that Torrontés is actually a crossing of two grape varieties. Mission grapes, brought to California and other western parts of the Americas by Spanish missionaries centuries ago for sacramental and table wines, were crossed with the aromatic Muscat of Alexandria to create Torrontés. I am assuming the thought was to take Mission's workhorse nature and resistance to environmental stress (heat, strong winds, etc.) and combine it with the proven track record of Muscat (an ancient variety with a laundry list of synonyms that thrives in the heat).

Additionally, Argentine producers have learned to use altitude to their advantage when planting Torrontés. The main production zone of Salta in the north of the country is very hot, particularly on the valley floors. Every 100 meters (328 feet) above sea level reduces temperature by one degree Celsius. It turns out that Torrontés' tendency to turn alcoholic and bitter on the valley floor disappears when planted at higher altitudes. Producers are now pushing the limits of high-altitude vineyard farming, almost trying to "one-up" each other with how high they can go to produce quality Torrontés with vines being planted as high as 10,000 feet!

Side note...this desire to try and top one another in the vineyards reminds of one of my favorite stand-up comic's bits. Go ahead and enjoy it for four minutes and come back here when you are ready.

The result is a grape that give wines of distinct aromatic intensity, with perfume and flowers being the dominant characteristics. These aromas are preserved thanks to the large temperature swings that take place at vines planted so high above sea level. A range of tropical and stone fruits are on the palate. With Muscat being one of the parents of Torrontés, I understand why many consider the aromas to smell like a Muscat wine, but I'll go with something that might be more familiar to you: Asti.

Yes, the nose reminds me a lot of the best-selling Martini & Rossi Asti Spumante, but the wine is bubbly and sweet. Torrontés has these same floral/perfumed aromas, but has body and finishes dry. Torrontés almost messes with your senses since you expect one sensation based on the nose and when you taste it you get another. It pays to let this wine grow on you by re-tasting to calibrate your senses. It's the best way to tell whether you like it or not.

So while Malbec has become iconic of Argentine wine, Torrontés should be considered the country's signature grape. Its distinct flavor profile and method of farming are like no other in the world. Here are three for you to try on your own; the good thing about Torrontés is that pricing is fairly consistent (all three of these are right around $13.99) and they are all made for shellfish, white fish with a tropical fruit salsa (think mango and pineapple), or as an aperitif.

Bodega Nieto Senetiner Torrontés ($14)

Packed with white flowers, orange zest, and peaches, I would venture into sushi territory with this one. Very fresh and vibrant.

Susana Balbo "Crios" Torrontés ($14)

Nectarines and peaches abound in this one with white flowers on the nose. The Crios series is a range of young wines meant to be consumed right away (the logo are Susana's and her children's handprints). The ripe fruit flavors and aromatics make a nice counter to spicy Thai dishes.

Finca el Origen Torrontés ($14)

Mangoes and pineapples on the palate, rose petals on the nose. This is the wine to go with the tropical fruit salsas I mentioned above

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Gewürztraminer

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

Sometimes, you need an excuse to step outside of your comfort zone. Internally, you might recognize that you need to branch out and be more adventurous in your drinking. However, it can be difficult to choose a direction, particularly if you are not familiar with some of the grape varieties available to you.

So today, I unveil the "Fun To Say, Fun To Drink" feature for you. Need a run-down of a wine grape that you might have seen on a shelf, but you were hesitant to spend the money on it? I have you covered, and the debut involves the distinct and unusual grape called Gewürztraminer.

Umm...how do you say that, and what is it?

Gewürztraminer (guh-VERTZ-trah-meen-er) is an aromatic white grape variety which, despite having a German name, has its roots in Alsace, France. If you read your history books, you will remember that this eastern section of France was fought over for many centuries, changing hands from French to German rule a number of times until the end of World War II. It's cool, yet sunny climate lets Gewürztraminer and other aromatic varieties thrive. Despite being considered a white grape, Gewürztraminer has a pink/red color to its skins. Because of that, the wines end up having a coppery hue to them.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

So what does Gewürztraminer smell and taste like?

Gewürztraminer is loaded with tropical and exotic fruit, perfume, flowers, and spices; these wild flavors and aromas make sense when we find out that "Gewürztraminer" translates to "spiced traminer", where "traminer" is an ancient family of aromatic varieties that made its home in northeastern Italy's Tyrol region (near the Austrian border). When I went to school at the International Wine Center and studied the Alsace region, our instructor for the session claimed Gewürztraminer to be a "banker" grape; it's aromas are so distinct that if I encountered it on an exam, I could easily identify it and "take it to the bank" that I would be right. Guess what? So can you.

Is all Gewürztraminer the same?

Not at all. Gewürztraminer has the tendency to get high in alcohol and low in acidity, so it can have a flabby, oily texture if the grapes ripen too quickly. Underripe Gewürztraminer can be very light in flavor; I would describe that sensation of drinking rosewater or green tea. There is a wide range of expressions in between those extremes, and vineyard site selection is critical in getting the most out of this grape. Aside from Alsace, you can find Gewürztraminer from northeastern Italy, Germany, Oregon, Washington State's Columbia Valley, the Finger Lakes of New York, and even South Africa. Examples can also finish fruity (with a pleasant bitter edge), dry, or sweet (in the case of "Late Harvest" examples that turn to raisins on the vine).

So what do you have for me and what am I eating with them?

I am glad you asked! By the way, due to Gewürztraminer's fussiness and difficulty to deal with in the vineyards and winery, it is not a cheap wine. That being said, I have some reasonably-priced examples that you should be able to find at your local wine shop or beverage depot.

Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Gewürztraminer ($18)

Floral, citrusy, and gingery, this zesty example from Oregon's Montinore Estate will work great with a range of Thai or Indian dishes. A great way to get yourself familiar with Gewürztraminer for under $20.

Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Gewürztraminer ($25)

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this Italian example is very lively and aromatic, but lush on the palate. It's full-bodied texture makes this great with a plate of sausages or a pasta with ground sausage, cream, and basil. The honeyed mango flavors would make this work with duck, too.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer ($25)

Pierre Sparr traces its history back to the year 1680. Anise, apricots, and dried peaches show in this wine, along with a touch of residual sweetness. If you are familiar with the lychee fruit, you might detect that here, too. I would go with bacon-wrapped scallop with this one.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg ($40)

Pierre Sparr's Mambourg vineyard is dominated by Gewürztraminer vines, which have an average age of 40 years, leading to intense, concentrated wines. This wine is rich and full-bodied with a spectrum of dried tropical fruits, honey, and spice. If you are living it up this would be a great match with foie gras.