Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Soave

Going by the intro picture above, you can clearly tell that while I really enjoy researching and presenting wine and spirits to you, I also don't take myself too seriously. You know that I will go for the obvious pun every now and then, and today is no different. For you teenagers of the 1990s, you know this artist as Gerardo, the constantly shirtless flash-in-the-pan rapper who blessed us all with the smash hit, "Rico Suave." You may be asking yourself, "Tony...what is wrong with you? How are you going to work this into a meaningful wine discussion?"

Actually, Gerardo's brief popularity may have played a part in reversing the fortunes of a wine region teetering on the edge of irrelevance in the United States. You see, the northern Italian wine zone of Soave (so-AH-vay) was once a major hit in this country thanks to the marketing of Bolla after World War II. By the 1970s, Bolla's TV ads for its Soave (a white wine) along with its red counterpart Valpolicella were everywhere.

Here is a pause for you to go click the link above to see for yourself. These things are pure gold. This one is also fabulous in all of its 1970s glory.

The wines gained a reputation for being bland, flabby, and flavorless, but they were inexpensive and easy to knock back in quantity, leading to it being the top-selling brand in the United States in the 1970s. However, as quickly as Soave rose to the top, it fell out of favor just as fast thanks to Pinot Grigio's ascent. When our bare-chested heartthrob's one-hit wonder was released in 1991, I have no facts that suggest Soave producers saw that as a wake-up call to restore its good name (which it always had locally), but I'm just sayin'! Maybe it forced them to take a hard look at how they were going to continue doing business in their export markets.

Soave's Production Zones, for your educational amusement. Image credit: Casa del Vino

Above: smurf-hating wizard Gargamel. Below: nutty and textured Garganega. Try not to confuse the two.

With that said, some revisions were made in Soave's classification system in the early 2000's. Distinctions were made within the large Soave region (originally given an official appellation in 1968), which had grown from 2,700 acres in the 1920s to over 14,000 acres. The "Soave Classico" region, the traditional heartland for making this style of wine, was restricted to the hillsides, which led to better-quality wines than those wines made from grapes on the flat, fertile plains (where a lot of the cheap 1970s stuff came from). A grape called Garganega (gar-gah-NAY-gah), a thick-skinned white grape whose texture resembles Chardonnay, must make up at least 70% of the blend, while Trebbiano di Soave and/or Chardonnay makes up no more than 30% of the blend. Other local varieties, such as Friulano and Cortese, can be included in up to 5% of the blend.

"Soave Superiore" follows similar rules as Soave Classico, but Pinot Bianco can be used. Even though many vineyards from the Classico region are used to make Superiore wines, some do extend outside the Classico region, but are located on hillsides that lead to good quality wines. These wines are labelled as "Soave Colli Scaligeri;" you may not see this often, but I am just preparing you in case you encounter it in your wine explorations. This region was named "referencing the hills around Verona that used to belong to the noble Scaligeri family that were Lords of Verona for many years." [Source: The Oxford Companion to Wine, Third Edition] There are also sweet, late-harvest versions called "Recioto di Soave," which I honestly have not experienced much, but probably should place that on my to-do list.

Bolla and large cooperative wineries own a significant percentage of business here; they make up at least 90% of all Soave production. The good news is that quality is so much better than it once was. Cantina di Soave is one well-regarded cooperative that makes many brands, but universally produces easy-drinking, but flavorful, wines. Smaller, family-owned wineries generally produce more expensive wines, but they will have additional layers of flavor. Acidity is not as high in Soave wines as they are in many other Italian white varieties, so the wines generally feel softer on the palate. No matter which way you go, Soave is great with seafood with its aromatic, citrusy quality; I find herbed mussels, clams, and scallops, or anything with pesto sauce, to be fine partners for Soave wines. Soave Classico tends to show a nuttiness to it, almondy in fact, so an almond-crusted sturdy white fish will work nicely with it.

So go ahead...put on your Z. Cavaricci pants while blasting "Rico Suave" and thank the guy who ushered in a Soave Renaissance (at least in my own mind) by trying these wines. All are meant to be consumed within a year or two, so find the latest vintage you can.

Rocca Sveva Soave Classico ($15): A great way to introduce yourself to this style of wine, Rocca Sveva is made by Cantina di Soave from 100% Garganega. The Rocca Sveva has honeydew, grapefruit, and Granny Smith apple flavors; this is a leaner, style with more acidity, but this will be very refreshing on a hot day with lighter foods. A great Pinot Grigio alternative, a piece of proscuitto on crusty bread is all you need with this wine.

Inama Soave Classico ($17): Another that is 100% Garganega, Inama has long been a choice that I offer those looking for the Chardonnay alternative. This is not as fruity as the Rocca Sveva, but does have a white peach/nectarine thing going on among the range of flowers on the nose and minerals/almonds on the palate. There is a silkiness to this wine that I enjoy with texture of scallops.

Cantina Prà Soave Classico "Otto" ($22): A full-bodied expression of Garganega, Grapes come from vineyards with 30-60 year old vines, leading to intense fruit concentration. The Otto has lemons, golden apples, apricots, plenty of floral aromas, and a wet stone flavor (yes...wet stones!), with a long-lasting nutty finish.