Don't Pass Over the Kosher Wine
Yeah, I went for the obvious pun in the title of this post. I couldn't resist being that guy for a moment...
Now, let's get serious. Passover is coming next week and for my Jewish friends, this is a significant springtime feast holiday. If you didn't know, Passover celebrates the emancipation of the Israelites from decades of Egyptian slavery. The main traditional meal, the Seder, features, lamb or brisket, bitter herbs, and matzah (the flat unleavened bread, which according to this web site's explanation, never had time to rise before the Israelites fled Egypt). Growing up in New Jersey, I had more than a handful of Jewish friends and recognized what a big holiday this was for them.
Additionally at the Seder, there are four cups of wine served. Wine was considered the drink of royalty in ancient times, and with newly found freedom the Israelites were able to partake in wine consumption. There are many reasons given as to why four cups are used, and you can read about them here.
If you are participating in a Seder and you are bringing wine, it needs to be labeled "Kosher for Passover," meaning the wine must be produced with a rabbi's observance with no juice or equipment having touched yeast that made contact with grain, bread, or dough. Please note that it does not need to be Manischewitz, the wine made from concord grapes that is so acidic it is significantly sweetened to balance the harsh tartness. Chances are, this wine will be used in one of the four cups and will likely already be at the Seder host's home. The unique taste of Manischewitz leads some to think all kosher wines taste sticky sweet, but this couldn't be farther from the truth.
Back in February, I was asked by a friend to do a Kosher wine presentation and tasting for a group at a synagogue. I am not Jewish. I am not a theology expert by any stretch (by the way, feel free to correct any factual errors in this post and let me have it). However, I am a wine nerd and what better way to expand on my wine nerdery by helping people make good choices for the holiday table? I had never done one of these types of tastings before, but it was a great opportunity to learn more. Without hesitation, I was in.
We had a lineup of wines originating from all over the world. That's right...Kosher wines can be made anywhere. While there is a religious connection to Kosher production, honestly you can just think of Kosher production as an adherence to a standard, no different than following rules to make a wine that is labeled "Sustainable," or "Organic," or "Biodynamic." The biggest discovery made that night was this: Kosher wines taste better than they ever have. Back in the day, Kosher wines were literally boiled to pasteurize the wine, leading to flat, tired-tasting wines with little fruit on the palate. Today, flash pasteurization techniques are used to adhere to Kosher standards; some inexpensive Ruby Ports are made this way and those taste fine.
So there wasn't a bad wine in the bunch. Some folks may have preferred one style over another, but we could all agree that the quality of the wines were very good. Below are some of the favorites of that night that you can proudly bring to a Passover Seder, all of which will cost you somewhere in the $18-$25 range. If you are not celebrating Passover and you encounter one of these wines on your local wine shop's shelf, I encourage you to experience them for yourself.
Baron Herzog Selection Vouvray: This is 100% Chenin Blanc, featuring peachy fruit flavors. Chenin is a grape with a high level of natural acidity and is balanced by just a touch of sweetness. This wine can be tremendous with matzoh ball soup, or simply as an aperitif to welcome your guests. If you are looking for a Manischewitz alternative, consider this Vouvray.
Recanati Chardonnay: This Israeli winery was founded by Lenny Recanati, who traces his family's roots to Italy. His Chardonnay from Upper Galilee has defined pineapple and passion fruit flavors, clean and unoaked. Not only a great choice for the Seder, this is going to be a fine spring/summertime Chardonnay to enjoy as well.
Ramon Cardova Rioja: 100% Tempranillo, this is a lighter Rioja with bright, fresh red berry flavors and a touch of oak and spice. A straightforward and versatile wine, this is a natural partner with lamb.
Psagot Sinai Red Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Shiraz. This bold and spicy red blend from the Judean Hills region of Israel shows a great combination of New World fruit-forwardness with Old World earthy tones. The richness and peppery kick on the finish will be outstanding with a brisket.