Kicking Back: Argentina, Brews, and Sherry

You all know I spend a great deal of time tasting as a professional. Dissecting wines, spirits, beers, and any other beverage is just what I do. However, I also like to kick back over the weekend and simply enjoy something without thinking about it (too much). OK, fine…I taste the first mouthful critically, figure out what is going on, then savor it while watching a movie, dining out, or for nothing more than straightforward pleasure.

And what good is it if I taste these wonderful things and then not share them with you? So here we go with a run-down of everything I sampled over the weekend. It will give you something to consider when expanding your drinking horizons.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen Red Blend Mendoza

It is appropriate that I would have this wine during Lent as this Certified Organic Argentinian blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc is Vegan-Friendly (so no animal products were used during the fining process). No oak, no filtration, and no sulfites added, Virgen is packed with blackberry and blueberry fruit flavor and a slight floral/herbaceous note on the nose that complements the fruity fragrance. 14.5% ABV. $15

Firestone Walker Lager, Paso Robles, California

From the Firestone Walker website:

In the words of Brewmaster Matt Brynildson, "Firestone Lager is made for drinking, not thinking. It's about enjoying a good, clean beer."

I couldn’t agree more. When hanging with the family at the Jealous Monk, I wanted something easy to help me wash down the plate of sausage, spaetzle, pierogies, and sauerkraut I ordered for dinner. This German-style Helles has touch of malt and hint of bitterness, which is all I needed. This is a real crowd-pleaser that has lawnmower beer potential. 4.5% ABV, IBU: 17, $10/6-pack

New England Cider Company Passion Fruit Cider, Wallingford, Connecticut

There have been many times I have seen ciders from these folks, and I have passed over them wondering if it would be too sweet. Well, The Greatest Wife In The World ordered this with Fish & Chips, and it was pretty damn tasty. A sweeter cider, but not sticky or cloying at all as it was very well-balanced with a nice zing of acidity. The passion fruit flavor enhanced the fruitiness of the cider, too. Kudos to the New England Cider Company on this seasonal release! 5.2% ABV, $11/6-pack (estimated)

To close out the weekend, I revisited a wine from a recent program we did at the store with Lustau Sherry, the Almacenista José Luis González Obregón Fino del Puerto. Yes, this is a mouthful to say, but you know what? This bone dry, tangy, nutty Sherry is a perfect partner with nuts, olives, cured meats, and a range of hard cheeses. It’s also so good, the entire Lustau evening deserves a post of its own (hint, hint…). 15% ABV. $17/500mL bottle.

Adventures in Backyard Viticulture

For the better part of the last six weeks, my time has been spent teaching Bordeaux classes, running weekend tastings, and helping to create suitable outdoor living space. Transforming the backyard from an area strictly used for nature to drop large branches during heavy winds and a glorified toilet for the dog was a top priority. Truthfully, I have never been happier to forego writing on the blog in order to use that time to make it so we can sip Negronis while listening to the soothing sounds of a replica statue of Manneken Pis getting to work.

Yet after all of that, we still had an unused/unplanned area around the corner to the side of our house. What do we want to do with this area off of the patio, where I plan to regularly sit and drink beers while slow-roasting a carcass of some kind on my 22” Weber charcoal grill?

Some of the handiwork in progress last month. Plants, rocks, furniture, and a peeing statue. What else do you really need?

As I walked back with Boys #2 and #3 from our town’s Memorial Day Parade, I received a text from The Greatest Wife In The World:

“Want to do vines along the side yard?…”

Uh…yeah! This sounds amazing! All of the brainpower that stored principles of grapegrowing in my WSET Diploma classes suddenly unlocked and began rushing outward, and together we moved forward with ordering vines from Double A Vineyards, headquartered in Fredonia, New York. When you place an order, they send you grafted cuttings of vines; the top of the vine is the grape variety (Merlot, Riesling, etc.) and the bottom of the vine underneath the graft union is an American rootstock which is resistent to the nasty vine disease phylloxera. Then you plant the cuttings according to their instructions.

This is something we have tossed around in a “wouldn’t it be cool to do this” sort of conversation on more than one occasion. But did we put a ton of thought into doing it? Honestly, no…but Double A provided plenty of information to help us get started. Combine that with some of my own knowledge of grapevines (through study only, and not as a farmer by any stretch) and what they require, and we could give this project a real shot.

The first thing we need to understand is climate. Fortunately, we sit in a latitude between 30 and 50 degrees North, which is an area of the globe where grapevines can actually grow (the same holds true for the southern hemisphere, too). Most places are warm enough and get enough sunlight, but as always, there are going to be little nuances that make some regions successful and others not as much. Living just a quarter-mile from the Long Island Sound, means we are heavily influenced by the rough Atlantic waters, rain, humidity, and potential for rot. We also do not get large temperature swings from day to night (something that grapevines typically really like), but we have enough days above 50F degrees where we should be OK. Grapevines become active above 50F and look to go dormant when temperatures drop below 50F. The side of our house can get decent exposure to sun in the early and mid-morning, but afternoons not as much. Hey, we are taking a chance here, but you have to live a little, right?

Next comes soil. Grapevines grow in places that look like nothing should be able to grow at all. They are the opposite of fruit and vegetables that you grow in your garden. Those need fertile soils and a lot of water; grapevines need bad soils where water can drain away freely in order to perform at their best. Our backyard soils feel like a combination of clay and silt with a little sand mixed in. When we planted the grape vines, we brought some of the leftover large stones that we used in landscaping over to surround the vines (Chateauneuf-du-Pape style!). Not only might this create some extra warmth for the vines, but will also protect them from the dog exploring the area through incessant digging.

Then there is also the decision of which grape varieties to choose. For many years, I have believed that some northeastern winery should be working with Albarino; it is a thick-skinned aromatic variety that thrives in northwestern Spain and Portugal, where it can be very rainy and humid. I’m not saying by any stretch that Connecticut is going to make Albarino that rivals what the Iberian Peninsula cranks out, but it should show itself pretty well and definitely better than so many of the harsh Cabernet Sauvignons and overly acidic Chardonnays that local wineries insist on shoehorning into their vineyards. With that said, Double A was out of stock on Albarino, so we are rolling the dice on Cabernet Franc (an earlier-ripening red variety that can adapt to many soil types) and Gruner Veltliner, which does well in sandy-silty soils, but we are hoping the humidity doesn’t create a mildew issue.

Only 9 days in the ground, and we already have some progress. Check it out…we have some buds! Some on our Cabernet Franc side and some on the Gruner Veltliner side.

Training diagram by Double A Vineyards

The next step is, once those buds actually become a shoot, we can start training the vine as suggested by Double A here over the next few years. But for now it is baby steps. We just want to keep these things alive before we even worry about actual grapes forming. This could end up being an exercise in futility for all we know, but 10 vines for $100 is a small investment to have some fun, learn something, and maybe even make a single bottle of wine somewhere down the road. We will be sure to keep you updated on how this turns out, but the fact that something green is emerging from these cuttings is already encouraging.

Vintage 2006: My Professional And Personal Love

Thirteen years ago yesterday, The Greatest Wife In The World and I were married. Appropriately, the heavy rains came down all afternoon, just like it did on our wedding day, reminding me of the image of my bride-to-be sprinting after her veil that the wind took off of her head. It was such an authentic reaction in the moment of crisis. To mark each passing year of glorious wedlock, I do my best to search for wines that drink well from 2006 so we can celebrate. This year’s choice came from the ancient property of Tenuta di Capezzana: Carmignano Trefiano.

This property in the Carmignano region, just 10 miles from Florence, has been making wine since 804 A.D. Capezzana was the first to introduce Cabernet Sauvignon into the vineyards of Tuscany. The grape thrived here thanks to the land being situated at lower altitudes than nearby Chianti areas; this leads to more warmth, allowing Cabernet Sauvignon to fully ripen. The resulting success made the wines of Capezzana (and more broadly, Carmignano) popular throughout the Renaissance Era all throughout Western Europe.

By 1975, Carmignano became a legally recognized region of wine production. Other Tuscan properties were beginning to experiment with Cabernet Sauvignon in blends with Sangiovese, leading to the concept of “Super Tuscans.” However, producers were forced to label those wines with the broader appellation of “Toscana” since Carmignano was the only demarcated region at the time allowed to have Cabernet Sauvignon. Carmignano had the jump on everyone else on this style, though by 1996 other regions like Bolgheri and even Chianti allowed Cabernet Sauvignon to be part of blends.

2006 was, and still is, an outstanding year for Tuscan wines. If you are a fan of older wines, take advantage of what Tuscany has to offer across the board: Brunello di Montalcino (Banfi), Carmignano (Capezzana), Chianti Classico Riserva (Rocca delle Macie), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Fattoria del Cerro), Bolgheri…these are all drinking well right now. While I realize that I spend a lot of time shining the light on lesser known regions that deserve your attention, returning to the classics is important, too. Tuscany’s cherry fruit flavors, earthiness, and herbaceousness are so friendly with tomato-based dishes (where Sangiovese dominates), and the aged examples become more leathery and savory and are satisfying on their own or with a hunk of Parmesan. As The Greatest Wife In The World would say, these wines “taste Italian”…the wines express authenticity.

I have no tasting notes to provide you on Capezzana’s Trefiano yet; once we find a day where we are not traveling for work, doing wine dinners, or attending/leading classes, we’ll offer some data for you to chew on. In the meantime, you can’t go wrong with a bottle of Tuscan red wine with a 2006 vintage. Just note that securing a bottle could be difficult as available stock is irregular from market to market, but the producers I named parentheses above are usually the most readily available without (too many) exorbitant ($100+) price tags; those wines keep you in the $30-$90 range.

If you aren’t looking to drop that kind of cash on a wine, well then you have another way to approach Tuscany, and Carmignano in particular. If you want to explore Carmignano for a fraction of the cost, go for Capezzana’s Barco Reale di Carmignano, a red wine made from younger Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc vines along with little aging. The current release is from the 2014 vintage and is ready to drink now for about $16. The result is a fresh, vibrant wine wirth dark fruit flavors, gentle tannins, and refreshing acidity.

Just Taste It: Portuga Red Blend

“Just Taste It” is essentially the phrase that best described my food and drink upbringing. Family members would just put something in front of me and implore me to taste it until I actually did. I am now going to do the same to you by giving you a snapshot of something I tried that I think you will like if you give it an honest shot.

So what is Portuga?

A red wine blend from vineyards near Lisbon, Portugal. Imported by Wine In Motion of Newark, NJ

Who makes it?

Casa Santos Lima, a company that owns about 1,000 acres of vines all over Portugal. They have many brands offering a massive range of styles and price points.

The beauty of many Portuguese wines is that they are transparent regarding what’s inside the bottle…producers and their importers want you to get to know them!

What’s in it?

40% Castelão: this is a grape grown all over Portugal since it is versatile in blends and easy to cultivate. It can be light and fruity (as it is in the case of this specific wine) or stand up to oak aging (adding another dimension to Port wines, especially in “Vintage” years). Its versatility reminds me most of Barbera from Piedmont, Italy

30% Touriga Franca: this is another versatile Portuguese variety, though its aromatic intensity stands out more than Castelão. While important in sweet Port wines, it also makes excellent dry red wines with blackberry and violet notes. In warm years, the wines made from Touriga Franca are full-bodied and plush, similar to Merlot without the chocolatey flavors.

15% Cabernet Sauvignon: Valued for its tannin, acid, and overall structure, Cabernet Sauvignon is typically only used in the southern regions of Portugal as the northern areas tend to stick with native varieties only.

Ruby-colored and berry-scented, the Portuga is an easy-drinking casual weeknight red wine.

15% Syrah: Offers similar structural characteristics to Cabernet Sauvignon, but with distinct black pepper and earthy qualities. An emerging favorite of southern Portugal.

(h/t to Wines of Portugal for helping me best describe Castelão and Touriga Franca)

How is it made?

The wine is actually fermented in concrete tanks, which helps provide a rounder texture without imparting additional flavors the way a wood barrel would. The wine then spends 4 months in a small barrel to soften the texture further.

How does it taste?

Medium-bodied, fruity (all of the berry flavors are in this wine), and rather light in alcohol (12.5% abv).

How do I serve it?

Stick the bottle in the fridge for about 15 minutes; a light chill on the wine makes the fruit and aromatics pop in your glass. It is also a screwcap, so if you don’t have a corkscrew handy, it’s OK. Drink this within a year or two.

What am I eating with this?

Classic beef burgers are the first thing that jumps to mind, but tomato salsa-based Mexican dishes would be really good here, too.

How much is it?

You should be able to find the Portuga Red for about $10 in most places. Casa Santos Lima is available in many parts of the country, but I do notice a significant concentration of their wines in the northeastern U.S.

What Are You Bringing To The Table?

It’s good to be back writing again after a lengthy layoff, and what better time to jump back in than to do it with Thanksgiving coming up. Last year, I put together a nice little Thanksgiving guide for you, but I can’t just mail in my first post in two months.

So I pose the question to you…what are you bringing to the table? Whether you are hosting or traveling, you are doing something to contribute this Thanksgiving, right? Of course you are, and perhaps you don’t know what to go for or you find yourself needing a change from the usual.

I will be honest…you can bring just about any beverage of your choosing and it will be fine. Seriously! The beauty of the Thanksgiving feast is that you have a lot of different things to choose from. Turkey itself is fairly mild and many wines will work fine. Sometimes the challenge can be strong flavors; maybe you have a lot of herbs and greens as your sides. Cranberry sauce is sweet and sour. What if you are frying or charcoal-smoking your turkey? Here are some guidelines to help you find the right wine for your holiday table.

Skip the “big” wines”

Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo have a lot of tannins, acids, and power. They overwhelm just about anything on your table. Additionally, oaky Chardonnay (particularly from the New World) will create bitter flavors on your palate. Save these wines for after dinner if you really like them.

Skip the acidic wines

Sauvignon Blanc can be aggressively acidic and feel thin and tart on your palate with all the rich foods, however acidic wines with some texture can be a very good match. Instead, lean on a white Bordeaux, which typically has Sauvignon Blanc, with some Sémillon blended in. Sémillon has a soft, honeyed texture that tamps down the piercing acids Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau Lamothe de Haux ($15) is consistently a good example.

Go classic: Pinot Noir or Gamay

Pinot Noir’s liveliness, fruitiness, and silky texture are great for Thanksgiving. The baking spices and earthiness that comes through in this grape matches particularly well. I tend to lean on Pinot Noir from Oregon or even Chile; both regions give a nice balance of the aspects I mentioned above. Additionally, Gamay from Burgundy, which you will often find as Beaujolais is lighter and fruitier than Pinot Noir and virtually no tannin. Louis Latour released a blend of these two grapes (85% Gamay, 15% Pinot Noir, $15) that to me is the ultimate Thanksgiving wine.

If you smoked your turkey…

Time to go for something a little more intense than Pinot Noir and Gamay, which are delicate and will fade behind a smoked turkey. Here is a spot to try a Zinfandel, Grenache/Syrah blend, or South African red blend. Zinfandel is plush and jammy, low in tannin but full-bodied and able to stand up to the stength of smoking. A southern French red blend (such as the $13 Mas Sauvaire from the Languedoc region) would work here, too. A.A. Badenhorst’s Secateurs ($15) is another fine option if you want to explore South Africa.

Be daring: Go with an aromatic white

Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are noble grapes in Alsace, with fruity/floral and exotic flavors and aromas. The richness of Alsace Pinot Gris is a great choice. Gewurztraminer has full-bodied tropical fruit flavors and can be very good with a ham if you have guests that don’t do turkey. Viognier is a luxurious white Rhone variety that offers similar aromas to Riesling but with more body and weight. Even better…try a blend of some of these varieties! Willm “Gentil” is a noble white Alsace blend ($13) and Korta “Irune” ($16) from Chile is Viognier, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Either would be a lot of fun at the table.

Cheat and bring bubbly

No one refuses Champagne, Prosecco, or sparkling wine of any kind. No one, I’m convinced. Plus it is a great way to start the day. Champagne Aubry ($38) is very reasonably priced with an orange zest and brioche character. Mionetto Prosecco ($12) is fun and fruity, suitable for drinking on its own or for making a cocktail. If you don’t have a Champagne budget, try a “Cremant” such as Bailly Lapierre’s Blanc de Noirs ($19).

Try Sherry

Sherry is great for any hard-to-pair meal. Heck, the Spanish drink it with their tapas, since you have so many different foods coming. It has a salty, nutty character with just the right amount of texture. An Amontillado Sherry such as Emilio Lustau’s Los Arcos ($15) is a fine way to introduce yourself to Sherry if you have never tried it before.

No need to go super-expensive…but go ahead if you want to!

I mean, you can if you want to and there is something satisfying about enjoying a high-end wine at holiday time, but chances are higher that Thanksgiving is going to be quantity-driven. I am helping you keep costs down by keeping my recommendations under $20 where possible.

With that, I wish you a very Happy Thanksgiving. Cheers!

Ask Tony: How Do I Get Someone To Like Wine?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers!

Today's question is quite the interesting one as it deals with a matter of taste and preference. Perhaps you are at a party or gathering with someone and wished this person loved wine as much as you do...or perhaps you wished you loved wine as much as your friend. Instead, beers, cocktails, or a dram of a favorite spirit take the lead and that is OK. I love all of those things, too. However, there is something magically relaxing about wine. I will tell you this...I have never seen an unhappy person sipping on a glass of wine. I know some find wine to be snobbish and exclusive, but I say it is just the opposite: it is as welcoming and inclusive as clinking beer bottles and whiskey glasses.

When it comes to drinking alcohol in America, there is an overwhelming number of products to choose from in an over 200 billion-dollar market. Even with beer still making up the majority (47%), spirits (about 36%) and wine (just over 17%) are growing and becoming more important. So with the question of "How do I get someone to like wine," comes choices from among what amounts to a $35 billion pool of adult grape juice. My goodness...

It's a question with many layers; there is not one defined way to attack this idea, but I do have a way to provide some guidance. These points are not to be taken in as a top-to-bottom order in which you do these things; you have lateral movement based on how you wish to go about enjoying and becoming increasingly comfortable with the nectar of the gods. However, item number one is the most crucial step and needs to be followed at all times:

Have an open mind

You or your friend are getting into wine, because you want to know more about it. It takes a small level of commitment to allow yourself to explore what is out there. If you taste one wine to start and you can't stand it, it doesn't mean you don't like wine...you don't like THAT wine. As an old colleague in New Jersey used to tell customers with whiskey, "Of course you like whiskey...you just haven't met the right one yet."

Start with the international grapes

When I use the term "international," I am referring to wine grape varieties that have proven to make quality wines in multiple countries of the world. You will oftentimes see these grape names prominently displayed on a label so there is no mistaking what you are drinking. The major players include the following: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. The wine geeks out there could argue some others, but lets stick with these. Four whites and four reds with easy access.

Think about the beers you like

Rich and creamy with sweet tropical fruit, this Chardonnay from Washington State might be just for you if you are a fan of malty beers. Typically found for about $13.

I immediately point the IPA drinker to Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. The bitter finish of the IPA resembles the bold flavors, as well as aggressiveness of the acid and tannins in the two grapes above. A saison can have some fresh, but funky earthy components that a Pinot Noir can display. Like a malty ale? Chardonnay can show the same richness in texture, especially when oaked. Merlot's plush texture and plummy/chocolatey flavors can mirror malty sweetness, too. If you like something lighter like a pilsner, the delicate nature of Riesling or refreshing qualities of Sauvignon Blanc may be of interest to you. It is not always a direct match, but these qualities are something to think about if you are trying to find a wine based on the beers you like.

Think about the spirits you like

A great way to get into Pinot Noir, without paying over $20 for it. A to Z can be found for as little as $14 in some markets.

Using the same principles as above with beer, consider the following for spirits. Peated whisky matches up well with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sauvignon Blanc has intense, pungent aromatics that follow Tequila. Vodka's delicate flavors mirror Pinot Grigio and its body matches up with Riesling. Oaked Chardonnay can have a similar richness and sweet, ripe fruitiness to Bourbon or even rum's tropical fruit notes. Sauvignon Blanc's acid and spice in cool climates can show similar character to the forwardness of rye whiskey. Cognac's fresh, lively nature can mirror either Riesling or Pinot Noir, particularly from Oregon or Chile.

Think about the non-alcoholic flavors you like

This can be especially useful to a newbie alcohol drinker as this can be useful across all categories. As it applies to wine, think about fruits you like; the amazing thing about wine grapes is that each variety has phenolic compounds in the skins and juice that lead to a variety of "non-grape" flavors and aromas. Some of these compounds can be amplified or muted during alcoholic fermentation, or even the region of the world where the grapes are grown. This is why you hear or read people describing wines smelling like peaches, berries, or cherries in a description on a label or magazine article. 

A branded "welcome" wine from the prestigious Schloss Johannisberg property in Germany, 50 Degree Riesling is a great introduction to the grape at just $15.

If you like citrus and "green" flavors (lemon, lime, fresh herbs), then Sauvignon Blanc might be right for you. Do you enjoy white stone fruits (apricots, nectarines, peaches)? Riesling or Pinot Gris may be your preference. How about plums? California Merlot has that type of flavor. Fresh raspberries and red cherries? Pinot Noir can show that in the Old World, but if you like raspberry jam then you may prefer California Pinot Noir. Blackberries and black cherries? Cabernet Sauvignon's got them. These are all broad generalizations, but some quick research and reading can give you an idea of what to expect in a bottle of wine.

Also note that many European wines can have earthy and herbaceous notes, more noticeable acids and tannins complementing the fruit flavors. New World wines tend to be fuller-bodied and riper/bolder in fruit flavor with softer tannins and acidity. Again, this is a broad generalization, but the concept should help you establish a starting point.

An easy way to jump into a deeper part of the pool, the Centine incorporates 60% Sangiovese with 20% each Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon...all for $10-$12! 

Be sure to (eventually) branch out!

I don't spend all this time writing about the different wine regions of the world, nor do you read this blog to have you stick with the same wine over and over again. Is it good to have some reliable wines you can go to anytime because you like them? Yes! But don't forget about the other grapes in the 35 billion-dollar wine market! Explore regional varieties like Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Gewurztraminer, and the like. There is plenty of good wine that needs a home...and we will spend time discussing these in the future. Keep these on the back burner.

Record what you like

Not everyone wants to bust out a journal and a pen to write down what you liked about your wine, but trust me...it can be very handy to refer back to when you need to remember what you sampled. At the very least, it is easy enough to snap a photo with your smart phone on the fly and research more afterwards. Then...

Share with friends

Wine makes things very easy when it comes to social sharing. Join Facebook groups, get on Twitter, take Instagram photos...get involved in the online community. Search hashtags on grape varieties and see what people are talking about. For example, #CabernetDay is taking place on August 31st. Share your favorite Cabernet and see what others are drinking and discussing on your favorite social media channels.

Have fun with it

I just outlined many ways you and/or friends can get introduced to wine and STAY with it. If that first wine you sample ends up turning you off, push the reset button and try again. One of the things you can always do to help yourself is get friendly with your local wine merchants. Talk to them about your experiences, and a reputable shop will be able to guide you to a style you have a good chance of enjoying. Getting into wine may not happen overnight, but if you have the interest and commitment to tasting and exploring, you will do just fine.

Happy exploring!

Building A Case...For A Few More Dollars

Earlier this week, I shared with you an easy strategy for building a case of wine that sought value and quality. Today, we take it to a different level. Assuming you have saved up your schillings, received a bonus, or just feel like spending money on wine, well I have a "version 2.0" guide for you when you are looking to find 12 tasty bottles. Whether you are dropping $10 or $100 a bottle on wine, I am always going to steer you to something that delivers high a quality-to-price ratio.

When you have extra money on-hand for that case, new doors open up not just at higher price points, but it gives you access to regions and styles that just aren't widely available in the $10 range. Here are some points of interest to consider when buying a mixed case of wine when money is less of an object, but not growing on trees by any means.

New Zealand has the highest average selling price per bottle of wine of any winemaking country. While there are some large brands that you can find in the $10-$12 range, there are many that exceed $15. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Gewurztraminer can all cost you. However, if you like the bold tropical zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc, or the clean, aromatic fruit in Gewurztraminer, now is the time to include a New Zealand wine.

Austrian wines command high prices with the precision and balance that shows in their wines. Grüner Veltliner has become quite popular and doesn't really grow anywhere else in the world, so again while there are some good entry-level wines in the $10-$12 neighborhood, go for a wine from a small producer that has complex citrusy/minerally/peppery flavors.

Wines from Burgundy can be very expensive, partially due to the fact that vineyard land is some of the most expensive in the world. Prime sites in many villages make long-lived wines, but there are also more accessible examples that don't require you to empty your bank account if you want to dive into Burgundy. Try Chardonnay wines from the Mâcon region in the south. Additionally, seek out the wines from a négociant to try any Burgundian region's typical style. Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, and Bouchard Pere et Fils are just a few of the larger examples that you should be able to find for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Oregon makes some outstanding wines, with Pinot Noir being the superstar of the Willamette Valley. Finding a good Pinot Noir in the sub-$20 range can be a challenge and many examples from Oregon start at about $20. Oregon tends to strike the right balance of fruitiness and earthiness.

Wines from Napa Valley aren't cheap, and if you like your red blends to be a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend a la Bordeaux, there are plenty to be found in the $20 and over range. If you had been purchasing some "everyday" Bordeaux reds in the $12 price point, shoot for the wines with a defined geography such as "Medoc" or "Saint-Emilion", which will cost a few dollars more, but it will give you a sense of what a wine tastes like when grown from vineyards within a smaller parcel of vineyards.

In the Rhone Valley, it's up to you if you want to shoot for Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage, as each of those wines will hit you for $40 and way upward in many cases. However, if you reach for some of the lesser-known subregions like "Gigondas" or "Crozes-Hermitage," you will pay a fraction of the price of their more expensive brethren. This is where chatting with your friendly local wine merchant will help you a lot.

In Italy, you can start checking out the great grape of Nebbiolo, famous in the Piedmont region and most notably in the sub-region of Barolo and Barbaresco. Like the two Rhone wines above, they can cost you plenty, but wines labeled "Nebbiolo d'Alba" or "Langhe Nebbiolo" will often encompass vineyards outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco communes, giving you something lighter in body, but more approachable in youth (which means you don't need to stick them in the cellar to evolve and harmonize).

Spanish wine's most popular export to the U.S. is wines from Rioja. Now is a great time to go for the wines with some extended oak aging. Look for wines labeled "Crianza," "Reserva," and "Gran Reserva," all of which will increase in price thanks to the amount of time spent in barrel. The great news about Rioja is that wines are always released ready to drink, needing no further aging if you don't want to stash them in the cellar.

Let's not forget the sparkling wine here, too! I'm not saying you have to shoot on up to Champagne, which is truly a delicious sparkling wine that deserves the recognition it gets. However, if you seek out "Crémant" wines, which are sparkling wines made in non-Champagne French regions the same way they are made in Champagne. A Crémant can be found for roughly half the price of a large Champagne house's flagship non-vintage wine for regions like Burgundy (Bourgogne), Limoux (Southern France), Alsace, and Loire.

If you are a Port or Sherry fan, go for a nice bottle of one of your favorite fortified wines. If you need something versatile to cook with as well as drink, an Amontillado Sherry is a nice buy here. As we approach fall, if you enjoy time in the kitchen there will be some recipes calling for a Port sauce. A Ruby Port is fiery and fruity enough to add flavor, but also a nice warming beverage on a chilly night. You can typically find an example of each Port and Sherry style for around $15. Each style also gives you a good baseline of what to expect from an individual producer if you were to venture into their other styles.

So here's what that case looks like if we take the items discussed above into account with specific products. Additionally, we will refer back to the Value Case we did earlier this week and use that as a springboard into other wines.

Marie-Pierre Manciat Crémant de Bourgogne ($23): A fine sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay in sustainable vineyards. Floral with orange and lemon peel aromas, peachy on the palate, and very lively with persistent bubbles. Killer value.

Weingut Loimer, Grüner Veltliner Langenlois ($19): Grüner Veltliner's peppery character is on display, with green apples, minerals, and soft herbs, along with a creamy texture. Finishes dry and refreshing! 

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($20): We have been seeing the price of the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc reach the $18-$19 price point over the last few years. For a buck or two more, it is worth your time and money to try this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, whose passionfruit and grapefruit character gets a boost of 

Cave de Lugny, Mâcon-Villages La Côte Blanche ($15): The thing I love about the Mâcon region is how it can be a great way to introduce you to Old World Chardonnay, while retaining riper stone fruit and tropical fruit flavors.

Fairview Cape Granite White Blend ($16): I can't help but be an advocate for South African wine. You tried the Tormentoso Chenin Blanc from the Value Case. For a few dollars more, try a white blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc for a full-bodied, wildly aromatic wine experience.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($25): Fresh red cherry fruit and red plums, with herbs, baking spices, and a touch of smoke. This is a great way to get introduced to an Oregon Pinot Noir if you haven't tried one before. If you have tried one, this has been a consistently good product from vintage to vintage.

Château Lanessan Haut-Medoc ($25, 2014 vintage): Bordeaux feels the impact of vintage variation more than most winemaking regions with its marginal climate. After a string of leaner, more traditional Bordeaux vintages (2011-2013), this 2014 from a solid property located in the upper Medoc peninsula gives you a wine loaded with black cherries and pipe tobacco, thyme, a touch of woody character.

Scavino Langhe Nebbiolo ($20): Nebbiolo's inherent flavors of red cherry fruit and roses are complemented by eucalyptus and tobacco. Nebbiolo can be forceful despite the pale ruby color; it is loaded with tannin and acid meant for long-haul aging, but in this more approachable version, the structural components are as intense thanks to shorter skin contact during fermentation. A great entryway to get to know Nebbiolo from a traditional producer. 

Martin Cendoya Rioja Reserva ($21): Dark berry fruit with earthiness and a noticeable oak component, which smooths out some harsh edges you can get from Tempranillo when it is young. Vanilla and a slight toffee note help illustrate the impact of 14 month barrel aging and additional time in bottle before being released to the market, ready to drink now.

Domaine du Terme Gigondas ($28): I picked this up for my birthday back in December. It is my favorite French red wine region. Neighbor of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas is based on Grenache, with small percentages of Syrah and Mourvedre added to the blend. Gigondas has offered more stability to me in terms of quality and price, whereas Chateauneuf-du-Pape can be all over the map. Fresh blackerry fruit, violets, and Herbes de Provence, show up in this wine that I really enjoyed on my big day.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec Reserva ($16): You got the introductory Malbec in the value case. Go back and get the Reserva, which spent 12 months in oak barrel and see what's different!

Quinta do Noval Fine Ruby Port ($17): A single estate Port (compared to a blend of estates produced by the larger companies), this is an easy one to carry in the cellar if you are a Port fan. Raspberry and blackberry fruit, but warming and well-balanced.

So total is $245. With a 10% discount and Connecticut sales tax, this is a $234.50 case, roughly twice the cost of our Value Case earlier in the week. If you had these 24 bottles lined up in your wine fridge/cellar, I think you are off to a heck of a start! Stay with me as we keep exploring. Send me feedback...let me know if you tasted ANY of these wines as I would love to know what you think.

Until next time...

Building A Case For Value

It's not that often these days where I am actively working the sales floor at the store. However in the past and when I help out on the big holidays at Divine Wine, a customer presents me the following:

"Hi! I would like to buy a case of wine, but I am not sure what I want. Can you help me?"

Yes! This is what I do. It's my livelihood. I always get excited at the opportunity to send customers home with 12 bottles of wine that (hopefully) they will enjoy with friends, family, colleagues, or just by themselves on a random Wednesday night.

Now, there is a key component to the statement above: "I am not sure what I want." In general, wine drinkers know what they like, but in this instance I get the impression that my customers are hesitant to step outside of their comfort zone. After all, they are buying a full case of wine so people are investing their hard-earned dollars in me and my recommendations. Of course if you choose to make your own choices, which you are perfectly capable of doing, I won't treat you as if you were having a touch time choosing a dozen donuts:

No matter whether you decide to choose specific wines on your own or ask me for help, I have a way for you to structure how you go about purchasing a case of wine. For today, I am focusing on the everyday/value bottles. Consider this to be the $120-$150 range when all is said and done. Keep in mind that many retailers will take anywhere from 10-20% off of a purchase of a case of wine with the ability to mix and match how you see fit. Let's dive into some things to consider when building your case from a perspective of seeking value.

Find your brands:

As much as I love to show you something from a small artisanal producer from some remote corner of France, the fact is that your larger, well-known brands will be easy to come by. Additionally, depending on the size of the retail store, their purchasing power will dictate how low they can keep prices. So you might encounter that Alamos Malbec, Blackstone Merlot, Concha y Toro Chilean red blend for a very inexpensive price already, all of which make great house wines or something you can offer a guest at a party who is looking to have something familiar. You can score some of your favorite brands for as little as $7 per bottle in some places. However...

Include some lesser-known regions and grape varieties:

Know what Corbieres is? In context of this post, who cares? Just know that some great Cinsault-based pink wine is being made here for $12.

If you are shopping at a good store offering the combination of knowledgeable and friendly customer service, chances are high that the overwhelming majority of wines on the shelves will be at minimum, drinkable and at best, very exciting. So if you see a red wine from Portugal made with Touriga Nacional for $10, grab it. A rosé from Languedoc, France made with Cinsault for $12? Get it. A South African Chenin Blanc for $10? Go for it. There are tons of examples from Italy and Spain, too. Piedmont and Tuscany get tons of love (and accompanying higher prices to match) in Italy, but Puglia, Sicily, and the Veneto regions can frequently offer you significant value. Additionally, Spain still has an incredible quality-to-price ratio, maybe the best of any country right now. There is a ton to choose from.

Find "declassified" wines from a European producer:

Naming conventions and labeling rules for wines in Europe will often refer to a geography, which is most evident in the wines of France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. Lets say you have a producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a specific wine zone in the Rhône Valley of France with a set of rules for making wine. Chances are that the same producer might make a wine from a larger area, different grape varieties than are permitted in the "Grand Vin" of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or less stringent production rules to make a Côtes du Rhône wine, costing you a fraction of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Côtes du Rhône is a broader geographical area with more flexibility in rules for producing wines.

Another example comes from the Loire Valley. Sancerre's white wines are made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc in the Sancerre region. However, if the wine is made from vines outside of Sancerre, or don't adhere to technical aspects like vine age or yield control, then the wine might be labeled "Vin de France Sauvignon Blanc" such as the example below from Domaine de la Perriere.

Both wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the same property owner, but the Sancerre is costing you $25. The one labeled Sauvignon Blanc? $10. This is a great way to go value-hunting. It might take a little digging around and a bit of research, but finding this kind of information will help save you several dollars.

Don't forget sparkling wine!

Look, we can't drink Champagne all the time, nor should Champagne and other sparkling wines only be reserved for special occasions. A bottle of bubbly as part of your case is a must-have. Best of all, you can find a fruity sparkling wine like Prosecco, or you can find Cava (Spain's sparkling wine made using Champagne's process, but with native grape varieties) can often be found at a bargain. For less than $15, you can spot one of each without a problem. Then you can pop the cork anytime you see fit, because you will have a bottle on-hand and ready to go, special occasion to celebrate, or not.

Why don't we do this...let's take some of these wines and stick them in the box. Then we'll add a few more, total it up, and you will see how you can build your mixed case of goodies to take home. Prices are approximate, and I will use 10% as the case discount as a conservative estimate. These are all wines I have tried and would recommend to anyone looking for a solid variety pack case that includes many styles of wines.

Mionetto Il Prosecco Brut, $11, a simple, easy-drink bottle of fruity sparkler, great for casual parties and Mimosas.

Fonseca Twin Vines Vinho Verde, $8, Vinho Verde is a light, low-alcohol, slightly fizzy citrusy wine from the northeastern corner of Portugal.

La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc, $10, this is the declassified Sancerre from above

Cantine Paolini Sicilia Pinot Grigio, $10, this Sicilian Pinot Grigio has some flavor to it, with melon and tropical fruit.

Tormentoso Old Vine Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc, $13, try some Chenin Blanc as a Chardonnay alternative, plus a wine from South Africa. A region and a grape that deserves your love and attention.

Domaine Sainte Eugenie Corbieres Rose, $12, an unbelievably fruit-but-dry rose wine from southern France. Provence, for all of its delicate fruit and herbs that I really enjoy, does not have the fruit-forwardness of this wine.

Parolvini Barone Nero Veneto Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Malbec), $12, an interesting blend that includes the native northeastern Italian variety of Refosco, which has a leathery, violet-scented character. It plays so well with the deep, dark fruit of the other two grapes, and it's not every day you see Malbec being grown in Italy.

Azul Portugal Douro Red Blend, $11, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. All of these grapes go into Port wines, but when vinified as a dry wine, it gives you plenty of structure and fruit with a bit of smokiness.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec, $11, there is a proliferation of Argentine Malbecs out there, and for the money Bousquet delivers so well.

Bodegas Atalaya Almansa Laya Red Blend, $10, this is a blend of Monastrell (a powerful, dense, chewy high-alcohol red wine variety), and Garnacha Tintorera (one of the few red varieties whose pulp and juice is red also).

Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo Winemaker's Red Blend, $10, an easy-drinking staple in the large Chilean Concha y Toro winery's lineup. Fresh black fruit, licorice, and a touch of green bell pepper.

Gnarly Head 1924 Lodi Red Blend, $10, an opulent, blackberry jam and raisiny wine that is very soft on the palate.

Total for the 12 wines is $128. Take 10% off, and that's $115.20. Connecticut sales tax is 6.35%, so that gets us to a grand total of $122.52. That puts us in the lower range of what I categorized above. You are getting a nice spread of regions and grape varieties in this, too. Keep in mind that I have also listed these in order of how you might want to taste them if you were to do an absurd 12-bottle flight!

Hopefully, this gives you a great starting point in building your own case, but as always you know where to find me if you have questions. Good luck!

What Is New Zealand's Second Act? It's On You To Decide.

In our house, Sauvignon Blanc is our front-runner for our go-to white wine. We have not met a world winemaking region or style of Sauvignon Blanc that we did not enjoy to some degree. Yes, we have long been champions the Loire Valley of France, with one appellation situated squarely at the top of the list. We have found plenty of examples from Bordeaux, California, Chile, and South Africa that we like, but there is a remote part of the globe whose Sauvignon Blanc makes a great case to be invited to the party at all times: New Zealand.

While the oldest vineyards in New Zealand only date back to the 1850s, it wasn't until 1979 when Montana Wines (known to you today as Brancott Estate) produced a Sauvignon Blanc that was accepted by many wine critics as being a high-quality, unique expression of the grape variety. It was pungent and aromatic with the zesty acidity found in the European style, but there were also tropical and exotic fruit flavors accompanying the "green" aggressiveness typically associated with Sauvignon Blanc. It became an instant hit with its overt fruitiness that appealed to the international palate, and the arrow has never pointed higher in the trend of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Tamatoa (voiced by New Zealand native Jemaine Clement) know that while Sauvignon Blanc is the "shiny" grape variety, don't forget about the others offered by New Zealand's wine producers! Image credit: Disney Wiki

With that being said, Sauvignon Blanc makes up 72% of New Zealand's wine production and 86% of its export market. When I read these figures, it made me wonder what the future holds for the New Zealand wine industry. With so much riding on the success of one grape variety, is that going to be sustainable, or is New Zealand in desperate need of a second act, just in case the fortunes of Sauvignon Blanc go south? Let's take a look at some of the other grape varieties that New Zealand is working with these days and begin to dive into what else New Zealand can offer us.

Pinot Noir:

While sitting at a distant second place in the pecking order, Pinot Noir (9% of total production) is being groomed to be the next great grape in New Zealand. Marlborough, the region that has become synonymous with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, has the most plantings of Pinot Noir in the country. However, some of the greatest potential is being discussed further south on the South Island in the Central Otago region, where it is cooler and more mountainous, but the sunny days are what becomes key to Pinot Noir's success. On the fruitiness scale, in general, I put most New Zealand Pinot Noir in between Burgundy (earthy and structured) and Oregon (fresh red berry fruit and vibrant acidity).

Chardonnay:

Hey, just about any winemaking region in the world has plantings of Chardonnay. It can express itself in so many ways, take to different levels of oak treatment, and pair with a wide range of foods. In New Zealand, Hawke's Bay and Gisborne, two coastal regions on the warmer North Island, are making some shimmering examples of delicate, well-balanced Chardonnay. There are even some good ones coming from Kumeu, all the way up north near the city of Auckland, that display very rich, nutty flavors that I would put up against some California expressions any day.

Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer:

The aromatic Alsatian white varieties show excellent potential, too. Pinot Gris isn't as full bodied as it is in Alsace, but does have a silkiness that is very fruity (think golden apples and peaches here) when grown up on the North Island. On the South Island, Pinot Gris expresses itself bright and zesty with citrus fruit flavor. New Zealand Rieslings, mainly from the South Island, have peach and apricot prevailing further north on the island. As you make your way to the Canterbury region and even Central Otago, you get these lime/green apple notes with a lightning bolt of acidity that is tempered by a touch of sweetness. Gewürztraminer shows the typical floral/tropical fruit profile as it does in most parts of the world working with this grape. However, it is not as intense coming from New Zealand; instead I notice a fresh ginger spiciness tends to show, which I really enjoy.

Bordeaux-style Red Blends:

The typical Bordeaux recipe has been Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. With New Zealand's South Island being to cool to ripen these varieties, the North Island (and most notably, Hawke's Bay) is going to be warm enough to allow these grapes to thrive. Merlot has been more successful than Cabernet Sauvignon, in general, and acidity is quite noticeable to go along with the red berry and cherry fruit and a touch of herbaceous notes. There aren't a ton of these available at the moment, but don't be surprised if you start seeing Merlot-Cabernet blends on your shelves soon.

Syrah:

Produced in very small quantity, but slowly making it to the U.S. market, Hawke's Bay has some vineyard area devoted to making lean, fresh blackberry-scented, floral, and peppery wines from Syrah grapes. It's a different style from what you might be used to in France, Australia, or the other regions in the Southern Hemisphere, but it is uniquely savory. As winemakers work more with the grape, expect more examples to slowly appear in your stores.

So what will it be that supplements Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand? Well, the truth is that it is you who will decide what the future holds. The reasons you read this blog is because, like me, you enjoy exploring wines that may not be in your traditional comfort zone. I have a flight of New Zealand wine that you should get your hands on. The more you expose yourself to different styles, the easier it is to give feedback to your retailers, who can then keep bringing in interesting wines like the ones below. Help shape the fortunes of the next great grape of New Zealand...but of course, keep reaching for the Sauvignon Blanc in the process (it still tastes really good, too!).

Kumeu River "Kumeu Village" Chardonnay ($18): 25% of the Chardonnay juice is fermented in barrel while the bulk of it is done in stainless steel. A small amount of oak treatment afterwards rounds the wine a little bit, so acidity isn't super-high. You are left with a wine tasting of lemon curd, peaches, green figs, and hazelnuts. Delicious with a white fish stew.

Lawson's Dry Hills Gewürztraminer ($19): Medium-bodied with plenty of tropical and exotic fruit, along with the ginger aromas and flavor I discussed above. Acidity is higher in this one than, say, something I would taste from Alsace. This is great with a red curry duck or pork dish.

Matua Marlborough Pinot Noir ($17): Matua is a well-known winery, who has a great way to introduce yourself to this style of Pinot Noir. Fresh and vibrant with red berry fruit and a touch of savory earthiness. 

If It Grows Together, It Goes Together: South Africa Edition

Long, long ago, in a time period seemingly far, far away, The Greatest Wife In The World arranged wine dinners with her friends from college, accompanied by husbands. It was a great reason to get together when our busy lives took us in so many directions. The common link among us all was a love of food and beverage, as well as open-minded exploration of our tastes and preferences.

The group would agree on a winemaking region anywhere in the world to showcase. The host site would prepare the main course based on the cuisine of this chosen region, while the other couples brought an appetizer and a dessert. My job, no matter who hosted, was to choose wines to pair with each course and present them. This was great for me as I was just diving into wine school, and our friends were able to help me study through practical application...all of whom were very happy to oblige.

So one day we got adventurous, testing our culinary and sensory limits with a South African-themed wine dinner. Now, we were all good-to-great home cooks, but we have never taken a dive into a culture as distinct as South Africa when it comes to food and wine. A fun challenge was upon us!

Also note that The Greatest Wife In The World and I had a not-so-awesome experience with South African wine the first time we tried it. Back in the early 2000s, South African wines were not widely available, and quality levels were all over the map. I can't remember for the life of me who the producer was, but we picked out a wine made from the Pinotage grape, a red crossing of the Burgundian Pinot Noir with the Rhône variety Cinsault (known as "Hermitage" in South Africa).

(Editor's Note: Educational tangent coming up, just in case you need a quick and dirty overview of the Pinotage grape variety.)

The creator of Pinotage, Prof. Abraham Perold

In 1925, Professor Abraham Perold came up with the idea of this crossing to help Pinot Noir thrive in South Africa as well as Cinsault already did. Early versions of this wine, including the one we tasted about 15 years ago, often smelled of nail polish remover and bananas; ours actually tasted like bacon-flavored Band-Aids with no fruit whatsoever. It was one of the few wines I ever poured down the drain. When we did this wine dinner circa 2010, we knew the signature variety of Pinotage had to be included. Maybe it would be different this time around. Besides, are we really going to let one rough experience prevent us from trying it again?

I chose a bottle of Southern Right Pinotage from Hamilton Russell Vineyards to go with our main course; our hosts prepared spiced grilled lamb skewers with a side of South African yellow rice with raisins. I had been given some encouraging data that this was going to be much better than what I tasted several years prior. Pinotage is just going to be an unusual wine that will be polarizing for a crowd. I was able to taste some berry fruit, but I still noticed the somewhat aggressive acidity and tannin when sipping it on its own after opening the bottle. Others in the group enjoyed that structural sensation, while the remainder (including The Greatest Wife In The World) did not really care for it.

South African yellow rice: a key to unlocking the fruitiness of Pinotage. A match made in heaven with the Southern Right Pinotage (below). A solid recipe can be found here if you want to give it a shot! Image credit: Allrecipes.com

When the love of my life excused herself from the table to change our son's diaper, she returned to hear a chorus of oohs and aahs from all of us. We all informed her that she had to try the Pinotage with the food. She thought we were all messing with her, trying to get her to drink a wine she wasn't too pleased with. However, after a little nudging she gave it a shot with the lamb and the rice...and she was in agreement with the crowd.

This experience could not have been a better lesson when it comes to food and wine pairing; if the wine grapes and the food grow together, chances are they will go together at the dinner table. The Pinotage's acrid aspects (more prominent for some than others) dissipated and the wine was bursting with raspberries, cranberries, pomegranates, and just about any other red fruit you could name, along with wild herbs. Of particular note, the yellow rice (made with turmeric, ginger, a little sugar, and raisins) brought out a range of spices in the wine along with the red fruits. The gamey, wild flavors of lamb were tamed a little when wine was consumed along with it; I remember noticing a pronounced cardamom spice. It was stunning.

Intense, exotic, pungent aromas and flavors in food need wines with a lot of character. With South Africa possessing an enormous spectrum of spices in its cuisine, their wines are designed for just that, along with any smoky flavors developed from grilling your animal protein of choice. Aromas are frequently intense, fruit flavors are ripe, but not as opulent as many New World examples; there are other herbaceous, savory, and floral notes accompanying the fruit that give an Old World/European feel to the wines.

Here are three wines that will help you get to know South Africa a little more.

Tormentoso Chenin Blanc ($13): When I first opened this, the aromas made me think of a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, with peaches, apricot, herbs, and earthy tones on the nose. On the palate, it was a different story. This was all tropical fruit (papaya, pineapple, and mango). The pineapple even tasted like it was candied!

Charles Back Fairview Pinotage ($15): If you ever need a way to get comfortable with the Pinotage grape, here is a good way to do it. The Southern Right we had at the dinner was delicious, but it pushes the $20 mark. For $5 less, Fairview gives you raspberry, fresh thyme, black pepper, and a slightly smoky finish. The tannins are gentler than what is typical of Pinotage in this expression. No bacon-flavored Band-Aids in this one, for certain!

Stark-Condé Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon ($19): The Stellenbosch region of South Africa is similar to California's Napa Valley, where Bordeaux varieties rule the vineyards. It tastes like blackberries dipped in dark chocolate, with some English Breakfast tea and woody notes, backed up with just enough acidity to keep the wine balanced.

Back to Basics: Premium Blends Around The World

You may have noticed that a lot of my posts have been of the exotic variety of late. Aside from recapping vacation adventures, I have gone into great detail on cocktails, plenty of spirits, and unusual grape varieties. So today, it's time to ease up on the gas a little and get back to basics with some good straight-up wine discussion. In this edition of Flight School, I share with you some classic and interesting red and white blends of which I have really received a high level of enjoyment from.

Franciscan Estate Winery does a blending class on-site, but we were fortunate to get one of their blending kits for our classroom. Image credit: Franciscan Estate

At the store, we once ran a blending session using Franciscan Estate's "Magnificat" as our reference point, a kit that is sold by the winery. It is a lot of fun to take the five grapes from the Magnificat (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec) and create your own wine in the proportions you see fit. Tasting your own "Franken-wine" alongside the Magnificat is a great practical exercise in how the different grape varieties play off of one another.

When it comes to wine blends, remember that there is always a method to the madness. While it used to be that some producers would just throw disorganized grapes into the fermentation vats and make a wine from them, individual grape varieties are bringing something to the party. The goal is for the grapes to work in harmony to achieve a desired style. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for example, have long been partners in Bordeaux wines; Cabernet's "structure" (acid, tannin, and aromatics) have often been a foil for Merlot's plush texture and ripe fruit flavor. However, one can also amplify a specific characteristic in a blend. In an example like this, A Merlot-Malbec blend in Argentina will feel ultra-soft on your palate with very ripe fruit flavors since the two grapes have some marked similarities.

I have three whites and three reds for you to try that have been recent favorites of mine. None of these break the bank and provide you with casual, yet interesting wines to enjoy.

The White Wine Flight

Wieninger Wiener Gemischter Satz ($20): You may remember me mentioning "Gentil" blends as a way to get introduced to the grapes of Alsace, France. Gemischter Satz is a similar concept in Austria. This particular blend is mostly Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, Welschriesling, and Chardonnay, but there are smaller proportions of many local varieties like Riesling, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Sylvaner, Traminer, Neuberger. The producer refers to this as "All of Vienna in One Wine." This is aromatic and fresh with delicate citrus and stone fruits, along with some minerally/earthy notes. Perfect with lighter seafood dishes or as a counter to Wiener Schnitzel!

Domaine Lafage Côtes Catalanes "Côté Est" ($14): The Côtes Catalanes region of France near the Spanish border is delivering great value with these unique blends of native and international varieties. Côté Est uses Grenache Blanc (popular for its body, alcohol, and tropical fruit), Roussanne (a high-acid aromatic white grape of the Rhône Valley) and the well-known Chardonnay. The end result is a vibrant, yet creamy white wine with pineapple, apricot, and wild herbs.

Castellargo Friuli Grave "Albus" ($16): Friuli is tucked away in the far northeast of Italy, touching the Austrian and Slovenian borders. Native grape Friulano is blended in near equal proportions with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to create a pungent citrus, herbaceous, earthy wine with some texture on the palate and a slightly floral nose. Delicious with a pasta of fresh herbs and green veggies.

The Red Wine Flight

Viberti Langhe "Dolbà" Rosso ($16): The "Dolbà" refers to the blend of Dolcetto (40%) and Barbera (60%). Dolcetto (translates to "the little sweet one") when fully ripened gives you wines with dark berry, almost jammy fruit that has some tannin and strong aromatics. Barbera is the workhorse grape of the Piedmont area, and in this case provides plenty of acid and fresh red cherry fruit to counter the Dolcetto. A wonderful pizza wine!

Domaine de la Solitude Côtes du Rhône ($18): Solitude is a well-regarded producer of the ageworthy Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In some ways, this is the "baby version" of their flagship wine. 50% Grenache (for body and berry fruit flavor), 30% Syrah (for dark, earthy fruit, acid, and tannin), 15% Cinsault (for juicy red raspberry fruit and acid), and 5% Carignan (for additional "structure" such as acid and tannin). What you get is a well-balanced, versatile red blend that goes great with anything from a burger in summertime to a hearty stew in winter.

Graffigna Centenario Elevation San Juan Red Blend ($14): This is a blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec (both well-suited for many Argentine wines), Syrah, Tannat (an old Southwestern French grape that actually thrives in neighboring Uruguay!) and Bonarda (a fruity red grape that gets lost in the shuffle at times). Tannat's structural and dark fruit content are very high, and Bonarda's fruitiness and full body help counter the aggressiveness of Tannat (which takes its name from "tannin"). The Syrah actually adds a touch of smokiness to the finished wine, too. Sear a cut of red meat, pour a glass of the Elevation, and be happy!

Raise A Glass To Freedom: What To Drink On Independence Day

As you know, I spend a lot of time on this blog promoting the virtues of adult beverages from all over the world. You have seen all kinds of unique grape varieties show up in wines I want you to check out from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, South America, and all throughout Europe. There is an enormous range of spirits out there; you can find plenty of whisk(e)y and vodka from just about any country, and you know how highly I have spoken of Tequila and Gin, too. I am even trying to be good about giving beer some love here on top of all of that.

But as we approach The United States of America's 241st birthday, it's time to celebrate in style with some fine native drinks. America was founded on being bold and daring; I do that here by getting you to consider drinking something you may never have thought to seek out on your own. Yet for this celebration, I want you to stay close to home. Drink something from America with bold flavors! Chances are, those intense flavors are going to play nicely with your barbecues this long weekend. For instance...

Wine fans: drink up our classic regions like Napa Valley, which put the United States on the map for serious wine production. Live on the East Coast? Now is a good time to try something from New York or Virginia. Additionally, try one of your local wines; maybe it isn't even made from grapes. For instance, when I worked in New Jersey, blueberry and cranberry wines were very popular for casual wine lovers.

Whiskey fans: nothing is more American than Bourbon. It can't be made in any other country and call itself "Bourbon." You could even take things a step further with Rye whiskey, which was very popular way back in the Colonial days in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Not a whiskey fan, but you like spirits? There is nothing wrong with spiking your beverage with some local craft gin, rum, or vodka

Beer fans: you have more choice than ever before when it comes to craft beer. Again, seek out a local brewery, or if you want to play to the American Revolution, Sam Adams has always delivered for me when I get paralyzed by choices.

I am going to give you an option in each category and share a cocktail that we love making at this time of year. Have a friend in North Carolina or Washington state? Raise a glass to them. Have an enemy in Texas or Illinois? Raise a glass to those folks, too. Chances are that while they are driving you crazy, they are helping you stay on your toes. With that, have a safe 4th of July holiday and enjoy these beverages responsibly.

7 Moons California Red Blend ($12): I poured this at our store's 15th Anniversary Tasting and it went over incredibly well thanks to its jammy red and black fruit along touch of vanilla and spice. This is made up of seven grape varieties: Zinfandel, Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec. It's a tasty "wine stew" that will go very well with a simple beef burger.

Russell's Reserve 10 Year Old Bourbon ($40) and 6 Year Rye ($40): Go big, or go home. Part of the Wild Turkey range, Russell's Reserve has bold flavor, spiciness and richness. The Bourbon is like caramel-coated cherries and vanilla. I enjoy the citrusy aromatic intensity of the 6 Year Rye on its own, but mixed with equal parts Regatta Ginger Beer, it is a simple cocktail to help you beat the heat.

Two Roads No Limits Hefeweizen ($8/4-pack of 16 oz cans): Some love for a Connecticut brewery! The Hefeweizen is great for the summer with just 5% abv, tropical fruit flavor and a refreshing citrus kick on the finish.

Here is the cocktail we love at this time of year: Rosé, Bourbon, and Blue, which comes from Bon Appetit's The Grilling Book, an unbelievable book I received one Father's Day that has killer food recipes and some interesting cocktails (non-alcoholic versions, too!). Even if you aren't a Bourbon fan, I will bet you anything that you will enjoy this.

Ingredients (Makes 8 cocktails):

7 Tbsp raw sugar

2 cups fresh blueberries, divided

The finished product.

2 cups freshly brewed unsweetened black tea (orange pekoe is highly recommended)

1.5 cups of fruity rosé wine (We used 90+ Cellars Languedoc rosé for $9.99, but a rosé from the Navarra region of Spain works nicely here, too. Sorry...we included something non-American.)

1 cup Bourbon (Our choice was Knob Creek 100 Proof. It's loaded with flavor and stands up to all the ingredients you will be adding)

3/4 cup fresh lemon juice

8 lemon slices

Stir sugar with 7 Tbsp hot water in a small bowl until sugar is dissolved; transfer to a food processor. Add 1.5 cups blueberries and purée until smooth. Set a fine mesh strainer over a large pitcher. Strain blueberry mixture, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. Add tea, rosé, Bourbon, and lemon juice. Chill for at least 2 hours.

Cut remaining blueberries in half; add to pitcher. Fill Old-Fashioned glasses (or any sturdy glasses) with ice. Divide cocktail among glasses and garnish with lemon slices.

Ask Tony: To Chill Or Not To Chill?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

We are finally about to hit some real summer weather again. I find that when temperatures go up, the preferences for an alcoholic beverage are all over the map. Some just want an ice cold beer. Others like a cocktail (Gin and Tonic or a Margarita, anyone?). Perhaps a little vodka or Bourbon on the rocks on a muggy summer evening. There is really no argument here with any of those choices.

Then there is wine. White wine can provide a foil for the heat with a vibrant, refreshing quality. However, if you are outside grilling, higher alcohol, bolder red wines will make better partners with your food, even if it is not ideal for some in the warm weather. When I talk to fellow wine lovers, I am frequently asked how to treat them as far as temperature goes:

Should I chill this?

How long should I put this in the fridge?

Is it wrong to put an ice cube in this?

We don't ever chill red wine, do we?

Allow me to share a relevant story with you. Years ago, I went to one of my first WSET wine classes to be introduced to all of the basics of wine, including storage and service. I received two white wines and was instructed to smell, taste, and write down notes about flavors and aromas. One tasted of pears and apples and felt more acidic. The other sort of peachy and softer. When it was all said and done, it turns out both wines were the same exact wine (an Italian Pinot Grigio)...one served three degrees cooler than the other.

That was my first introduction to the importance of serving temperature; this is an aspect of wine drinking that should not be overlooked. Because of that experience, I completely understood why I was asked so many questions later on in my wine and spirits career.

There is such an enormous range of styles out there. Wines can be light or full-bodied. There are reds, whites, and rosés. Some are sparkling, others are fortified. Wines might be very high in acid, fruit, or tannin, and what about sweet wines? With seemingly infinite types of wine to choose from, you will discover that serving certain wines in a temperature range will maximize your sensory experience. Let's lay out some simple guidelines (with some of my favorite wines' labels sprinkled throughout:

White is cooler than red

Not more fashionable. Cooler in temperature. White wines in general are lighter in body than reds. There are also more high-acid white wines than reds. Reds have tannins that are not in white wines. If an acidic white wine is served too warm, it tastes flabby and boring. If a high-tannin red wine is served too cold, the mouth-puckering tannins are amplified, making the wine too astringent and tough. Generally speaking when in doubt, chill the white, keep the red out on the counter.

Aromatic wines of any color like the cold

Now, this is something that requires some exploration and familiarity (which I can help you with). Some grape varieties jump out of the glass at your nose, others are more restrained. For white wines, the Alsatian white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer all benefit from temperatures (43-46F). Sauvignon Blanc, white Burgundy/Old World Chardonnays, and Viognier also benefit in this temperature range, too.

Red wines like Gamay (Beaujolais) and Cabernet Franc (from New York or Loire Valley of France) are very fragrant and fruity and pay you back when served around 50-54F. These are also light in tannin, so no worries about astringency wrecking your palate. This temperature range also works well for many New World Chardonnays. Just stick a room temperature wine of these varieties in the fridge for 20-30 minutes and you will get close. 

Treat rosés like white wines

If you are serving rosés, treat them as a white wine. Rosés are just red grapes that were treated in the way white wines are produced. Cold temperatures bring out the strawberry/watermelon aromas commonly found in these wines.

Low-to-medium tannin wines should feel cool to the touch

Pinot Noir can show itself light and juicy (in the vain of Gamay above), or full-bodied and chewy. Get to know what type of Pinot Noir you are working with. Fancy Premier or Grand Cru Burgundy shouldn't be served too cool, but casual California, Oregon, New Zealand or Chilean Pinot Noir should get 15-20 minutes in the fridge. Basic Chianti, inexpensive Bordeaux, and Côtes du Rhône wines are other examples of wines that should feel cool to the touch when you grab the bottle.

"Room temperature" for high-tannin reds

By room temperature, we are talking 64F-68F and that's on the very cool side of what most people find bearable in their homes. However, this is the temperature that wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo-based wines show their best. The tannins feel soft and mature at this temperature and makes for a better tasting experience than throwing these in the cooler. If you have a wine fridge or cellar that you keep around 58F, just take out the wine and set it on the counter for 30 minutes and you should be good to go. If it is a particularly hot day and you are drinking outside, there is nothing wrong with throwing one of these wines into an ice bucket.

Chill sweet white wines

Sweet white wines suffer from the same issue as the high acid white wines when served too warm, but throw in the residual sugar that gives the impression of a sticky, cloying sensation that makes these wines not as enjoyable as they should be. Sweet Rieslings (Finger Lakes, Germany, Austria, etc), and Chenin Blanc (Loire) will taste so much better when served cold. The acids come to life and balance the fruitiness and sweetness.

Others

Champagne and other sparkling wines should be well-chilled. Fruity sparklers like Prosecco and Cava in particular benefit the most from being in 40F temperature, while most non-vintage Champagne should be a few degrees warmer.

Fino and Manzanilla Sherry, Tawny Ports all should be chilled as well.

Sweet red wines like Ruby and Vintage Ports will have some tannins, so keep these at room temperature.

One other tip: to quickly chill wine, make sure your bucket has both water and ice in it. The laws of heat transfer will get your wine chilled in about 15 minutes. It will take two or three times longer in just a bucket of ice.

Here's what you can do for your flight. Pick up a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc and a Tuscan or California red blend. Taste each one at room temperature. Then stick the bottles in your fridge for 30-60 minutes and see how the wines change if you think temperature doesn't matter.

Just do me one favor: if you are going to drop an ice cube into your wine, give me a heads-up so I can look the other way. I won't tell anyone if you do.

Tall Tales Of Boozery: Summer Is The Only Time For Rosé

A lot of myths are floating around out there, many of which are just trivial common misconceptions. They don't necessarily matter, but still these things are just untrue beliefs: bulls hate the color red (nope, they're color blind) and Napoleon is short (5'7" was above average height in France). Others can impact health: don't wake up a sleepwalker (no, don't let them unknowingly hurt themselves) and alcohol will "warm you up" (alcohol actually drops your core temperature). Even "Fake News" has somehow become a thing (and a rabbit hole that I am not going down here).

Then we have the inexplicable myths, and one in the adult beverage business in particular that gets to me: rosé wine is a "summer" wine. You might be saying, "Hey...aren't you the guy who just gave me whiskies to drink when the seasons change?" or "Didn't you just tell us Grüner Veltliner is a good wine for springtime?" Why dispel a myth about seasonal drinking?

Yes and yes, and I did just shamelessly redirect you to two of my other pages to remind you that I did refer to some of these items. You know what? I'm guilty as charged. I tend to fall into this seasonal pattern of drinking, but to be fair I never said it was the right way or the only way to drink.

By the way, I do understand the allure of these pink wines when it's warm outside! Rosé plays well with a lot of different foods. Rosé's fruitiness is enhanced when chilled and has a thirst-quenching quality (even if we should be hydrating with water). You can turn cheap versions into pitchers of sangria.

However, rosé wines can be seductive at Valentine's Day. They can pull the Thanksgiving table together. They can work at a cocktail party on a random Saturday in October or as a killer sparkling wine with tapas at a restaurant on a night out in January. They work with the tricky rich and salty combination of foods like baked ham or "green" foods.

I believe that this "rosé is for summer" myth sprouted once rosé from the Provence region of France became very popular. Provençal rosé is light, dry, delicate, and delicious with light appetizers, salads, and seafood...things we tend to eat more of on warm days. The Provence style is an easy crowd-pleaser as you can satisfy a range of palates for a gathering. But what if you eat light year-round? What if you are a ravenous carnivore, whether you are outside grilling or pan-searing indoors? How about those winter holiday parties? If you are anything like my family in December, you would think we have 75 people coming over. There is more than light and delicate rosé out there.

Quick educational tangent: most times rosé wine is white winemaking with red grape varieties. Gently crush grapes, let the white juice run out into a tank, allow a short period of skin contact (to achieve desired color), and drain pink juice to a stainless steel tank ready for fermentation.

So maybe it's time I re-evaluate my own wine buying and drinking choices. Who says you can't have rosé at any time of year? Now is the perfect time to get tasting all the styles of rosé wine. Your retailer is getting them in on their shelves. You can ask for something you don't see and a good shop will be able to turn your request around in a day or two (assuming the distributor has the wine in stock or available to sell in your state of residence).

Let's stop making "rosé in summer" like "don't wear white after Labor Day." Here is a recommendation for several of styles of rosé out there, including a little bubbly. Just make sure you and I keep the momentum going together through September and beyond.

Mont Marçal Cava Rosado ($18)

This is a sparkling wine made from Trepat, a red Catalan grape variety that is well-suited for rosé winemaking thanks to its berry-scented fruitiness. This example has a strawberry jam on toast flavor that would make a great counterpoint to salty-umami appetizers featuring anchovies or capers.

Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence ($15)

A classic, moderately-priced rosé that we have consistent success with at the store. This is a traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre that balances fresh red berry fruit with acidity. The ruby red grapefruit note in this wine is enhanced with a green salad with a basic vinaigrette. 

Adelsheim Willamette Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir ($17)

Now we start moving into wines with more body and texture. Adelsheim makes exquisite red wines from Pinot Noir, but their rosé bursts with strawberries and nectarines. The balance of body and acidity leads to food versatility and is a great match with more substantial dishes like poached chicken, baked ham or even a roast turkey.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec-Cabernet Rosado ($12)

Bousquet's wines come from vineyards situated at absurd altitudes (over 4,000 feet above sea level), leading to grapes with high acid and deep color. The Malbec gives soft ripe berry fruit while the Cabernet contributes lively cherry fruit. I like this with a sturdy fish, such as tuna or swordfish with soft green herbs, or roast pork.

Peter Zemmer Alto Adige Lagrein ($19)

Lagrein is a variety that thrives in the northeast of Italy, giving wines with intense violet aromatics and dark berry fruit. When made as a rosé in this example from Peter Zemmer, the flavors are more cherry and raspberry-scented with rose petals and wild herbs. There is even a slight tannic bitterness that adds to the overall flavor. Our salesperson described this as a "steak wine" and I can't say I disagree! This is a perfect rosé to enjoy with red meat.

Ham vs. Lamb: The Great Easter Battle

Up here in New England, we got our first real taste of springtime over the weekend and I know those south of here are actually going to experience something more summer-like to start the week. With the warmth, barrage of blooming vegetation and subsequent allergies comes Easter Sunday, a very important holiday for the Christian/Catholic community.

Easter (along with Passover) signal a bit of a change in our eating habits. We finally find some quality seasonal produce from our grocers and markets. Along comes the desire for lighter, fresher meals with vibrant flavors that are a contrast from the heavy stews and roasts (though not totally eliminated). Perhaps if you are not a year-round grilling person, you might be firing up the Weber in the coming days. Our (OK...my) drinking preferences change, too. the big, tannic red wines and rich white wines are exchanged for lighter reds, leaner whites, and perhaps a little rosé (by the way, you will notice a theme of "transition" being hammered home in this week's posts). A change of pace is good for all of us; it keeps us on our toes.

If you are celebrating Easter with a big feast, chances are a baked ham or a cut of lamb will be your dinner table's centerpiece. Based on what direction you go in, you have subcategories of each. Is your ham smoked, or honey-glazed? Are you have leg of lamb, rack of lamb, or grilled lamb chops? With these decisions come wine choices. Different styles and grape varieties are going to impact your palate based on your meat selection.

Generally speaking, ham has a rich texture with a sweet/salty flavor profile. When you add seasonings or glazes, it adds another layer of complexity, making pairing challenging. Lamb is deep, earthy, and strongly flavored. You might find lamb seasoned simply with salt and pepper or prepared with a mint jelly that is also going to add a wrinkle to pairing wines.

So what to do? Well, I have a group of six recommendations for you below, because we are covering quite the range of styles for both main course dinner and for the accompanying wines. Prices are, as always, an approximation. If none of these play well with that side dish of asparagus on Sunday, fear not...I'll have an explanation for you next time. Until then, what are you having on Sunday: Ham or lamb?

Brooks Amycas White Blend ($18)

I have to say, Brooks Winery, located in Amity, Oregon, is one of my favorite producers as they consistently offer high-quality juice. This interesting blend (vintage 2016) of 44% Riesling, 21% Pinot Blanc, 15% Muscat, 10% Gewurztraminer, and 10% Pinot Gris is a New World take on the classic "Gentil" blend of noble aromatic varieties of Alsace, France. All of the tropical and exotic fruits are strong in this one (pineapple, papaya, lychee) and fruity on the palate. Great with a straightforward unglazed baked ham. If you want to go the Old World route, legendary Alsatian producer Hugel has its Gentil ($14) based on the same varieties as Brooks, but with a grape called "Sylvaner" in place of the Pinot Blanc

La Croix des Loges Anjou Chenin Blanc ($16)

Chenin Blanc is an underappreciated variety. Its high natural acidity screams out for food and this barrel-aged example has flavors and aromas of peaches, nectarines, honeysuckle with a honeyed texture that finishes clean with a touch of sweetness. This is the wine you want for the honey-glazed ham.

Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese ($16)

This is a powerfully fruity pink wine that taste like a glass of herbed strawberries. This is a very good crossover wine if you have both of our featured meats; the peach notes are great with spices on a ham, the minty herbaceousness great with a roast lamb

Undurraga Terroir Hunter Pinot Noir ($24)

Pinot Noir has become a popular choice for hams, New World styles in particular thanks to its fruity/jammy red berry flavors and softness on the palate. The example from Undurraga has lush fruit and body; it's slight smokiness is a fine partner if you have a smoked ham.

Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero ($25)

Made of 100% Tempranillo from the outstanding producer Alejandro Fernandez, this wine is packed with dark berry fruit, tobacco and leather. If you are going with the roasted leg of lamb, this is what I'm going with.

Thorn Clarke "Shotfire" Shiraz ($23)

If you are taking the lamb to the grill, this Aussie Shiraz has plenty of bold jammy berry fruit, and peppery character to stand up to the char and the lamb's distinct flavor profile. If you are adding mint to the equation, detour from Shiraz to Wynn's Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($20-ish). It has the same dark fruit and boldness, but eucalyptus, basil and fresh mint enter the picture and that will complement the mint sauce on your lamb.

Don't Pass Over the Kosher Wine

Yeah, I went for the obvious pun in the title of this post. I couldn't resist being that guy for a moment...

Now, let's get serious. Passover is coming next week and for my Jewish friends, this is a significant springtime feast holiday. If you didn't know, Passover celebrates the emancipation of the Israelites from decades of Egyptian slavery. The main traditional meal, the Seder, features, lamb or brisket, bitter herbs, and matzah (the flat unleavened bread, which according to this web site's explanation, never had time to rise before the Israelites fled Egypt). Growing up in New Jersey, I had more than a handful of Jewish friends and recognized what a big holiday this was for them.

Additionally at the Seder, there are four cups of wine served. Wine was considered the drink of royalty in ancient times, and with newly found freedom the Israelites were able to partake in wine consumption. There are many reasons given as to why four cups are used, and you can read about them here. 

Chances are you will see one of these symbols on a Kosher bottle of wine. If you see one of these symbols with a "P" next to it, the wine is Kosher for Passover. Image credit: Lindsay du Vin

If you are participating in a Seder and you are bringing wine, it needs to be labeled "Kosher for Passover," meaning the wine must be produced with a rabbi's observance with no juice or equipment having touched yeast that made contact with grain, bread, or dough. Please note that it does not need to be Manischewitz, the wine made from concord grapes that is so acidic it is significantly sweetened to balance the harsh tartness. Chances are, this wine will be used in one of the four cups and will likely already be at the Seder host's home. The unique taste of Manischewitz leads some to think all kosher wines taste sticky sweet, but this couldn't be farther from the truth.

Back in February, I was asked by a friend to do a Kosher wine presentation and tasting for a group at a synagogue. I am not Jewish. I am not a theology expert by any stretch (by the way, feel free to correct any factual errors in this post and let me have it). However, I am a wine nerd and what better way to expand on my wine nerdery by helping people make good choices for the holiday table? I had never done one of these types of tastings before, but it was a great opportunity to learn more. Without hesitation, I was in.

We had a lineup of wines originating from all over the world. That's right...Kosher wines can be made anywhere. While there is a religious connection to Kosher production, honestly you can just think of Kosher production as an adherence to a standard, no different than following rules to make a wine that is labeled "Sustainable," or "Organic," or "Biodynamic." The biggest discovery made that night was this: Kosher wines taste better than they ever have. Back in the day, Kosher wines were literally boiled to pasteurize the wine, leading to flat, tired-tasting wines with little fruit on the palate. Today, flash pasteurization techniques are used to adhere to Kosher standards; some inexpensive Ruby Ports are made this way and those taste fine. 

So there wasn't a bad wine in the bunch. Some folks may have preferred one style over another, but we could all agree that the quality of the wines were very good. Below are some of the favorites of that night that you can proudly bring to a Passover Seder, all of which will cost you somewhere in the $18-$25 range. If you are not celebrating Passover and you encounter one of these wines on your local wine shop's shelf, I encourage you to experience them for yourself.

Baron Herzog Selection Vouvray: This is 100% Chenin Blanc, featuring peachy fruit flavors. Chenin is a grape with a high level of natural acidity and is balanced by just a touch of sweetness. This wine can be tremendous with matzoh ball soup, or simply as an aperitif to welcome your guests. If you are looking for a Manischewitz alternative, consider this Vouvray.

Recanati Chardonnay: This Israeli winery was founded by Lenny Recanati, who traces his family's roots to Italy. His Chardonnay from Upper Galilee has defined pineapple and passion fruit flavors, clean and unoaked. Not only a great choice for the Seder, this is going to be a fine spring/summertime Chardonnay to enjoy as well.

Ramon Cardova Rioja: 100% Tempranillo, this is a lighter Rioja with bright, fresh red berry flavors and a touch of oak and spice. A straightforward and versatile wine, this is a natural partner with lamb.

Psagot Sinai Red Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Shiraz. This bold and spicy red blend from the Judean Hills region of Israel shows a great combination of New World fruit-forwardness with Old World earthy tones. The richness and peppery kick on the finish will be outstanding with a brisket.

Drinking Among the Chaos

You haven't heard from me in over a week. Life has dealt me plenty of projects, runny noses, and baby sleep transitions so I have just been trying to sort through all of the chaos. This also means there hasn't been much time for drinking. While that's great for my liver, it's not so great for my ability to share new beverages, but such is life.

Notice how I said "much" time. After all, I'm still a professional with a job to do. You need to know what to enjoy when you are going through the same thing. You work your tails off all week long, and sometimes at the end of the night you just want to grab a glass of wine to enjoy without really thinking much about it. I know when I get into this kind of a mood, my only requirement is that it simply tastes good. I don't need some long, complex finish that I need to analyze to death. I'm not looking for subtlety and nuance. Just give me a good, straightforward wine.

So for these moments when we haven't had time to connect due to all of our commitments (and my brain has temporarily turned to mush), let's do a flight of three wines that are satisfying at any time...and they won't cost you an arm and a leg.

I'll be back soon, ready to chat like a grown-up again soon enough after my upcoming trip to the Michael Skurnik Wines Grand Portfolio Tasting in NYC. Enjoy!

Parolvini Barone Nero Veneto Red Blend ($11): The Barone Nero is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec (rare to find in Italy), and Refosco (a popular violet-scented northern Italian grape). This unusual combo yields a wine with lots of dark fruit and gentle tannins. Great with a sausage and pepper sandwich.

Claar Cellars Cabernet-Merlot White Bluff ($16): 60% Cabernet, 40% Merlot, 100% from Columbia Valley, Washington. Bright and ripe cherry, berry, and black plum fruit with a touch of cocoa. Full body, soft tannins, and the right amount of acidity to balance the wine. Delicious and easy-drinking.

St. Hallett "Faith" Barossa Shiraz ($15): Australia deserves a little love. After the "critter" wines infiltrated the U.S. market, we wrongfully stopped taking the wines seriously. What better way to get reacquainted with Aussie Shiraz with the St. Hallett...it has the blackberry jam, prune, and peppery spice that is widely associated with the Shiraz grape. Grab a bacon cheeseburger and get drinking! 

This Week in Tony's Cellar...

Last week was loaded with afterschool activities, rehearsals, concerts, and caring for ill children. It's not easy to find time to get some adult beveraging in with all of that going on, but by golly I found a way to make it happen! After all, part of my service to you is to share what I am drinking, which I realize I have not done nearly enough since starting this blog. You need to know what tastes good, brings you value, what might make a nice gift, and so on.

Fortunately, among the chaos of the week I tasted some terrific wines (sorry...no time for spirits or beer). The Old World triumvirate of France, Italy, and Spain dominated my liver and brought moments of happiness. I have some good things to share with you as all of these are worth seeking out and trying for yourself.

Mionetto Prosecco Brut ($16): Mionetto has been making Prosecco for 130 years, with styles ranging from casual to prestige-level. This flagship product is fresh and lightly fruity; we added some peach nectar for a simple Valentine's Day cocktail.

Bodega Otazu Navarra Premium Cuvée Red Blend ($13): Rioja's neighbor Navarra is red and rosé-dominant. Aside from traditional varieties like Tempranillo and Garnacha, Navarra also plays with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This particular blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Tempranillo, and 20% Merlot is loaded with dark cherry, blackberry and tobacco flavors. An easy weeknight red to enjoy with a juicy burger.

Château Saint-Cosme Little James' Basket Press Red ($14): Saint-Cosme is best known for its wines produced in the Gigondas region of the Rhône Valley (a neighbor of the higher-profile Châteauneuf-du-Pape region). This multi-vintage 100% Grenache is aged in concrete tanks, leading to a very fresh, yet dark and deep wine. Awesome with a medium-rare roast beef.

Maison Louis Latour Marsannay ($23): Louis Latour's wines are a consistently great way to get introduced to the individual villages of Burgundy. Red wines from Marsannay are 100% Pinot Noir, and this expression shows a mix of red and black fruit. Fragrant yet powerful on the palate, its savory finish begs for some roast duck, but a charcuterie platter or flavorful cheese (like Munster) would do just fine here, too. We had this as a reward for surviving the busy week!

As for the week coming up...

February 21st: We are tasting a range of wines from Steele of Lake County, California at the Divine Wine Emporium. Bill Bishop, National Sales Manager at Steele, joins us in the classroom. He is a fantastic storyteller and with vineyard holdings throughout California, you can get a very good feel for which styles you prefer over others. Steele's wines are a longtime favorite of the store as they consistently deliver for the price.

February 25th: I am delivering a tasting of kosher wines for a group that is preparing for Passover. The time to taste wines for the holiday table is now, and I will be showcasing an array of wines from Bordeaux, Spain, and Israel, all produced in accordance with kosher guidelines. It's a fun topic to revisit for myself, but it is also great to promote the fact that kosher wines are quite tasty!

Hope your week is off to a great start!