Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Torrontés
As I continue to piggyback off of this past Saturday's tasting, one of the things we always enjoy doing is introducing grape varieties that might be new to you. There are thousands of them in circulation, and any time we can get you exposed to a new grape we are going to do it. On Saturday, a lot of discussion revolved around an indigenous Argentine white variety known as Torrontés [tohr-rohn-TESS].
Torrontés grapes ready to become a tasty wine. Image credit: Wines of Argentina
Torrontés has some murky origins as an exact date has not been nailed down as to when it was discovered and how long it has been around for. Damián Hudson is given the credit not only for the first record of Torrontés, but for many grape cultivation and wine production methods in the Mendoza and San Juan provinces of Argentina in 1867. It was learned that Torrontés is actually a crossing of two grape varieties. Mission grapes, brought to California and other western parts of the Americas by Spanish missionaries centuries ago for sacramental and table wines, were crossed with the aromatic Muscat of Alexandria to create Torrontés. I am assuming the thought was to take Mission's workhorse nature and resistance to environmental stress (heat, strong winds, etc.) and combine it with the proven track record of Muscat (an ancient variety with a laundry list of synonyms that thrives in the heat).
Additionally, Argentine producers have learned to use altitude to their advantage when planting Torrontés. The main production zone of Salta in the north of the country is very hot, particularly on the valley floors. Every 100 meters (328 feet) above sea level reduces temperature by one degree Celsius. It turns out that Torrontés' tendency to turn alcoholic and bitter on the valley floor disappears when planted at higher altitudes. Producers are now pushing the limits of high-altitude vineyard farming, almost trying to "one-up" each other with how high they can go to produce quality Torrontés with vines being planted as high as 10,000 feet!
Side note...this desire to try and top one another in the vineyards reminds of one of my favorite stand-up comic's bits. Go ahead and enjoy it for four minutes and come back here when you are ready.
The result is a grape that give wines of distinct aromatic intensity, with perfume and flowers being the dominant characteristics. These aromas are preserved thanks to the large temperature swings that take place at vines planted so high above sea level. A range of tropical and stone fruits are on the palate. With Muscat being one of the parents of Torrontés, I understand why many consider the aromas to smell like a Muscat wine, but I'll go with something that might be more familiar to you: Asti.
Yes, the nose reminds me a lot of the best-selling Martini & Rossi Asti Spumante, but the wine is bubbly and sweet. Torrontés has these same floral/perfumed aromas, but has body and finishes dry. Torrontés almost messes with your senses since you expect one sensation based on the nose and when you taste it you get another. It pays to let this wine grow on you by re-tasting to calibrate your senses. It's the best way to tell whether you like it or not.
So while Malbec has become iconic of Argentine wine, Torrontés should be considered the country's signature grape. Its distinct flavor profile and method of farming are like no other in the world. Here are three for you to try on your own; the good thing about Torrontés is that pricing is fairly consistent (all three of these are right around $13.99) and they are all made for shellfish, white fish with a tropical fruit salsa (think mango and pineapple), or as an aperitif.
Bodega Nieto Senetiner Torrontés ($14)
Packed with white flowers, orange zest, and peaches, I would venture into sushi territory with this one. Very fresh and vibrant.
Susana Balbo "Crios" Torrontés ($14)
Nectarines and peaches abound in this one with white flowers on the nose. The Crios series is a range of young wines meant to be consumed right away (the logo are Susana's and her children's handprints). The ripe fruit flavors and aromatics make a nice counter to spicy Thai dishes.
Finca el Origen Torrontés ($14)
Mangoes and pineapples on the palate, rose petals on the nose. This is the wine to go with the tropical fruit salsas I mentioned above