Ask Tony: To Chill Or Not To Chill?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

We are finally about to hit some real summer weather again. I find that when temperatures go up, the preferences for an alcoholic beverage are all over the map. Some just want an ice cold beer. Others like a cocktail (Gin and Tonic or a Margarita, anyone?). Perhaps a little vodka or Bourbon on the rocks on a muggy summer evening. There is really no argument here with any of those choices.

Then there is wine. White wine can provide a foil for the heat with a vibrant, refreshing quality. However, if you are outside grilling, higher alcohol, bolder red wines will make better partners with your food, even if it is not ideal for some in the warm weather. When I talk to fellow wine lovers, I am frequently asked how to treat them as far as temperature goes:

Should I chill this?

How long should I put this in the fridge?

Is it wrong to put an ice cube in this?

We don't ever chill red wine, do we?

Allow me to share a relevant story with you. Years ago, I went to one of my first WSET wine classes to be introduced to all of the basics of wine, including storage and service. I received two white wines and was instructed to smell, taste, and write down notes about flavors and aromas. One tasted of pears and apples and felt more acidic. The other sort of peachy and softer. When it was all said and done, it turns out both wines were the same exact wine (an Italian Pinot Grigio)...one served three degrees cooler than the other.

That was my first introduction to the importance of serving temperature; this is an aspect of wine drinking that should not be overlooked. Because of that experience, I completely understood why I was asked so many questions later on in my wine and spirits career.

There is such an enormous range of styles out there. Wines can be light or full-bodied. There are reds, whites, and rosés. Some are sparkling, others are fortified. Wines might be very high in acid, fruit, or tannin, and what about sweet wines? With seemingly infinite types of wine to choose from, you will discover that serving certain wines in a temperature range will maximize your sensory experience. Let's lay out some simple guidelines (with some of my favorite wines' labels sprinkled throughout:

White is cooler than red

Not more fashionable. Cooler in temperature. White wines in general are lighter in body than reds. There are also more high-acid white wines than reds. Reds have tannins that are not in white wines. If an acidic white wine is served too warm, it tastes flabby and boring. If a high-tannin red wine is served too cold, the mouth-puckering tannins are amplified, making the wine too astringent and tough. Generally speaking when in doubt, chill the white, keep the red out on the counter.

Aromatic wines of any color like the cold

Now, this is something that requires some exploration and familiarity (which I can help you with). Some grape varieties jump out of the glass at your nose, others are more restrained. For white wines, the Alsatian white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer all benefit from temperatures (43-46F). Sauvignon Blanc, white Burgundy/Old World Chardonnays, and Viognier also benefit in this temperature range, too.

Red wines like Gamay (Beaujolais) and Cabernet Franc (from New York or Loire Valley of France) are very fragrant and fruity and pay you back when served around 50-54F. These are also light in tannin, so no worries about astringency wrecking your palate. This temperature range also works well for many New World Chardonnays. Just stick a room temperature wine of these varieties in the fridge for 20-30 minutes and you will get close. 

Treat rosés like white wines

If you are serving rosés, treat them as a white wine. Rosés are just red grapes that were treated in the way white wines are produced. Cold temperatures bring out the strawberry/watermelon aromas commonly found in these wines.

Low-to-medium tannin wines should feel cool to the touch

Pinot Noir can show itself light and juicy (in the vain of Gamay above), or full-bodied and chewy. Get to know what type of Pinot Noir you are working with. Fancy Premier or Grand Cru Burgundy shouldn't be served too cool, but casual California, Oregon, New Zealand or Chilean Pinot Noir should get 15-20 minutes in the fridge. Basic Chianti, inexpensive Bordeaux, and Côtes du Rhône wines are other examples of wines that should feel cool to the touch when you grab the bottle.

"Room temperature" for high-tannin reds

By room temperature, we are talking 64F-68F and that's on the very cool side of what most people find bearable in their homes. However, this is the temperature that wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo-based wines show their best. The tannins feel soft and mature at this temperature and makes for a better tasting experience than throwing these in the cooler. If you have a wine fridge or cellar that you keep around 58F, just take out the wine and set it on the counter for 30 minutes and you should be good to go. If it is a particularly hot day and you are drinking outside, there is nothing wrong with throwing one of these wines into an ice bucket.

Chill sweet white wines

Sweet white wines suffer from the same issue as the high acid white wines when served too warm, but throw in the residual sugar that gives the impression of a sticky, cloying sensation that makes these wines not as enjoyable as they should be. Sweet Rieslings (Finger Lakes, Germany, Austria, etc), and Chenin Blanc (Loire) will taste so much better when served cold. The acids come to life and balance the fruitiness and sweetness.

Others

Champagne and other sparkling wines should be well-chilled. Fruity sparklers like Prosecco and Cava in particular benefit the most from being in 40F temperature, while most non-vintage Champagne should be a few degrees warmer.

Fino and Manzanilla Sherry, Tawny Ports all should be chilled as well.

Sweet red wines like Ruby and Vintage Ports will have some tannins, so keep these at room temperature.

One other tip: to quickly chill wine, make sure your bucket has both water and ice in it. The laws of heat transfer will get your wine chilled in about 15 minutes. It will take two or three times longer in just a bucket of ice.

Here's what you can do for your flight. Pick up a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc and a Tuscan or California red blend. Taste each one at room temperature. Then stick the bottles in your fridge for 30-60 minutes and see how the wines change if you think temperature doesn't matter.

Just do me one favor: if you are going to drop an ice cube into your wine, give me a heads-up so I can look the other way. I won't tell anyone if you do.