Ask Tony: How Do I Get Someone To Like Wine?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers!

Today's question is quite the interesting one as it deals with a matter of taste and preference. Perhaps you are at a party or gathering with someone and wished this person loved wine as much as you do...or perhaps you wished you loved wine as much as your friend. Instead, beers, cocktails, or a dram of a favorite spirit take the lead and that is OK. I love all of those things, too. However, there is something magically relaxing about wine. I will tell you this...I have never seen an unhappy person sipping on a glass of wine. I know some find wine to be snobbish and exclusive, but I say it is just the opposite: it is as welcoming and inclusive as clinking beer bottles and whiskey glasses.

When it comes to drinking alcohol in America, there is an overwhelming number of products to choose from in an over 200 billion-dollar market. Even with beer still making up the majority (47%), spirits (about 36%) and wine (just over 17%) are growing and becoming more important. So with the question of "How do I get someone to like wine," comes choices from among what amounts to a $35 billion pool of adult grape juice. My goodness...

It's a question with many layers; there is not one defined way to attack this idea, but I do have a way to provide some guidance. These points are not to be taken in as a top-to-bottom order in which you do these things; you have lateral movement based on how you wish to go about enjoying and becoming increasingly comfortable with the nectar of the gods. However, item number one is the most crucial step and needs to be followed at all times:

Have an open mind

You or your friend are getting into wine, because you want to know more about it. It takes a small level of commitment to allow yourself to explore what is out there. If you taste one wine to start and you can't stand it, it doesn't mean you don't like wine...you don't like THAT wine. As an old colleague in New Jersey used to tell customers with whiskey, "Of course you like whiskey...you just haven't met the right one yet."

Start with the international grapes

When I use the term "international," I am referring to wine grape varieties that have proven to make quality wines in multiple countries of the world. You will oftentimes see these grape names prominently displayed on a label so there is no mistaking what you are drinking. The major players include the following: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. The wine geeks out there could argue some others, but lets stick with these. Four whites and four reds with easy access.

Think about the beers you like

Rich and creamy with sweet tropical fruit, this Chardonnay from Washington State might be just for you if you are a fan of malty beers. Typically found for about $13.

I immediately point the IPA drinker to Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. The bitter finish of the IPA resembles the bold flavors, as well as aggressiveness of the acid and tannins in the two grapes above. A saison can have some fresh, but funky earthy components that a Pinot Noir can display. Like a malty ale? Chardonnay can show the same richness in texture, especially when oaked. Merlot's plush texture and plummy/chocolatey flavors can mirror malty sweetness, too. If you like something lighter like a pilsner, the delicate nature of Riesling or refreshing qualities of Sauvignon Blanc may be of interest to you. It is not always a direct match, but these qualities are something to think about if you are trying to find a wine based on the beers you like.

Think about the spirits you like

A great way to get into Pinot Noir, without paying over $20 for it. A to Z can be found for as little as $14 in some markets.

Using the same principles as above with beer, consider the following for spirits. Peated whisky matches up well with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sauvignon Blanc has intense, pungent aromatics that follow Tequila. Vodka's delicate flavors mirror Pinot Grigio and its body matches up with Riesling. Oaked Chardonnay can have a similar richness and sweet, ripe fruitiness to Bourbon or even rum's tropical fruit notes. Sauvignon Blanc's acid and spice in cool climates can show similar character to the forwardness of rye whiskey. Cognac's fresh, lively nature can mirror either Riesling or Pinot Noir, particularly from Oregon or Chile.

Think about the non-alcoholic flavors you like

This can be especially useful to a newbie alcohol drinker as this can be useful across all categories. As it applies to wine, think about fruits you like; the amazing thing about wine grapes is that each variety has phenolic compounds in the skins and juice that lead to a variety of "non-grape" flavors and aromas. Some of these compounds can be amplified or muted during alcoholic fermentation, or even the region of the world where the grapes are grown. This is why you hear or read people describing wines smelling like peaches, berries, or cherries in a description on a label or magazine article. 

A branded "welcome" wine from the prestigious Schloss Johannisberg property in Germany, 50 Degree Riesling is a great introduction to the grape at just $15.

If you like citrus and "green" flavors (lemon, lime, fresh herbs), then Sauvignon Blanc might be right for you. Do you enjoy white stone fruits (apricots, nectarines, peaches)? Riesling or Pinot Gris may be your preference. How about plums? California Merlot has that type of flavor. Fresh raspberries and red cherries? Pinot Noir can show that in the Old World, but if you like raspberry jam then you may prefer California Pinot Noir. Blackberries and black cherries? Cabernet Sauvignon's got them. These are all broad generalizations, but some quick research and reading can give you an idea of what to expect in a bottle of wine.

Also note that many European wines can have earthy and herbaceous notes, more noticeable acids and tannins complementing the fruit flavors. New World wines tend to be fuller-bodied and riper/bolder in fruit flavor with softer tannins and acidity. Again, this is a broad generalization, but the concept should help you establish a starting point.

An easy way to jump into a deeper part of the pool, the Centine incorporates 60% Sangiovese with 20% each Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon...all for $10-$12! 

Be sure to (eventually) branch out!

I don't spend all this time writing about the different wine regions of the world, nor do you read this blog to have you stick with the same wine over and over again. Is it good to have some reliable wines you can go to anytime because you like them? Yes! But don't forget about the other grapes in the 35 billion-dollar wine market! Explore regional varieties like Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Gewurztraminer, and the like. There is plenty of good wine that needs a home...and we will spend time discussing these in the future. Keep these on the back burner.

Record what you like

Not everyone wants to bust out a journal and a pen to write down what you liked about your wine, but trust me...it can be very handy to refer back to when you need to remember what you sampled. At the very least, it is easy enough to snap a photo with your smart phone on the fly and research more afterwards. Then...

Share with friends

Wine makes things very easy when it comes to social sharing. Join Facebook groups, get on Twitter, take Instagram photos...get involved in the online community. Search hashtags on grape varieties and see what people are talking about. For example, #CabernetDay is taking place on August 31st. Share your favorite Cabernet and see what others are drinking and discussing on your favorite social media channels.

Have fun with it

I just outlined many ways you and/or friends can get introduced to wine and STAY with it. If that first wine you sample ends up turning you off, push the reset button and try again. One of the things you can always do to help yourself is get friendly with your local wine merchants. Talk to them about your experiences, and a reputable shop will be able to guide you to a style you have a good chance of enjoying. Getting into wine may not happen overnight, but if you have the interest and commitment to tasting and exploring, you will do just fine.

Happy exploring!

Ask Tony: To Chill Or Not To Chill?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

We are finally about to hit some real summer weather again. I find that when temperatures go up, the preferences for an alcoholic beverage are all over the map. Some just want an ice cold beer. Others like a cocktail (Gin and Tonic or a Margarita, anyone?). Perhaps a little vodka or Bourbon on the rocks on a muggy summer evening. There is really no argument here with any of those choices.

Then there is wine. White wine can provide a foil for the heat with a vibrant, refreshing quality. However, if you are outside grilling, higher alcohol, bolder red wines will make better partners with your food, even if it is not ideal for some in the warm weather. When I talk to fellow wine lovers, I am frequently asked how to treat them as far as temperature goes:

Should I chill this?

How long should I put this in the fridge?

Is it wrong to put an ice cube in this?

We don't ever chill red wine, do we?

Allow me to share a relevant story with you. Years ago, I went to one of my first WSET wine classes to be introduced to all of the basics of wine, including storage and service. I received two white wines and was instructed to smell, taste, and write down notes about flavors and aromas. One tasted of pears and apples and felt more acidic. The other sort of peachy and softer. When it was all said and done, it turns out both wines were the same exact wine (an Italian Pinot Grigio)...one served three degrees cooler than the other.

That was my first introduction to the importance of serving temperature; this is an aspect of wine drinking that should not be overlooked. Because of that experience, I completely understood why I was asked so many questions later on in my wine and spirits career.

There is such an enormous range of styles out there. Wines can be light or full-bodied. There are reds, whites, and rosés. Some are sparkling, others are fortified. Wines might be very high in acid, fruit, or tannin, and what about sweet wines? With seemingly infinite types of wine to choose from, you will discover that serving certain wines in a temperature range will maximize your sensory experience. Let's lay out some simple guidelines (with some of my favorite wines' labels sprinkled throughout:

White is cooler than red

Not more fashionable. Cooler in temperature. White wines in general are lighter in body than reds. There are also more high-acid white wines than reds. Reds have tannins that are not in white wines. If an acidic white wine is served too warm, it tastes flabby and boring. If a high-tannin red wine is served too cold, the mouth-puckering tannins are amplified, making the wine too astringent and tough. Generally speaking when in doubt, chill the white, keep the red out on the counter.

Aromatic wines of any color like the cold

Now, this is something that requires some exploration and familiarity (which I can help you with). Some grape varieties jump out of the glass at your nose, others are more restrained. For white wines, the Alsatian white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer all benefit from temperatures (43-46F). Sauvignon Blanc, white Burgundy/Old World Chardonnays, and Viognier also benefit in this temperature range, too.

Red wines like Gamay (Beaujolais) and Cabernet Franc (from New York or Loire Valley of France) are very fragrant and fruity and pay you back when served around 50-54F. These are also light in tannin, so no worries about astringency wrecking your palate. This temperature range also works well for many New World Chardonnays. Just stick a room temperature wine of these varieties in the fridge for 20-30 minutes and you will get close. 

Treat rosés like white wines

If you are serving rosés, treat them as a white wine. Rosés are just red grapes that were treated in the way white wines are produced. Cold temperatures bring out the strawberry/watermelon aromas commonly found in these wines.

Low-to-medium tannin wines should feel cool to the touch

Pinot Noir can show itself light and juicy (in the vain of Gamay above), or full-bodied and chewy. Get to know what type of Pinot Noir you are working with. Fancy Premier or Grand Cru Burgundy shouldn't be served too cool, but casual California, Oregon, New Zealand or Chilean Pinot Noir should get 15-20 minutes in the fridge. Basic Chianti, inexpensive Bordeaux, and Côtes du Rhône wines are other examples of wines that should feel cool to the touch when you grab the bottle.

"Room temperature" for high-tannin reds

By room temperature, we are talking 64F-68F and that's on the very cool side of what most people find bearable in their homes. However, this is the temperature that wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo-based wines show their best. The tannins feel soft and mature at this temperature and makes for a better tasting experience than throwing these in the cooler. If you have a wine fridge or cellar that you keep around 58F, just take out the wine and set it on the counter for 30 minutes and you should be good to go. If it is a particularly hot day and you are drinking outside, there is nothing wrong with throwing one of these wines into an ice bucket.

Chill sweet white wines

Sweet white wines suffer from the same issue as the high acid white wines when served too warm, but throw in the residual sugar that gives the impression of a sticky, cloying sensation that makes these wines not as enjoyable as they should be. Sweet Rieslings (Finger Lakes, Germany, Austria, etc), and Chenin Blanc (Loire) will taste so much better when served cold. The acids come to life and balance the fruitiness and sweetness.

Others

Champagne and other sparkling wines should be well-chilled. Fruity sparklers like Prosecco and Cava in particular benefit the most from being in 40F temperature, while most non-vintage Champagne should be a few degrees warmer.

Fino and Manzanilla Sherry, Tawny Ports all should be chilled as well.

Sweet red wines like Ruby and Vintage Ports will have some tannins, so keep these at room temperature.

One other tip: to quickly chill wine, make sure your bucket has both water and ice in it. The laws of heat transfer will get your wine chilled in about 15 minutes. It will take two or three times longer in just a bucket of ice.

Here's what you can do for your flight. Pick up a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc and a Tuscan or California red blend. Taste each one at room temperature. Then stick the bottles in your fridge for 30-60 minutes and see how the wines change if you think temperature doesn't matter.

Just do me one favor: if you are going to drop an ice cube into your wine, give me a heads-up so I can look the other way. I won't tell anyone if you do.

Ask Tony: Why Is Champagne So Expensive?

Looks like Daffy hit the jackpot. Time to go buy some Champagne!

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Today's question is one that has popped up somewhat regularly dating back to my days working the sales floor in New Jersey: Why does Champagne cost so much money to buy? It's a discussion that has several layers and doesn't contain a one-word answer, but it is a fair one and deserves my time and yours.

Let's start with what Champagne is. It is a sparkling wine made according to a set of rules and standards from the Champagne region of France. Chardonnay (valued for acidity and creaminess), Pinot Noir (valued for its structure and aromatics), and Pinot Meunier (a fruity, early-ripening red wine grape suitable for the cool climate of Champagne) are the most popular choices to make Champagne, though other grape varieties are permitted. Champagne invokes an image of luxury and elegance. It is the go-to for celebrations, gifts, holidays, and more. These reasons among many others is why the folks at the Champagne Bureau are fiercely protective of the name "Champagne" and have been doing so since the onset of World War II. There is nothing like it produced anywhere in the world.

Short rant: This includes products that are labeled "California Champagne," which are not anything close to the real thing, but the name has been grandfathered by a loophole that permits the United States to use this misleading label terminology. I would like to see what would happen if a "French Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon" made it onto our shelves and see how well that goes over around here.

So why is it that when we go searching for authentic Champagne, we see price tags that start in the $30-$40 range and climb seemingly exponentially from there?

It is highly stressful being a grapegrower in Champagne.

Late spring frosts can kill buds on the vines, delaying or eliminating the ability for grapes to grow. Early fall frosts can freeze grapes on the vines, changing the composition of the grapes before they are harvested. These vineyard threats, along with a generally short growing season, makes it challenging to have optimal grapes for winemaking. A lot of hands-on care and monitoring of the vineyards is important. Additionally, if a grapegrower is selling grapes or wine to a larger Champagne brand, the pressure is on to perform, even though you can't control nature. It all costs money.

The method of making Champagne is labor intensive.

After base wine is fermented, a second fermentation takes place inside individual bottles with yeast and sugar added prior to being capped; this is what gets the bubbles inside Champagne. After this second fermentation takes place, the wine ages on the spent yeast cells (the lees) for a minimum of 18 months (many producers will go well above the minimum requirements). After that there is riddling, a technique involving a slow maneuvering of individual bottles to get the spent yeasts cells into each bottle's neck before being ejected from the bottles (called disgorgement). Most Champagne houses still employ manual labor to handle these tasks, though there are mechanized options such as a gyropalette that can handle the riddling. After disgorgement, the dosage (the sugar/wine combo that determines a Champagne's sweetness/dryness) is added before being bottled under pressure, ready to be labeled. This multistep process adds cost to the wine.

Blending is both science and art. Image credit: Marc Chauvet

Larger Champagne producers often have stocks of reserve wine on hand that are blended with the most recent harvest to create a "house style" for a non-vintage Champagne. The effort of establishing how the wine of an individual vintage tastes, then seeking out the proper proportions of reserve wine to blend in is what allows your Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label or Moët & Chandon Imperial to taste the same year after year. In a way, this is how blended Scotch whisky is made; no age statement in many cases means stocks of reserve whisky of varying ages need to be on hand with newer whisky to create what Johnnie Walker Black Label tastes like you after year. If the non-vintage Champagne or the blended Scotch does not taste typical of the house style, it damages the credibility of the brand. Champagne houses will pay for the ability to keep the flagship product consistent to help develop brand loyalty.

Want a Champagne from a specific vintage? Be prepared to pay even more money. A vintage Champagne will showcase the character of an individual harvest, but that also takes away juice that could be used for the higher-volume (and more revenue-generating) non-vintage flagship product, leading the Champagne blender to have to find another source for the non-vintage expression. Additionally, vintage Champagnes are required to age on the spent yeast cells for three years, so there is greater inventory management and monitoring that takes place.

Let's also address marketing, advertising and cultural impact.

You will see pages of luxury magazines (real estate, cigars, wine and spirits, cars, etc.) devoted to landing clientele with plenty of disposable income. Cristal, Moët, Dom Perignon, and Ace of Spades have all made their way into hip-hop lyrics (go do a Google search on that for complete NSFW results). This only drives demand further and prices go up.

So what if you want to enjoy Champagne on occasion, but you don't make money hand-over-fist? Seek out some Grower Champagnes. These are individual farmers that don't sell their grapes or wine to the larger brands and produce their own Champagne from start to finish. There are limited funds for farmers to run advertising, so they rely heavily on importers and distributors to promote their products to retailers so you can have access to their Champagnes. The entry-level wines may not be markedly cheaper, but the highest-end products never get out of control (and by that, I mean you shouldn't have to reach triple digits to buy a bottle of killer bubbly).

I'll be honest...I have never been a huge Champagne consumer in my wine-drinking lifetime. All of the steps to producing Champagne made me think it was for high-maintenance, needy types with too much money and a quest to achieve status. But you know what? I eventually discovered there are just as many painstaking steps to create Scotch whisky. And Port. And Sherry. And Madeira. These are all things I enjoy. It would be hypocritical of me to bang on Champagne's meticulous nature.

When you really see what it takes to produce a bottle of Champagne, you gain perspective and appreciation for it. That's the sole purpose of this blog...to get you to open your eyes and your mind to all adult beverages. With that, raise a glass of this distinct, authentic sparkling wine sometime "just because" instead of waiting for a special occasion. The Grower Champagne link above takes care of the recommendations on what to seek out in that category, but if you want to get started with a few of the well-known brands and understand their styles, here's what to look for.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut ($33)

A cooperative Champagne producer, Feuillatte's entry-level example is floral on the nose with a white peach and apple flavor and fresh baked bread on the finish. This makes an excellent starting point in your Champagne adventures. 

Taittinger Brut La Française ($50)

Creamy and golden with peaches, vanilla, and brioche bread flavors, the texture is enhanced by at least three years of aging on the lees. Very lively and enjoyable.

Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée ($50)

Smoky, rich, and deeply flavored, Bollinger's flagship product has baked pears, apples and roasted walnuts, with a toasty, savory finish. This has plenty of character to stand up to smoked seafood.

Ask Tony: What's The Deal With Asparagus And Wine?

In my best Jerry Seinfeld voice, "What's the deal with asparagus?"

Welcome to my newest segment: Ask Tony! You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Spring's arrival means the first bounty of green vegetables. While these don't make it to the forefront of a meal for some, certainly this is an important time for the vegetarian and vegan diners out there. Still...you should be having greens on the side with your meat dishes! Listen to your parents for once!

Asparagus: rough stuff if it comes in contact with the wrong wine. Proceed with caution!

So among the leafy harvest of kale, Swiss chard, collards, and salad greens also comes the distinct, stalky vegetable called asparagus. It's chemical composition is unique; there are things called "asparagusic acid," "asparagosides," "asparagine," and "asparenyol" involved. These are group of building blocks that make asparagus so asparagus-y. To boot, 60-80% of the asparagus-consuming American population notices quite the "aroma" that emerges when you need to use the potty. All of these asparagus-y chemical components become the bane of many a wine pairing enthusiast. One has to be careful when marrying wines to these spears of green goodness. The wrong choice leads to overly tart, metallic, and astringent flavors on your palate. It's a beyond unpleasant chemical reaction for your senses.

I know...it doesn't sound like there is a lot of upside to getting wine into the equation when asparagus is being served. However, there is always a way. It's not impossible to enjoy both. A really simple guideline is to go for fresh, fruity, unoaked white wines. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Finger Lakes or Alsace Riesling immediately come to mind. You can even go with a Grüner Veltliner, which has always been an equalizer when it comes to greens.

A Grenache-based rosé wine, such as those coming from Navarra (Spain) or from the Côtes du Rhône in France will give you fruitiness if you are not a fan of white wine. If you must have a red, it can be a tougher pairing; any tannins will create chaos. Mild, unoaked, low-tannin reds such as the Gamay-based wines of Beaujolais would be useful in this spot, but go simple. If you spend for the "cru" wines, some (such as those from Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly) have tannin in there; you might want to search for cru regions like Fleurie, which are lighter and gentler.

If all else fails, wrap a piece of prosciutto around a bundle of asparagus or cover asparagus with cheese. That will make life easy and you can just drink whatever you want!

Here are a few specific options for you. Try them for yourself and let me know what you think!

If you have questions you want answered, get in touch with me and maybe I will feature your question in another segment!

Silver Thread Finger Lakes Dry Riesling ($18)

Vibrant and peachy, this dry example from New York finishes clean and should help tame the green monster.

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc ($20)

Bursting with passionfruit, herbs and a hint of stony earthiness, the ripeness will work wonders with asparagus.

Vega Sindoa Navarra Garnacha Rosado ($11)

Not having any part of white wine? This simple pink wine gives you lots of strawberry and spiced flavors at a terrific bargain.

Chateau de Pizay Beaujolais ($15)

A producer who has been a longtime favorite at the store, this is straightforward raspberry and baking spice that will satisfy the red wine fan.