Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Picpoul de Pinet
We are smack-dab in the middle of summer. This time of year is fantastic for experimenting and exploring beverages of all kinds. Cocktails of all flavors, aromas, and colors are probably giving you satisfying refreshment. The beer drinkers are loving the white ales, hefeweizens, and IPAs, all of which give you the exotic tropical fruit and zesty citrus flavors. When it comes to wine, I know that I have been acting as a rosé champion lately, but honestly an unoaked, dry style of any color will have bright, fresh fruit flavors that pair wonderfully with a warm summer evening on the patio. So that brings me to a simple, casual white wine that hails from the gorgeous Mediterranean coastline of France: Picpoul de Pinet [PEEK-pool duh pin-AY].
Picpoul is one of those grapes that you just don't find anywhere except for the Languedoc region in southern France, except for a handful of outliers. It loves the warm, dry climate, as well as the 300+ sunny days per year in the Languedoc. Picpoul grapes are prone to mildew, so cool, humid parts of the world won't allow for fully healthy grapes. Hot areas like southern Spain or countries of the southern hemisphere would essentially "bake" the acid and delicate flavors right out of the grapes. This is why Picpoul is right at home in southern France.
On our honeymoon, The Greatest Wife In The World and I stayed further East of the Picpoul de Pinet wine region in Provence, but I wouldn't be surprised if its wine ended up in our carafe when we ordered the "House Wine." (Image credit: Laithwaite's UK)
Something else to love about Picpoul is that it is very inexpensive. You will find many examples right at the $10 price point. It ripens so easily at its homeland and requires minimal handling or oak barrel treatment, that it simply does not cost much to produce...and your wallet wins because of that. Some producers might use neutral barrels to add some texture and soften the acids of Picpoul, but this is not common. You typically want to find the most recent vintage as Picpoul should be consumed within a year or two of the vintage (there is plenty of 2017 wines that need a home right now).
The traditional bottle for Picpoul de Pinet
Picpoul sounds like a little French sprite has come to offer you a magic elixir to beat the heat or match with raw oysters. It's a fun summertime wine that should not be overlooked when you are looking to restock your wine fridge. Picpoul is also a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio when you are looking for something different. The traditional bottle is in the longer "flute" style bottle, which most customers associating with sweet German Rieslings, but rest assured these wines don't show any perceptible sweetness. I have some examples for you to try. There are many small-production producers that will be worth trying, but these three should be available in most markets due to their solid distribution networks.
La Chapelle du Bastion ($10, Imported by Monsieur Touton): Crisp, clean, and lemony with a touch of minerality. You don't need any more details than that. Simply refreshing.
Moulin de Gassac Picpoul de Pinet ($12, Imported by Winebow): If you are looking for a Picpoul with more flesh and texture to it, look no further than Domaine Gassac, a well-respected wine producer in southern France. Fruit flavors tend more towards peaches and nectarines rather than citrus, but it is still unoaked and made with organic grapes.
Tablas Creek Vineyard Picpoul Blanc, Paso Robles ($27, price direct from winery website): I offer this one up to show you how a winery can stretch the limits with the Picpoul grape, as well as a non-French example. This wine has more of a tropical fruit profile when compared to the previous two, with ginger and herbs accompanying the fruit. Paso Robles in general is doing lots of interesting work with the white Rhône and Languedoc varieties, and Tablas Creek has stepped up when it comes to the Picpoul grape. A fine partner with exotically spiced Thai-style seafoods