Tired Of The Heat? Turn To The Old World For Help

The dog days of summer have officially arrived. Independence Day is long in the rearview mirror, and it has been friggin’ hot outside ever since. Fortunately when we want to avoid crowds at the beach, the kiddie pool and the sprinkler have come in quite handy. The afternoon popsicle or Boston Cream Donut Klondike Bar hasn’t been too shabby of an option either. As for a glass of wine? Put those heavy, high-alcohol reds and rich, oaky whites away and join me on the side of Old World refreshment.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

These sweltering days call out for some good old-fashioned acidity, a critical component of wine but it is also the aspect of lemonade or unsweetened iced tea that livens up your palate and gets your mouth watering (also a good thing in the heat so you get something to eat to keep your energy up).

We also need something unoaked, so all of the fruitiness and acidity stands out. Wines aged in oak are round, textured, and pleasant to enjoy most times, but they will tire out your palate real fast since the acidity tends to be muted or in some cases non-existent.

Low alcohol also helps here, too. We don’t want a high-abv wine (basically, anything 14.0% and up) to dehydrate us. Additionally, higher alcohol wines, in general, tend to be lower in acidity. Old World wines from Europe skew in the direction we are looking for. The growing season is typically shorter than New World regions with many cooling influences to preserve acidity and keep potential alcohol levels lower, but the Old World gives you plenty of vibrant flavors and aromas to keep your senses interested while being boiled in the dead of summer..

The following flight is Tony-tested, Tony-approved. If you don’t see any of the producers, look for wines from these regions or made from these grape varieties as acceptable substitutes. Of course, you can also get in touch with specific questions. My office is always open. So get a good chill on these and go to town!

Les Vignerons de Florensac Picpoul de Pinet ($13): Picpoul is the grape you never knew you needed until you try it. Despite over 300 sunny days per year in Southern France, this white grape not only thrives, but it displays an incredible amount of zest with a full citrus bowl of fruit and hint of fresh herbs on the nose. On the palate, there is a minerally quality to it and a long, lemony finish. It’s a terrific alternative to both Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc that also pairs well with delicate white fish.

Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino Vendemmia 30 ($16): Even on the warm island of Sardinia, the white grape Vermentino has adapted to the harsh climate beautifully. Vermentino has great texture, but it is balanced by a streak of natural acidity that comes from Mediterranean island viticulture. This wine has a great combination of lemon, peach, and tropical fruits with a saline character on the finish. This is the 30th vintage of the Costamolino, and Argiolas keeps knocking it out of the park with this wine. Perfect partner with shellfish and makes for an interesting alternate to unoaked Chardonnay.

90+ Cellars Cotes de Provence Rosé ($12): A classic blend of southern French red grapes Grenache and Cinsault, both of which give fruity wines with plenty of acidity and a delicate color since neither grape has particularly thick skins. When these red grapes are used to make a rosé, there is a fun crossover of white wine flavors (grapefruit, nectarine) and red wine flavors (strawberry, watermelon). Throw in a slightly herbaceous nose and salty palate, and you have a steal on your hands while getting a good foundation of what Provence Rosé is all about..

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Picpoul de Pinet

We are smack-dab in the middle of summer. This time of year is fantastic for experimenting and exploring beverages of all kinds. Cocktails of all flavors, aromas, and colors are probably giving you satisfying refreshment. The beer drinkers are loving the white ales, hefeweizens, and IPAs, all of which give you the exotic tropical fruit and zesty citrus flavors. When it comes to wine, I know that I have been acting as a rosé champion lately, but honestly an unoaked, dry style of any color will have bright, fresh fruit flavors that pair wonderfully with a warm summer evening on the patio. So that brings me to a simple, casual white wine that hails from the gorgeous Mediterranean coastline of France: Picpoul de Pinet [PEEK-pool duh pin-AY].

Picpoul is one of those grapes that you just don't find anywhere except for the Languedoc region in southern France, except for a handful of outliers. It loves the warm, dry climate, as well as the 300+ sunny days per year in the Languedoc. Picpoul grapes are prone to mildew, so cool, humid parts of the world won't allow for fully healthy grapes. Hot areas like southern Spain or countries of the southern hemisphere would essentially "bake" the acid and delicate flavors right out of the grapes. This is why Picpoul is right at home in southern France.

On our honeymoon, The Greatest Wife In The World and I stayed further East of the Picpoul de Pinet wine region in Provence, but I wouldn't be surprised if its wine ended up in our carafe when we ordered the "House Wine." (Image credit: Laithwaite's UK)

Something else to love about Picpoul is that it is very inexpensive. You will find many examples right at the $10 price point. It ripens so easily at its homeland and requires minimal handling or oak barrel treatment, that it simply does not cost much to produce...and your wallet wins because of that. Some producers might use neutral barrels to add some texture and soften the acids of Picpoul, but this is not common. You typically want to find the most recent vintage as Picpoul should be consumed within a year or two of the vintage (there is plenty of 2017 wines that need a home right now).

The traditional bottle for Picpoul de Pinet

Picpoul sounds like a little French sprite has come to offer you a magic elixir to beat the heat or match with raw oysters. It's a fun summertime wine that should not be overlooked when you are looking to restock your wine fridge. Picpoul is also a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio when you are looking for something different. The traditional bottle is in the longer "flute" style bottle, which most customers associating with sweet German Rieslings, but rest assured these wines don't show any perceptible sweetness. I have some examples for you to try. There are many small-production producers that will be worth trying, but these three should be available in most markets due to their solid distribution networks.

La Chapelle du Bastion ($10, Imported by Monsieur Touton): Crisp, clean, and lemony with a touch of minerality. You don't need any more details than that. Simply refreshing.

Moulin de Gassac Picpoul de Pinet ($12, Imported by Winebow): If you are looking for a Picpoul with more flesh and texture to it, look no further than Domaine Gassac, a well-respected wine producer in southern France. Fruit flavors tend more towards peaches and nectarines rather than citrus, but it is still unoaked and made with organic grapes.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Picpoul Blanc, Paso Robles ($27, price direct from winery website): I offer this one up to show you how a winery can stretch the limits with the Picpoul grape, as well as a non-French example. This wine has more of a tropical fruit profile when compared to the previous two, with ginger and herbs accompanying the fruit. Paso Robles in general is doing lots of interesting work with the white Rhône and Languedoc varieties, and Tablas Creek has stepped up when it comes to the Picpoul grape. A fine partner with exotically spiced Thai-style seafoods

Ring Around The Rosé

A couple of weeks ago, the Divine Wine Emporium hosted a huge rosé event outside on the deck. In a little New England shore town, we welcomed quite the crowd as we opened eighteen bottles from wineries located all over the globe. I was lucky enough to have a table of my own, where I poured five rosés and it was a great time. There is nothing better than showing somebody something new.

We had our attendees score the wines they tried on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being outstanding and 1 being, well...pour-down-the-drain-worthy. Recently, we were able to compile all the data and now I have some winners to share with you. The top five rosé wines are listed below (along with an honorable mention). If you have not been jumping into rosé wines, you now have no excuse. Without further ado, here they are, all priced between $13 and $19.

Survey says...Drink Rosé

Honorable mention: Hillersden New Zealand Rosé

This did not get enough votes as not enough people had the chance to try this, but those that did gave it high marks, and deservedly so. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, Hillersden's example shows flavors and aromas that I can only describe as a berry salad with orange zest shaved on top. This may not be available in all markets, but if you can find it, snap it up.

Words to live by from Charles Smith, Winemaker

5) Charles & Charles Washington Rosé

This is a wine stew (a term coined by my father any time more than four grapes are in a blend) of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre (popular for structure in red wines), Cinsault (adds fruitiness and acidity to Rhône blends), and Counoise (a peppery variety that appears in the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The result is a fruity, refreshing, and complex wine with candied citrus and strawberry the primary flavors. 

4) Gérard Bertrand Cote des Roses (Languedoc, France)

A fancy-shaped bottle with a rose etched on the bottom, the wine inside is legit. Bertrand makes a complete range of wines from the everyday to the cellar-worthy, all acting as a great way to introduce yourself to the Old World if you are traditionally a California/New World wine fan. Classic strawberry, watermelon, and a hint of grapefruit gives a mouthwatering sensation on the finish of this Rosé.

3) La Belle en Rosé Sancerre (Loire Valley, France)

This is actually a label from the 90+ Cellars family of wines. In the region of Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc is dominant, but when it comes to reds and rosés, it is Pinot Noir that shines. Coming from a cool climate in the Loire Valley, the flavors become more citrusy (think ruby red grapefruit here) than berrylike, and a minerally, almost smoky character. Finding a Sancerre Rosé for under $20 can be a challenge, so the La Belle is a fantastic way to be introduced to the style.

The reds from Nerello Mascalese can be incredibly powerful, smoky, earthy, and savory. As a Rosé, it's a completely different experience.

2) Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Le Rosé (Sicily, Italy)

This has become a new favorite at Divine Wine; even before the event it sells out regularly. A Sicilian Rosé made from the local Nerello Mascalese grape, this is very full-bodied and fruity with cherry and raspberry dominating the palate, accompanied by some sweet spices like anise. This is an all-seasons rosé.

1) Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence (Provence, France)

This wine has been a classic at Divine Wine; it has been at the store longer than I have been here in Connecticut as it consistently delivers on a great combination of delicacy, fruit, acidity, complexity, and long-lasting finish. Whether it is herbed shellfish, tomato-based salads, or a warm summer day on the deck, it does not matter...Houchart is a crowd-pleaser.

Building A Case For Value

It's not that often these days where I am actively working the sales floor at the store. However in the past and when I help out on the big holidays at Divine Wine, a customer presents me the following:

"Hi! I would like to buy a case of wine, but I am not sure what I want. Can you help me?"

Yes! This is what I do. It's my livelihood. I always get excited at the opportunity to send customers home with 12 bottles of wine that (hopefully) they will enjoy with friends, family, colleagues, or just by themselves on a random Wednesday night.

Now, there is a key component to the statement above: "I am not sure what I want." In general, wine drinkers know what they like, but in this instance I get the impression that my customers are hesitant to step outside of their comfort zone. After all, they are buying a full case of wine so people are investing their hard-earned dollars in me and my recommendations. Of course if you choose to make your own choices, which you are perfectly capable of doing, I won't treat you as if you were having a touch time choosing a dozen donuts:

No matter whether you decide to choose specific wines on your own or ask me for help, I have a way for you to structure how you go about purchasing a case of wine. For today, I am focusing on the everyday/value bottles. Consider this to be the $120-$150 range when all is said and done. Keep in mind that many retailers will take anywhere from 10-20% off of a purchase of a case of wine with the ability to mix and match how you see fit. Let's dive into some things to consider when building your case from a perspective of seeking value.

Find your brands:

As much as I love to show you something from a small artisanal producer from some remote corner of France, the fact is that your larger, well-known brands will be easy to come by. Additionally, depending on the size of the retail store, their purchasing power will dictate how low they can keep prices. So you might encounter that Alamos Malbec, Blackstone Merlot, Concha y Toro Chilean red blend for a very inexpensive price already, all of which make great house wines or something you can offer a guest at a party who is looking to have something familiar. You can score some of your favorite brands for as little as $7 per bottle in some places. However...

Include some lesser-known regions and grape varieties:

Know what Corbieres is? In context of this post, who cares? Just know that some great Cinsault-based pink wine is being made here for $12.

If you are shopping at a good store offering the combination of knowledgeable and friendly customer service, chances are high that the overwhelming majority of wines on the shelves will be at minimum, drinkable and at best, very exciting. So if you see a red wine from Portugal made with Touriga Nacional for $10, grab it. A rosé from Languedoc, France made with Cinsault for $12? Get it. A South African Chenin Blanc for $10? Go for it. There are tons of examples from Italy and Spain, too. Piedmont and Tuscany get tons of love (and accompanying higher prices to match) in Italy, but Puglia, Sicily, and the Veneto regions can frequently offer you significant value. Additionally, Spain still has an incredible quality-to-price ratio, maybe the best of any country right now. There is a ton to choose from.

Find "declassified" wines from a European producer:

Naming conventions and labeling rules for wines in Europe will often refer to a geography, which is most evident in the wines of France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. Lets say you have a producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a specific wine zone in the Rhône Valley of France with a set of rules for making wine. Chances are that the same producer might make a wine from a larger area, different grape varieties than are permitted in the "Grand Vin" of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or less stringent production rules to make a Côtes du Rhône wine, costing you a fraction of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Côtes du Rhône is a broader geographical area with more flexibility in rules for producing wines.

Another example comes from the Loire Valley. Sancerre's white wines are made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc in the Sancerre region. However, if the wine is made from vines outside of Sancerre, or don't adhere to technical aspects like vine age or yield control, then the wine might be labeled "Vin de France Sauvignon Blanc" such as the example below from Domaine de la Perriere.

Both wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the same property owner, but the Sancerre is costing you $25. The one labeled Sauvignon Blanc? $10. This is a great way to go value-hunting. It might take a little digging around and a bit of research, but finding this kind of information will help save you several dollars.

Don't forget sparkling wine!

Look, we can't drink Champagne all the time, nor should Champagne and other sparkling wines only be reserved for special occasions. A bottle of bubbly as part of your case is a must-have. Best of all, you can find a fruity sparkling wine like Prosecco, or you can find Cava (Spain's sparkling wine made using Champagne's process, but with native grape varieties) can often be found at a bargain. For less than $15, you can spot one of each without a problem. Then you can pop the cork anytime you see fit, because you will have a bottle on-hand and ready to go, special occasion to celebrate, or not.

Why don't we do this...let's take some of these wines and stick them in the box. Then we'll add a few more, total it up, and you will see how you can build your mixed case of goodies to take home. Prices are approximate, and I will use 10% as the case discount as a conservative estimate. These are all wines I have tried and would recommend to anyone looking for a solid variety pack case that includes many styles of wines.

Mionetto Il Prosecco Brut, $11, a simple, easy-drink bottle of fruity sparkler, great for casual parties and Mimosas.

Fonseca Twin Vines Vinho Verde, $8, Vinho Verde is a light, low-alcohol, slightly fizzy citrusy wine from the northeastern corner of Portugal.

La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc, $10, this is the declassified Sancerre from above

Cantine Paolini Sicilia Pinot Grigio, $10, this Sicilian Pinot Grigio has some flavor to it, with melon and tropical fruit.

Tormentoso Old Vine Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc, $13, try some Chenin Blanc as a Chardonnay alternative, plus a wine from South Africa. A region and a grape that deserves your love and attention.

Domaine Sainte Eugenie Corbieres Rose, $12, an unbelievably fruit-but-dry rose wine from southern France. Provence, for all of its delicate fruit and herbs that I really enjoy, does not have the fruit-forwardness of this wine.

Parolvini Barone Nero Veneto Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Malbec), $12, an interesting blend that includes the native northeastern Italian variety of Refosco, which has a leathery, violet-scented character. It plays so well with the deep, dark fruit of the other two grapes, and it's not every day you see Malbec being grown in Italy.

Azul Portugal Douro Red Blend, $11, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. All of these grapes go into Port wines, but when vinified as a dry wine, it gives you plenty of structure and fruit with a bit of smokiness.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec, $11, there is a proliferation of Argentine Malbecs out there, and for the money Bousquet delivers so well.

Bodegas Atalaya Almansa Laya Red Blend, $10, this is a blend of Monastrell (a powerful, dense, chewy high-alcohol red wine variety), and Garnacha Tintorera (one of the few red varieties whose pulp and juice is red also).

Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo Winemaker's Red Blend, $10, an easy-drinking staple in the large Chilean Concha y Toro winery's lineup. Fresh black fruit, licorice, and a touch of green bell pepper.

Gnarly Head 1924 Lodi Red Blend, $10, an opulent, blackberry jam and raisiny wine that is very soft on the palate.

Total for the 12 wines is $128. Take 10% off, and that's $115.20. Connecticut sales tax is 6.35%, so that gets us to a grand total of $122.52. That puts us in the lower range of what I categorized above. You are getting a nice spread of regions and grape varieties in this, too. Keep in mind that I have also listed these in order of how you might want to taste them if you were to do an absurd 12-bottle flight!

Hopefully, this gives you a great starting point in building your own case, but as always you know where to find me if you have questions. Good luck!