Why You Should Drink More Japanese Whisky

The two whiskies above took home major awards in 2008. How did Japan make its mark in an industry dominated by Scotland, Ireland, and the United States? Read on to find out more.

As you may know, I run a bunch of spirits programs at the store (which is in the running for Best Wine & Spirits Shop, by the way!) here in Connecticut. Along the way, I have had returning students provide feedback on what they would like to see in future classes. A frequent (and somewhat surprising) request was that I hold a course discussing Japanese whisky.

I said to myself, "Self...why not? We should have a nice response if we are getting that many folks looking to learn more about what Japan has to offer the whisky drinker." When I saw that two dozen fans of the topic signed up for the class, that just confirmed something that I have been thinking about for quite some time: Japanese whisky is an alcohol category that is real and deserves your attention.

The most amazing part of Japanese whisky is that it has only been commercially viable for less than 100 years. It all started with two men who laid the foundation for success: Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru. Torii started an import company that focused on Spanish wines. He found that it didn't go over well, so he turned his attention to finding western-style liquors that would suit the local palate. In 1918, Torii sent Taketsuru to the University of Glasgow in Scotland to learn all he could about how Scotch whisky was made.

Yoichi was not built to be a Scotch whisky copycat, but rather in reverence to Scotland. 

During Taketsuru's time there as a student, he also apprenticed at the Longmorn and Hazelburn distilleries. He returned to the Osaka area, married to a Scottish woman, ready to partner with Torii's company (that later became Suntory) to build the Yamazaki distillery in 1923. When the first product launched in 1929, it wasn't the successful product they had hoped it would be, leading to some philosophical differences and eventual split. In 1934, Taketsuru ventured off on his own to the northern island of Hokkaido, where he felt the environment most resembled Scotland's climate and could therefore emulate Scotch whisky in Japan. Taketsuru built Yoichi (which still stands today), which is part of the Nikka Whisky group that includes the Miyagikyo distillery. Taketsuru's goal to recreate Scotch whisky came true as today, Nikka makes a range of malt, grain, and blended whiskies that have won many awards, including best single malt whisky (Yoichi 20 Year) of 2008 in the World Whisky Awards.

Despite butting heads when it came to philosophy, these two provided the foundation for the good fortune Japanese whisky is starting to enjoy today. Image credit: Whizzky

Meanwhile, Suntory added Hakushu distillery to Yamazaki to increase its capabilities. Torii wanted to make whisky that would appeal to the Japanese palate with mild, delicate qualities and clarity of flavors (which you will certainly find in the Hibiki range). After Torii passed away, the company diversified into non-alcoholic beverages and holistic supplements and by 2014 purchased Beam Global (Jim Beam, and other brands) for US$16B. Suntory's Hibiki 30 Year blended whisky won best blended whisky of 2008 in the World Whisky Awards.

So 2008 was a major turning point for a country who endured World War II and subsequent recovery, high alcohol taxes on domestic production, the availability of cheap imported whisky (that cost less than what was being produced domestically), and an economic downturn in the 1990s. While Torii and Taketsuru took different paths, each stuck to his guns philosophically and each made his mark on the whisky industry that led to the influx of Japanese products we are seeing on shelves today.

Aside from the two major players of Suntory and Nikka, who are juggernauts producing many different styles and labels, there are also smaller distilleries, most of which were founded as sake breweries and shochu producers, making much smaller quantities of high quality whisky. These once part-time distilleries are seeing so much demand for their products, they are slowly evolving into full time, serious whisky players. This brings me to what we tasted in our class this past Thursday night. We chose six whiskies from the independent/small distillers to show students where Japanese whisky is today. Additionally, with demand through the roof for Japanese whisky, prices of the well-known larger brands from Suntory and Nikka are skyrocketing. I wanted to offer a lower barrier to entry for someone to get started in exploring Japanese whisky.

With the help of my friend and outstanding sales rep from Skurnik Wines & Spirits, we were able to put together an awesome lineup that generated a lot of discussion and enjoyment. You should be able to find many of the following products in your market, but as always if you don't...ask your friendly retailer if he or she can order one for you. Find a Japanese whisky that fits your budget and give it a shot...we have so many examples available that are worth seeking out.

Mars Shinshu Iwai Blue Label ($36): This corn-based whisky shows some similarities to Bourbon with a mild sweetness. The whisky is aged for anywhere from three to eight years in different types of barrels to create an easy-drinking whisky that is a great base ingredient in cocktails. Pear, peach, and vanilla flavors with a subtle caramel sweetness on the finish.

Mars Shinshu Iwai "Tradition" ($54): Same distillery as the Iwai Blue Label, but now malted barley based and aged in a mix of Sherry, Bourbon, and "Wine" cask. Flavors and aromas are more pronounced with cherry fruit, honey, toffee, ginger, and a gentle smokiness. Spicy on the finish.

Matsui Shuzo Kurayoshi Pure Malt ($60): This is 100% malted barley, with whisky ages ranging from three to eighteen years in Bourbon casks. Soft texture with a fragrant nose of raisins, roasted nuts, and vanilla. This whisky is also available in a Sherry cask version.

Ohishi Brandy Cask ($66): Ohishi was traditionally a sake and shochu producer being located in the southern island of Kyushu, so their whiskies use rice as the base material. Distilled in stainless steel (rather than copper) pots, this leads to a silky-textured whisky that has spent three to 25 years in Cognac barrels. Bottled unfiltered, flavors of dried pineapples, fresh exotic fruits, and vanilla are complemented by delicate floral notes.

Ohishi Sherry Cask ($66): Sherry wine definitely comes through on this whisky, so you fans of Macallan and Dalmore should be looking this way if you want to try something different. Dried figs, golden raisins, hazelnuts, and almonds come through with a tropical fruitiness that makes this incredibly enjoyable.

Eigashima/White Oak Distillery Akashi Ume Whisky ($37): This is a unique beverage that is almost like a ready-to-drink cocktail. Malt whisky is infused with green sour Japanese plums (a.k.a. "ume") and rock sugar, then married in barrel for six to twelve months. This can easily be poured over ice or mixed with club soda to make a refreshing drink. Additionally, this could be an interesting component of a Japanese take on an Old Fashioned or Whisky Sour.

What We Are Drinking In February

Another round of brutal wintertime sickness put me behind the 8-ball once again when it comes to sharing some fun drinking info. However, a lot has developed behind the scenes where I am going to be busy in the month of February. This is thrilling for me as it will help me push through the rest of this awful winter with some tremendous events and classes.

If you are in Southeastern Connecticut, you won't want to miss these.

Frederick Wildman 2016 Burgundy Tasting (Trade only), February 8th

Frederick Wildman & Sons is an importer/distributor of fine wines, who will be hosting an event in Boston showcasing wines of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. Winemakers will be on-hand, so this will be a fun one. You will certainly get a report of the experience from me sometime next week.

Japanese Whisky Class at Divine Wine, February 15th

I will be launching a Japanese whisky session in the store's classroom from 7:00-9:00pm, featuring a range of whiskies acquired by Skurnik Wines & Spirits in 2017. More Japanese whisky products seem to be hitting shelves weekly as it is the fastest-growing whisky category at the moment. This course will expand on basic topics covered in my Whisk(e)y 101 sessions and take a deeper dive into what's happening in Japan. Just $20 per student. You can register by calling (860) 691-1053.

Wine 101 at Divine Wine, Begins February 21st

The Boss himself, Ken Turcotte, will be running his awesome wine foundation course over three consecutive Wednesday nights beginning February 21st, 7:00-9:00pm. Ken has delivered this course to over 1,000 students during the store's 15 years of existence. Taste wines and discuss all aspects of wine from field to bottle in a casual setting. Tuition is $100 for the three-week package, which includes study materials and wines. Call (860) 691-1053 to register and make payment.

Trimbach visits Divine Wine, February 22nd

We are in for a real treat later this month as Jean Trimbach of legendary Alsace wine producer Maison Trimbach, presents a range of wines in the Divine Wine classroom from 7:00-8:30pm. Trimbach has been making exquisite wines since 1626. This is one I am not going to miss. Absolutely FREE to attend, but you can buy wines at the end of the program if you like. Call (860) 691-1053 to RSVP.

Whisk(e)y: A Seasonal Transition Of Flavors

For the whisk(e)y drinker, we have hit a point on the calendar where you may be looking for a change. Spring is great for that; after all, the season represents rebirth and youthful exuberance. You have to see how our small shore town in southeastern Connecticut has suddenly come alive with people out walking or running much more. The raw gray days are slowly being replaced by sunny skies and gentle warmth.

Of course in other parts of the country, you guys are rocketing toward summer and might already be in a different mindset. With today's goal being to show you a way to transition from deeper, heavier winter whiskies to livelier but still flavorful versions, I may encounter a bit of a challenge in presenting something unifying. As it is, Easter Sunday will be an 80-degree outlier that is followed up by a need for a sweater in the coming days.

Additionally as we have learned here before, whisk(e)y has a wide spectrum of styles to choose from, so again seeking common ground isn't easy. However, there are a few of good rules to follow if you have an open mind and tend to be a seasonal drinker:

1. Go for younger whiskies

With Single Malt Scotch or Irish, 12 years or less is preferred, but some examples could be stretched to 15 years. Younger whiskies tend to have those fresher more vibrant flavors, like grass, flowers, heather, and fresh fruit. Peated whiskies are very pronounced, fiery, and intense on the nose. With demand continuing to skyrocket for premium aged whiskies, look for some No Age Statement single malts (many will be a combo of ages from three to ten years) or some blended whiskies (which will have lighter cereal grains or unmalted barley). 

To me, this is one reason why Bourbon is popular; Bourbon tastes really good in its youth thanks to new American oak barrels that impart a ton of flavor very quickly. The base grain of corn leads to soft whiskey with a sweet finish that makes it easy to enjoy young. The combination of these two aspects makes Bourbon taste like Bourbon!

2. Keep an eye out for rye

For American or New World whiskies, seek out Bourbon whiskey with rye heavily involved in the blend (anything upwards of 20% as a little goes a long way) or try a straight rye (where rye makes up at least 51% of the blend), such as Bulleit Rye (a steal at $28). If you have tasted rye bread before, you notice how pungent and distinct it is, but also how flavorful it is without being too dense. That's how rye whiskey presents itself, too.

Good quality Canadian whisky often has a significant proportion of rye, so if you encounter an artisanal product coming from north of the border, give it a shot!

3. Head to Asia

Japan produces whisky along the same rules as a peated Scotch whisky, but rather than a spirit that is rich and malty, flavors are clean and transparent with lots of fresh orchard fruit (apple, peach, and plum come to mind) and a floral character on the nose. Some producers use Japanese oak that increases the floral/perfume character and imparts a little peppery spice. Japan experiments with many grains in blended whiskies, leading to leaner and lighter-bodied spirits. These are all techniques that will provide you with a lively finished product.

Another place to look? Taiwan!

So whether you are a seasonal drinker, or are just looking to change up your stash in the home bar, I have a few ways you can go.

If you want Scotch...

Glenkinchie 12 Year Old ($55-ish): One of the few Lowland distilleries in operation, Glenkinchie's flagship product gives you light citrus, fresh flowers, and a touch of vanilla cream. With a drying, herbal finish this is great with light salty snacks. 

Other good choices include Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch ($30), and Glenmorangie Original ($35, a staple which I give to people who claim they don't like Scotch)

If you want Bourbon...

Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey ($28): during a time where Bourbon's popularity is at an all-time high, it's good to see Buffalo Trace hasn't gotten too out-of-control on price. There is noticeable rye on the finish in this otherwise balanced example, but the rye is what we are looking for in the warmer weather. With flavors of vanilla, brown sugar, and fresh oranges, this is a crowd-pleaser.

Other good options include Woodford Reserve ($40, my go-to for the Kentucky Derby) and Basil Hayden's ($45) for their higher rye proportions; Basil Hayden's might be close to one-third rye.

If you want something off the beaten path...

Hibiki Harmony ($66): For the whisky nerds out there, the Harmony has a broad spectrum of gentle flavors and aromas. Delicate and light-bodied, this has tropical and exotic fruit flavors, backed by wild herbs, roses, and a pleasant woodiness. There is an incense-like note on the end that is a signature of the use of Japanese oak. If you can find it, try it! 

Whisk(e)y: 'I' Before 'E', Except When It's 'Y' (Either Is Good And I'll Tell You Why)

I am a lucky person. I have great family and friends who love to explore adult beverages, and I have been fortunate to taste some killer stuff. I also have a job that allows me to design and lead spirits classes at my local shop, thanks to an awesome boss who has complete faith in me and my abilities. Additionally, my time spent taking classes with the WSET really helped me learn about and appreciate all kinds of distilled beverages: Gin, Rum, Tequila, Cognac, and of course...whisky.

Or is it whiskey?

So how is it spelled? Does it even matter? We see both spellings on labels, so doesn't there have to be a reason the 'e' is choosing to infiltrate our whisk(e)y?

All spirits trace their roots back to ancient times, where the first evidence of chemical distillation was started by alchemists in ancient Greece, but alcoholic distillation is believed to have started in the 13th century in Italy. These products were used to treat all sorts of diseases and general pestilence, and when the sick were being restored to good health, the term aqua vitae or "water of life" was used to describe these medicinal wonders. When these techniques spread throughout medieval Europe, other terms evolved such as the Dutch brandewijn ("burnt wine"), which later became simply "brandy," and the Slavic voda ("water"), which later became known as vodka. Within the United Kingdom, Usquebaugh (Scottish Gaelic) and Uisge Bethea (Irish Gaelic) also translated to "water of life." 

And when the two Gaelic terms were translated/anglicized, for whatever the reason the 'e' stuck in Irish Whiskey, while the 'e' never made it into Scottish Whisky. When Irish immigrants came to the United States with their knowledge of distilling from grains, the American producers started to use the 'e' in their whiskey labels. That is why your bottles of Bourbon are called "Whiskey."

"But Tony," you may be asking, "what about this?"

An excellent question! The Samuels family, who produces Maker's Mark traces their roots to Scotland, not Ireland. Therefore, they chose to roll with the Scottish spelling. Along with Scotch omitting the 'e', so does Canadian Whisky; one of Scotland's first colonies was in Canada back in the 1600s, and their influence has been felt ever since...no 'e' is getting in their whisky!

You might also notice more products are coming in from Japan lately; they also omit the 'e' on whisky labels, mainly because they pattern the majority of their styles after Scotch whisky far more than Irish Whiskey or Bourbon. 

So there you have it. Whether you like whisky or whiskey, there are so many out there to sample. Whether it is Scotch, Irish, American, or from some other part of the world, whisk(e)y has never been more popular. Two years ago, the Glenfiddich distillery surpassed one million cases shipped worldwide, a first for a single malt Scotch whisky. Glenlivet is about to do the same. Craft distilleries all over the United States are making tremendous, unique Bourbons and other American whiskey distilled from countless combinations of grains. We have a lot to taste and talk about...how is this a bad thing?

There's a ton to enjoy, so I have narrowed down six for you. Keep in mind that whisk(e)y prices are on the rise and sometimes there is fluctuation from store to store and state to state. Nothing I listed here is cheap, but they are incredibly satisfying starting points for you to begin your adventure...whether you prefer the 'e' or not.

Three without the 'e':

Glenmorangie Original ($40): I just ran out of this in my own bar, which is the best-selling single malt Scotch in Scotland. With its citrus and vanilla flavors, Glenmorangie Original (10 Year Old) is the Scotch I recommend to those who claim they don't like Scotch; it gets them every time. It should be a whisky staple in your home bar.

Forty Creek Double Barrel Reserve ($54): Whisky Maker John Hall creates three separate whiskies made from rye, barley, and corn and ages them all in their own barrels. Then, when the time is right, he blends all three and ages the blend in Bourbon barrels. The result is a full-bodied nutty, spicy whisky that is easy to enjoy at the end of the day by a fire. I have referred to this as "dessert whisky" in my Whisk(e)y 101 classes.

Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky 90 Proof ($65): While Japan's template follows the peated examples from the Scottish islands, this example resembles Bourbon in some ways, as it is mostly made from corn. While it has some sweet vanilla and caramel flavors, the main distinction from a Bourbon whisky is a noticeable meaty/smoky character. This is a welcoming, well-made Japanese whisky and is a fun one to try. 

Three with the 'e':

Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old Irish Whiskey ($44): Jameson is certainly the most popular Irish whiskey in America, however Knappogue Castle is strictly a single malt Irish whiskey that is easy to love. Tropical fruit, vanilla, and toasted marshmallow flavors show up in this whiskey that was aged all 12 years in Bourbon casks. This also went over very well with the beginner and connoisseur alike in my last class. You owe to yourself to try this as it delivered big time for the price.

Colonel E.H. Taylor Bourbon Whiskey 100 Proof ($47): I have had multiple friends tell me I needed to try this, and when I found E.H. Taylor at a fantastic wine and spirits shop in Chattanooga this summer, I had to go for it. It's rich, creamy, spicy and fulfilling on a winter evening. There is a little heat on the back of the throat, but when that subsides you are left with caramel apple pie flavor with baking spices lingering long on the palate. This is a steal. 

Balcones "1" Single Malt Texas Whiskey ($90): That's right...single malt whisky from Texas. The first time I tasted this, it was given to me without knowing it and I was blown away. This is 100% malted barley and made in the same process as a Scotch whisky, but it is very clear this does not taste 100% like Scotch. It also doesn't taste like a typical Bourbon. Caramel, pecans, vanilla, peach jam, and the entire rack of baking spices (cinnamon, cloves, allspice, nutmeg) make an appearance in this very complex whiskey. If you were good this past holiday season and saved a few bucks along the way, I highly recommend giving this a shot.