Have No Fear...I'm Still Here

The time between Thanksgiving and New Year’s tends be a little hectic, and things have finally slowed down to a more manageable pace. Despite not having posted about booze in a while, trust me…I have been sampling plenty of good stuff and you deserve to know about it.

So today I am keeping it very simple: here’s a three-bottle flight of French wines I have tasted since Thanksgiving that is worth your time, money, and effort to find in your local beverage depot. Three different styles from three different regions of France. Ready…go!

Domaine du Petit Clocher Anjou Blanc ($14): Chenin Blanc continues to be an underrated grape variety, and you get 100% of it here. Lemon curd flavors and a fleshy texture are countered by a zing of acidity to balance things out. A solid way to introduce yourself to the Loire Valley’s style of Chenin Blanc.

Pascal Aufranc Chénas Vignes de 1939 ($16): The “Cru” level wines of Beaujolais have always been some of my favorite light reds as they have more substance than village-level Baeujolais and definitely more depth than the candy-like Nouveau. This wine is made from 80 year old vines, featuring violet aromas, vibrant strawberry fruit, and a stony/earthy character with gentle tannins.

Chateau d’Arcins Haut-Medoc ($25): A 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot., this wine shows textbook blackberry and cedarwood flavors and aromas with noticeable tannin and acid that are synonymous with Bordeaux from the Left Bank. The wine I had was from the 2014 vintage, which is a damn fine year for Bordeaux, but you may need to let the wine air out a bit to soften (pour this into a decanter and let it sit for a couple of hours before drinking). With time, the texture becomes more plush, the blackberry fruit seems riper and more powerful, and a dark chocolatey note seems to come out on the finish.

Wines "&" Spirits "&" Beers...Oh My!

How come these letters never made it into the English language? Credit: Dr. Seuss' On Beyond Zebra

I can't get enough of the National Days of the Year Calendar. I am always amazed at what topic or category deserves our attention and awareness. There are some that are for a good cause (HIV awareness, POW/MIA Recognition) and some that are simply out there (National Crush a Can Day?). Did you know that tomorrow is National Ampersand (&) Day?

Yes! This little symbol that supposedly used to be the last letter of the alphabet has its own day. The symbol that is supposed to be "e" and "t" mashed together, where the Latin word "et" in fact means "and," is to be celebrated on September 8th every year! My goodness.

Let's have some fun today. Go ahead and give recognition to the ex-27th letter of the alphabet. Let's do this by grabbing a bottle of your favorite alcoholic beverage with a "&" on the label. Need some ideas? I have some outstanding producers for you to seek out.

Here's to you & whoever else is celebrating National Ampersand Day!

Moët & Chandon: The legendary wine you see from this Champagne house is the Dom Perignon range, but you don't have to reach for the top shelf if you don't want to. Brut Imperial will do you just fine.

Bouchard Pere & Fils: This Burgundy negociant offers a wide range of expressions from many villages throughout the region. Here in Connecticut, we have access to many of their Chardonnay wines from the Côte de Beaune region, but a white or red wine simply labeled "Bourgogne" will help you stay under $20.

Nickel & Nickel: This Napa Valley winery specialized in many single vineyard expressions. These are excellent New World wines that are going to be pricey, but they will deliver.

Cooper & Thief: These folks are capitalizing on the newest winemaking craze, aging red wine in Bourbon barrels. Of all the producers making this style of wine, I find Cooper & Thief does it best.

Wells & Young's: I didn't find many beer producers with the "&" in its name, but one thing I remember about Wells & Young's is their delicious Double Chocolate Stout.

Wray & Nephew: Their signature product is the Overproof White Rum, clocking in at an astounding 62.75% abv (125.5 Proof). It is pungent, fiery, and great in any rum-based cocktail like a traditional Daiquiri or a Mojito.

Gordon & Macphail: For 123 years, Gordon & Macphail has sought out casks from Scotch distilleries to bottle as single malts under their own labels. The portfolio is comprehensive, with non-traditional age statements and individual "vintages" dated on the labels.

You Need This: Chablis Edition

Back in ye olden days of drinking in the United States, we knew far less about wine than we do now. The most accessible wines we had in the 1970s and 1980s were often found in three-liter jugs. Mystery wines with names like "Hearty Burgundy," and "Rhine Riesling." We just took those names for what they were and moved on. We paid no attention to the authenticity of the wines and where they came from. Eventually, wines were increasingly imported from Europe that displayed unique character and tasted great. Demand increased for these wines of provenance. Consumers today want to know more about wine than ever before. One particular wine that is benefiting from a change in consumer attitudes is Chablis.

Thanks to a solid stretch of quality vintages, Chablis is gaining a lot of steam; here on the shores of Eastern Connecticut, summer visitors and seafood lovers can't wait to get their hands on bottles. These steely, high-acid wines are made solely from Chardonnay grapes. Because the style is so lean and so Old World-like in nature, I love recommending these wines to people who are in the "Anything But Chardonnay" crowd. Thanks to its location in the far north of Burgundy (and physically closer to the Champagne regions than its closest Burgundian neighbor), the growing season is short, but gets plenty of sunshine during critical times in the development of healthy grapes. The result is ripe grapes that are not fleshy in texture that you find in Napa Valley examples, but rather the other end of the spectrum: light, lean, and exceptionally food-friendly.

I was fortunate enough to have gone to a tasting earlier in the year where I sampled many 2016 vintages from several producers. The one conclusion I could come to across all of the wines is that they were surprisingly fruity and approachable for being so young. Many Chablis wines can be "tight", where all you feel is the acid in the wine's youth and it needs time to come together in the bottle for a few years. But if you encounter a 2016 Chablis, you will have a great feel for the style, though with rough weather reducing the crop sizes you may be paying a few bucks more per bottle than you would have in 2015. Domaine Christian Moreau and Domaine Billaud-Salmon are two producers in particular that stood out, so look for their wines.

Additionally, if you can get your hands on a bottle of Josephine Dubois' Chablis Premier Cru Montmains "Terre Minerale", it's a great way to try a wine from a really good vineyard while staying in the $25ish range.

Now as for how this ties into the jug and box wines that you see on the shelves labeled "Chablis", note that these wines typically source Chenin Blanc and Colombard grapes from the hot Central Valley of California; they are easy to grow and mass-produce to keep the costs down. You can get a lot of wine for very little money, but it is certainly not going to be Chablis. With that, I have to mention that this was a favorite wine of my store manager when I worked in New Jersey. My old coworker (and current friend) and I used to joke with her about the Peter Vella box of Chablis she would bring to the beach and drop ice cubes into it. So even though it is not the real thing, not Chardonnay, not from France...I raise a glass of it today after she passed away suddenly last week.

The lesson as always...drink what you enjoy, no matter what it is.

What We Are Drinking In February

Another round of brutal wintertime sickness put me behind the 8-ball once again when it comes to sharing some fun drinking info. However, a lot has developed behind the scenes where I am going to be busy in the month of February. This is thrilling for me as it will help me push through the rest of this awful winter with some tremendous events and classes.

If you are in Southeastern Connecticut, you won't want to miss these.

Frederick Wildman 2016 Burgundy Tasting (Trade only), February 8th

Frederick Wildman & Sons is an importer/distributor of fine wines, who will be hosting an event in Boston showcasing wines of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. Winemakers will be on-hand, so this will be a fun one. You will certainly get a report of the experience from me sometime next week.

Japanese Whisky Class at Divine Wine, February 15th

I will be launching a Japanese whisky session in the store's classroom from 7:00-9:00pm, featuring a range of whiskies acquired by Skurnik Wines & Spirits in 2017. More Japanese whisky products seem to be hitting shelves weekly as it is the fastest-growing whisky category at the moment. This course will expand on basic topics covered in my Whisk(e)y 101 sessions and take a deeper dive into what's happening in Japan. Just $20 per student. You can register by calling (860) 691-1053.

Wine 101 at Divine Wine, Begins February 21st

The Boss himself, Ken Turcotte, will be running his awesome wine foundation course over three consecutive Wednesday nights beginning February 21st, 7:00-9:00pm. Ken has delivered this course to over 1,000 students during the store's 15 years of existence. Taste wines and discuss all aspects of wine from field to bottle in a casual setting. Tuition is $100 for the three-week package, which includes study materials and wines. Call (860) 691-1053 to register and make payment.

Trimbach visits Divine Wine, February 22nd

We are in for a real treat later this month as Jean Trimbach of legendary Alsace wine producer Maison Trimbach, presents a range of wines in the Divine Wine classroom from 7:00-8:30pm. Trimbach has been making exquisite wines since 1626. This is one I am not going to miss. Absolutely FREE to attend, but you can buy wines at the end of the program if you like. Call (860) 691-1053 to RSVP.

Building A Case...For A Few More Dollars

Earlier this week, I shared with you an easy strategy for building a case of wine that sought value and quality. Today, we take it to a different level. Assuming you have saved up your schillings, received a bonus, or just feel like spending money on wine, well I have a "version 2.0" guide for you when you are looking to find 12 tasty bottles. Whether you are dropping $10 or $100 a bottle on wine, I am always going to steer you to something that delivers high a quality-to-price ratio.

When you have extra money on-hand for that case, new doors open up not just at higher price points, but it gives you access to regions and styles that just aren't widely available in the $10 range. Here are some points of interest to consider when buying a mixed case of wine when money is less of an object, but not growing on trees by any means.

New Zealand has the highest average selling price per bottle of wine of any winemaking country. While there are some large brands that you can find in the $10-$12 range, there are many that exceed $15. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Gewurztraminer can all cost you. However, if you like the bold tropical zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc, or the clean, aromatic fruit in Gewurztraminer, now is the time to include a New Zealand wine.

Austrian wines command high prices with the precision and balance that shows in their wines. Grüner Veltliner has become quite popular and doesn't really grow anywhere else in the world, so again while there are some good entry-level wines in the $10-$12 neighborhood, go for a wine from a small producer that has complex citrusy/minerally/peppery flavors.

Wines from Burgundy can be very expensive, partially due to the fact that vineyard land is some of the most expensive in the world. Prime sites in many villages make long-lived wines, but there are also more accessible examples that don't require you to empty your bank account if you want to dive into Burgundy. Try Chardonnay wines from the Mâcon region in the south. Additionally, seek out the wines from a négociant to try any Burgundian region's typical style. Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, and Bouchard Pere et Fils are just a few of the larger examples that you should be able to find for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Oregon makes some outstanding wines, with Pinot Noir being the superstar of the Willamette Valley. Finding a good Pinot Noir in the sub-$20 range can be a challenge and many examples from Oregon start at about $20. Oregon tends to strike the right balance of fruitiness and earthiness.

Wines from Napa Valley aren't cheap, and if you like your red blends to be a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend a la Bordeaux, there are plenty to be found in the $20 and over range. If you had been purchasing some "everyday" Bordeaux reds in the $12 price point, shoot for the wines with a defined geography such as "Medoc" or "Saint-Emilion", which will cost a few dollars more, but it will give you a sense of what a wine tastes like when grown from vineyards within a smaller parcel of vineyards.

In the Rhone Valley, it's up to you if you want to shoot for Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage, as each of those wines will hit you for $40 and way upward in many cases. However, if you reach for some of the lesser-known subregions like "Gigondas" or "Crozes-Hermitage," you will pay a fraction of the price of their more expensive brethren. This is where chatting with your friendly local wine merchant will help you a lot.

In Italy, you can start checking out the great grape of Nebbiolo, famous in the Piedmont region and most notably in the sub-region of Barolo and Barbaresco. Like the two Rhone wines above, they can cost you plenty, but wines labeled "Nebbiolo d'Alba" or "Langhe Nebbiolo" will often encompass vineyards outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco communes, giving you something lighter in body, but more approachable in youth (which means you don't need to stick them in the cellar to evolve and harmonize).

Spanish wine's most popular export to the U.S. is wines from Rioja. Now is a great time to go for the wines with some extended oak aging. Look for wines labeled "Crianza," "Reserva," and "Gran Reserva," all of which will increase in price thanks to the amount of time spent in barrel. The great news about Rioja is that wines are always released ready to drink, needing no further aging if you don't want to stash them in the cellar.

Let's not forget the sparkling wine here, too! I'm not saying you have to shoot on up to Champagne, which is truly a delicious sparkling wine that deserves the recognition it gets. However, if you seek out "Crémant" wines, which are sparkling wines made in non-Champagne French regions the same way they are made in Champagne. A Crémant can be found for roughly half the price of a large Champagne house's flagship non-vintage wine for regions like Burgundy (Bourgogne), Limoux (Southern France), Alsace, and Loire.

If you are a Port or Sherry fan, go for a nice bottle of one of your favorite fortified wines. If you need something versatile to cook with as well as drink, an Amontillado Sherry is a nice buy here. As we approach fall, if you enjoy time in the kitchen there will be some recipes calling for a Port sauce. A Ruby Port is fiery and fruity enough to add flavor, but also a nice warming beverage on a chilly night. You can typically find an example of each Port and Sherry style for around $15. Each style also gives you a good baseline of what to expect from an individual producer if you were to venture into their other styles.

So here's what that case looks like if we take the items discussed above into account with specific products. Additionally, we will refer back to the Value Case we did earlier this week and use that as a springboard into other wines.

Marie-Pierre Manciat Crémant de Bourgogne ($23): A fine sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay in sustainable vineyards. Floral with orange and lemon peel aromas, peachy on the palate, and very lively with persistent bubbles. Killer value.

Weingut Loimer, Grüner Veltliner Langenlois ($19): Grüner Veltliner's peppery character is on display, with green apples, minerals, and soft herbs, along with a creamy texture. Finishes dry and refreshing! 

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($20): We have been seeing the price of the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc reach the $18-$19 price point over the last few years. For a buck or two more, it is worth your time and money to try this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, whose passionfruit and grapefruit character gets a boost of 

Cave de Lugny, Mâcon-Villages La Côte Blanche ($15): The thing I love about the Mâcon region is how it can be a great way to introduce you to Old World Chardonnay, while retaining riper stone fruit and tropical fruit flavors.

Fairview Cape Granite White Blend ($16): I can't help but be an advocate for South African wine. You tried the Tormentoso Chenin Blanc from the Value Case. For a few dollars more, try a white blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc for a full-bodied, wildly aromatic wine experience.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($25): Fresh red cherry fruit and red plums, with herbs, baking spices, and a touch of smoke. This is a great way to get introduced to an Oregon Pinot Noir if you haven't tried one before. If you have tried one, this has been a consistently good product from vintage to vintage.

Château Lanessan Haut-Medoc ($25, 2014 vintage): Bordeaux feels the impact of vintage variation more than most winemaking regions with its marginal climate. After a string of leaner, more traditional Bordeaux vintages (2011-2013), this 2014 from a solid property located in the upper Medoc peninsula gives you a wine loaded with black cherries and pipe tobacco, thyme, a touch of woody character.

Scavino Langhe Nebbiolo ($20): Nebbiolo's inherent flavors of red cherry fruit and roses are complemented by eucalyptus and tobacco. Nebbiolo can be forceful despite the pale ruby color; it is loaded with tannin and acid meant for long-haul aging, but in this more approachable version, the structural components are as intense thanks to shorter skin contact during fermentation. A great entryway to get to know Nebbiolo from a traditional producer. 

Martin Cendoya Rioja Reserva ($21): Dark berry fruit with earthiness and a noticeable oak component, which smooths out some harsh edges you can get from Tempranillo when it is young. Vanilla and a slight toffee note help illustrate the impact of 14 month barrel aging and additional time in bottle before being released to the market, ready to drink now.

Domaine du Terme Gigondas ($28): I picked this up for my birthday back in December. It is my favorite French red wine region. Neighbor of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas is based on Grenache, with small percentages of Syrah and Mourvedre added to the blend. Gigondas has offered more stability to me in terms of quality and price, whereas Chateauneuf-du-Pape can be all over the map. Fresh blackerry fruit, violets, and Herbes de Provence, show up in this wine that I really enjoyed on my big day.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec Reserva ($16): You got the introductory Malbec in the value case. Go back and get the Reserva, which spent 12 months in oak barrel and see what's different!

Quinta do Noval Fine Ruby Port ($17): A single estate Port (compared to a blend of estates produced by the larger companies), this is an easy one to carry in the cellar if you are a Port fan. Raspberry and blackberry fruit, but warming and well-balanced.

So total is $245. With a 10% discount and Connecticut sales tax, this is a $234.50 case, roughly twice the cost of our Value Case earlier in the week. If you had these 24 bottles lined up in your wine fridge/cellar, I think you are off to a heck of a start! Stay with me as we keep exploring. Send me feedback...let me know if you tasted ANY of these wines as I would love to know what you think.

Until next time...

This Week in Tony's Cellar...

Last week was loaded with afterschool activities, rehearsals, concerts, and caring for ill children. It's not easy to find time to get some adult beveraging in with all of that going on, but by golly I found a way to make it happen! After all, part of my service to you is to share what I am drinking, which I realize I have not done nearly enough since starting this blog. You need to know what tastes good, brings you value, what might make a nice gift, and so on.

Fortunately, among the chaos of the week I tasted some terrific wines (sorry...no time for spirits or beer). The Old World triumvirate of France, Italy, and Spain dominated my liver and brought moments of happiness. I have some good things to share with you as all of these are worth seeking out and trying for yourself.

Mionetto Prosecco Brut ($16): Mionetto has been making Prosecco for 130 years, with styles ranging from casual to prestige-level. This flagship product is fresh and lightly fruity; we added some peach nectar for a simple Valentine's Day cocktail.

Bodega Otazu Navarra Premium Cuvée Red Blend ($13): Rioja's neighbor Navarra is red and rosé-dominant. Aside from traditional varieties like Tempranillo and Garnacha, Navarra also plays with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This particular blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Tempranillo, and 20% Merlot is loaded with dark cherry, blackberry and tobacco flavors. An easy weeknight red to enjoy with a juicy burger.

Château Saint-Cosme Little James' Basket Press Red ($14): Saint-Cosme is best known for its wines produced in the Gigondas region of the Rhône Valley (a neighbor of the higher-profile Châteauneuf-du-Pape region). This multi-vintage 100% Grenache is aged in concrete tanks, leading to a very fresh, yet dark and deep wine. Awesome with a medium-rare roast beef.

Maison Louis Latour Marsannay ($23): Louis Latour's wines are a consistently great way to get introduced to the individual villages of Burgundy. Red wines from Marsannay are 100% Pinot Noir, and this expression shows a mix of red and black fruit. Fragrant yet powerful on the palate, its savory finish begs for some roast duck, but a charcuterie platter or flavorful cheese (like Munster) would do just fine here, too. We had this as a reward for surviving the busy week!

As for the week coming up...

February 21st: We are tasting a range of wines from Steele of Lake County, California at the Divine Wine Emporium. Bill Bishop, National Sales Manager at Steele, joins us in the classroom. He is a fantastic storyteller and with vineyard holdings throughout California, you can get a very good feel for which styles you prefer over others. Steele's wines are a longtime favorite of the store as they consistently deliver for the price.

February 25th: I am delivering a tasting of kosher wines for a group that is preparing for Passover. The time to taste wines for the holiday table is now, and I will be showcasing an array of wines from Bordeaux, Spain, and Israel, all produced in accordance with kosher guidelines. It's a fun topic to revisit for myself, but it is also great to promote the fact that kosher wines are quite tasty!

Hope your week is off to a great start!