Have No Fear...I'm Still Here

The time between Thanksgiving and New Year’s tends be a little hectic, and things have finally slowed down to a more manageable pace. Despite not having posted about booze in a while, trust me…I have been sampling plenty of good stuff and you deserve to know about it.

So today I am keeping it very simple: here’s a three-bottle flight of French wines I have tasted since Thanksgiving that is worth your time, money, and effort to find in your local beverage depot. Three different styles from three different regions of France. Ready…go!

Domaine du Petit Clocher Anjou Blanc ($14): Chenin Blanc continues to be an underrated grape variety, and you get 100% of it here. Lemon curd flavors and a fleshy texture are countered by a zing of acidity to balance things out. A solid way to introduce yourself to the Loire Valley’s style of Chenin Blanc.

Pascal Aufranc Chénas Vignes de 1939 ($16): The “Cru” level wines of Beaujolais have always been some of my favorite light reds as they have more substance than village-level Baeujolais and definitely more depth than the candy-like Nouveau. This wine is made from 80 year old vines, featuring violet aromas, vibrant strawberry fruit, and a stony/earthy character with gentle tannins.

Chateau d’Arcins Haut-Medoc ($25): A 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot., this wine shows textbook blackberry and cedarwood flavors and aromas with noticeable tannin and acid that are synonymous with Bordeaux from the Left Bank. The wine I had was from the 2014 vintage, which is a damn fine year for Bordeaux, but you may need to let the wine air out a bit to soften (pour this into a decanter and let it sit for a couple of hours before drinking). With time, the texture becomes more plush, the blackberry fruit seems riper and more powerful, and a dark chocolatey note seems to come out on the finish.

What Are You Bringing To The Table?

It’s good to be back writing again after a lengthy layoff, and what better time to jump back in than to do it with Thanksgiving coming up. Last year, I put together a nice little Thanksgiving guide for you, but I can’t just mail in my first post in two months.

So I pose the question to you…what are you bringing to the table? Whether you are hosting or traveling, you are doing something to contribute this Thanksgiving, right? Of course you are, and perhaps you don’t know what to go for or you find yourself needing a change from the usual.

I will be honest…you can bring just about any beverage of your choosing and it will be fine. Seriously! The beauty of the Thanksgiving feast is that you have a lot of different things to choose from. Turkey itself is fairly mild and many wines will work fine. Sometimes the challenge can be strong flavors; maybe you have a lot of herbs and greens as your sides. Cranberry sauce is sweet and sour. What if you are frying or charcoal-smoking your turkey? Here are some guidelines to help you find the right wine for your holiday table.

Skip the “big” wines”

Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo have a lot of tannins, acids, and power. They overwhelm just about anything on your table. Additionally, oaky Chardonnay (particularly from the New World) will create bitter flavors on your palate. Save these wines for after dinner if you really like them.

Skip the acidic wines

Sauvignon Blanc can be aggressively acidic and feel thin and tart on your palate with all the rich foods, however acidic wines with some texture can be a very good match. Instead, lean on a white Bordeaux, which typically has Sauvignon Blanc, with some Sémillon blended in. Sémillon has a soft, honeyed texture that tamps down the piercing acids Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau Lamothe de Haux ($15) is consistently a good example.

Go classic: Pinot Noir or Gamay

Pinot Noir’s liveliness, fruitiness, and silky texture are great for Thanksgiving. The baking spices and earthiness that comes through in this grape matches particularly well. I tend to lean on Pinot Noir from Oregon or even Chile; both regions give a nice balance of the aspects I mentioned above. Additionally, Gamay from Burgundy, which you will often find as Beaujolais is lighter and fruitier than Pinot Noir and virtually no tannin. Louis Latour released a blend of these two grapes (85% Gamay, 15% Pinot Noir, $15) that to me is the ultimate Thanksgiving wine.

If you smoked your turkey…

Time to go for something a little more intense than Pinot Noir and Gamay, which are delicate and will fade behind a smoked turkey. Here is a spot to try a Zinfandel, Grenache/Syrah blend, or South African red blend. Zinfandel is plush and jammy, low in tannin but full-bodied and able to stand up to the stength of smoking. A southern French red blend (such as the $13 Mas Sauvaire from the Languedoc region) would work here, too. A.A. Badenhorst’s Secateurs ($15) is another fine option if you want to explore South Africa.

Be daring: Go with an aromatic white

Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are noble grapes in Alsace, with fruity/floral and exotic flavors and aromas. The richness of Alsace Pinot Gris is a great choice. Gewurztraminer has full-bodied tropical fruit flavors and can be very good with a ham if you have guests that don’t do turkey. Viognier is a luxurious white Rhone variety that offers similar aromas to Riesling but with more body and weight. Even better…try a blend of some of these varieties! Willm “Gentil” is a noble white Alsace blend ($13) and Korta “Irune” ($16) from Chile is Viognier, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Either would be a lot of fun at the table.

Cheat and bring bubbly

No one refuses Champagne, Prosecco, or sparkling wine of any kind. No one, I’m convinced. Plus it is a great way to start the day. Champagne Aubry ($38) is very reasonably priced with an orange zest and brioche character. Mionetto Prosecco ($12) is fun and fruity, suitable for drinking on its own or for making a cocktail. If you don’t have a Champagne budget, try a “Cremant” such as Bailly Lapierre’s Blanc de Noirs ($19).

Try Sherry

Sherry is great for any hard-to-pair meal. Heck, the Spanish drink it with their tapas, since you have so many different foods coming. It has a salty, nutty character with just the right amount of texture. An Amontillado Sherry such as Emilio Lustau’s Los Arcos ($15) is a fine way to introduce yourself to Sherry if you have never tried it before.

No need to go super-expensive…but go ahead if you want to!

I mean, you can if you want to and there is something satisfying about enjoying a high-end wine at holiday time, but chances are higher that Thanksgiving is going to be quantity-driven. I am helping you keep costs down by keeping my recommendations under $20 where possible.

With that, I wish you a very Happy Thanksgiving. Cheers!

Recovering from a 40-Day Blitz, Part I

This could not be more true about me at this stage of my life.

Well, here we are. It's 2018, and with the way Thanksgiving landed on the calendar this year, there was roughly one extra week leading up to Christmas Day. That's seven more days of rich foods, dessert after lunch, and holiday parties with friends/family/co-workers (I'm already full just writing that last sentence). Additionally, we blew through our budgets for holiday goodies, picking up gifts for others, a roast, baking supplies, booze...whatever it was, December tends to be a time of indulgence among all the cheer and giving.

Who needs resolutions?

Some of you are looking to get back to some healthier eating and drinking patterns if you went too hard the past forty days. Perhaps your body is looking for a vegetable or a salad to help get things right, maybe even some seafood. If this is the case and you are also a wine-drinker, we can restock the cellar with some solid everyday white and red wines that pair well with some of these so-called "detox" foods, yet still offer warmth and satisfaction considering that a large swath of the country remains under Old Man Winter's icy grip.

So as I warm up my writing chops for this year, I'll keep things simple. Two white wines and two red wines are listed below to help you get 2018 started right. It's a new year, so get to know a some new grapes while enjoying some old favorites.

Michel Gassier Cercius ($12): Costières de Nîmes is an outlying region of the Rhône Valley of France, where the bulk of Gassier's wines are labeled. It is a winemaking region that frequently delivers great value in its red wines, and white wines are incredibly cheap. The Cercius is a non-standard blend of Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, offering a great balance of texture, body, and mouthwatering acidity that will work with your salads.

L'Ecole No. 41 Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($16): This is a great New World take on a Vouvray (Loire Valley) style of Chenin Blanc. Unoaked and fruit-forward, this is a refreshing Chenin Blanc with passionfruit, citrus, and golden apples on the palate with a pleasant floral aroma and a touch of sweetness on the finish. This is going to be tremendous with some sushi or exotically spiced dishes (Thai or Indian cuisine). 

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages ($11): This is a versatile old favorite that is great to keep on-hand when you need a light, fruity red. Bursting with red berry fruit, you can enjoy this with sauteed leafy greens like kale and Swiss chard, but it is light enough in tannin where you can also pair this with fish rich in Omega-3s like salmon (FYI...full-bodied, high tannin reds do not mix well with salmon's Omega-3 compounds, leading to a metallic taste in your mouth).

Santa Carolina Pinot Noir Reserva, Maule Valley ($11): Chile is quickly establishing itself as a good source of inexpensive Pinot Noir, a grape that can be difficult to find wallet-friendly sources of good wine. The example from Santa Carolina has plenty of cherry fruit with earthy tones and a spicy finish. If you are a fan of mushrooms and bean-based dishes, this is an easy one to grab.

The Obligatory Wines To Go With Thanksgiving Post

It arrived rather quickly, but those of us who haven't already moved on to Christmas are making preparations for Thanksgiving Day. It's one of my favorite holidays; I get to eat, drink, and watch football in a larger quantity than I would on any autumn Sunday. I love how the air smells; it is filled with all kinds of sweet and savory goodness. It's many of the usual suspects for the majority of us, right? Turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, veggies, and pies are typical, but if you aren't a turkey fan, or a meat eater at all, there might be some other items coming out of the oven or perhaps off of a barbecue.

Nevertheless, the blitz of food needs some tasty beverages to help keep everything moving. While I know beer, cocktails, and sippin' spirits are all delicious, the scope of today's post is to help you find some good wine options. With Thanksgiving serving as our first major feast day of the cold weather months, chances are you will be bringing out a ton of different food options, including the ones I mentioned above. So how do you go about choosing a good wine for foods that will taste rich, savory, herbaceous, fruity, and so on? Here is one basic rule of thumb to follow:

Keep it simple.

I know that's a vague statement on my part, but honestly it holds true here. You will have so many aromas, flavors and textures fighting one another on your plate that you need a wine to bring it all together. It should typically be one that has plenty of acidity (to help you digest large volumes of food), straightforward fruitiness, and body (to harmonize everything on the plate). Certain parts of the meal are enhanced even more if the wine has an interesting spice or floral note. On the other end of the spectrum, if you are looking to break out that super-expensive bottle from the cellar, Thanksgiving dinner isn't necessarily the time for that. The high-end wines that have a ton of complex flavors never get the chance to stand out. Save the special bottle for a simple-yet-elegant dinner (you will see what I mean when I do my Christmas post. Trust me, so stay tuned).

Barberani's Castagnolo Orvieto Classico ($21) has distinct sage, thyme, and anise spice to complement the apple and stone fruit of this wine.

For example, Italian wines can have a pleasant herbaceousness or anise spice. Pinot Noir that spends time in French oak imparts a range of baking spices like cinnamon and cloves. Pinot Gris has some body and texture to help stand up to the rich foods, as well as a floral quality. Riesling's strong aromatics and inherent fruity/floral quality makes it versatile enough to play with all parts of the meal. Beaujolais wines are berry-scented and versatile with plenty of acidity to make your mouth water. I mean, even the candy-like Beaujolais Nouveau (which the wine academic types sneer at) is perfect for just staying lubricated during marathon eating sessions. Of course, the easiest fallback option is to grab some sparkling wine, which I acknowledge is "cheating" when it comes to pairing, but what's a feast without bubbles?

Additionally, if you are looking to try something different, look to Sherry or Saké. Dry Sherry has nutty and savory characteristics and is the magic potion for dealing with difficult-to-pair foods like nuts, olives, and green foods. Light and dry Saké does very well with salty snacks and appetizers. For more details on exploring this route, you should go visit my friend The Passionate Foodie, who has great ideas on how to approach these two wine styles with Thanksgiving dinner.

So let's get to some recommendations! These are all well-made wines from producers who I respect. I hope you seek some of these out and give them a try.

Domaine de la Prebende Beaujolais ($15): Fermented in both stainless steel and concrete tanks, this is a fruity red wine that will give you the versatility you need, with that touch of sweet spice that makes this wine feel like fall in a glass.

Willamette Valley Vineyards "Whole Cluster" Pinot Noir ($24): This is a wine that gives you the fruitiness of a Beaujolais wine plus a range of earthy spice and coffee that Oregon Pinot Noir can provide. Willamette Valley Vineyards ferments whole bunches of grapes, using the carbonic maceration method that is popular in the Beaujolais region. A different expression of Pinot Noir that will do its duty at the dinner table.

Hillersden Marlborough Pinot Gris ($18): New Zealand has become overwhelmingly well-known for its distinct Sauvignon Blancs, but let's also get to know their other wines! Here is a copper-hued Pinot Gris from vines that reached optimal maturity for producing quality wine. Citrus and stone fruit flavors dominate, with brief "sur-lie" aging to round out the texture and counteract the acidity. Very clean and refreshing.

Charles Bove Touraine Sparkling Rosé ($19): You can always go with a Cava or a Prosecco for something simple and bubbly, but lets go with something pink. This is 70% Cabernet Franc, 30% Gamay...and 100% awesome. The combination of aromatics and fruit marries so well with the 18 months lees aging, giving you a sparkler that gives you a great feel for traditional method wines in the Loire Valley. Fresh, fruity, and bone-dry, this is one to enjoy all day long.

Conte Vistarino Sangue di Giuda Costiolo, ($19): Don't forget about dessert! Literally translating to "Blood of Judas," this sweet wine is a specialty of the Oltrepo Pavese region of Lombardy. This is a blend of Barbera, Croatina, and Uva Rara, all plentifully found in this growing zone of Italy. Think of this as a lighter Port wine, where the alcohol is far lower at around 7% abv. This is a very lively wine with plenty of acidity, bursting with berry fruit, finishing clean and without a sticky, cloying sensation. Give it a shot with an apple-cranberry or blueberry pie!

Ask Tony: What's The Deal With Asparagus And Wine?

In my best Jerry Seinfeld voice, "What's the deal with asparagus?"

Welcome to my newest segment: Ask Tony! You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Spring's arrival means the first bounty of green vegetables. While these don't make it to the forefront of a meal for some, certainly this is an important time for the vegetarian and vegan diners out there. Still...you should be having greens on the side with your meat dishes! Listen to your parents for once!

Asparagus: rough stuff if it comes in contact with the wrong wine. Proceed with caution!

So among the leafy harvest of kale, Swiss chard, collards, and salad greens also comes the distinct, stalky vegetable called asparagus. It's chemical composition is unique; there are things called "asparagusic acid," "asparagosides," "asparagine," and "asparenyol" involved. These are group of building blocks that make asparagus so asparagus-y. To boot, 60-80% of the asparagus-consuming American population notices quite the "aroma" that emerges when you need to use the potty. All of these asparagus-y chemical components become the bane of many a wine pairing enthusiast. One has to be careful when marrying wines to these spears of green goodness. The wrong choice leads to overly tart, metallic, and astringent flavors on your palate. It's a beyond unpleasant chemical reaction for your senses.

I know...it doesn't sound like there is a lot of upside to getting wine into the equation when asparagus is being served. However, there is always a way. It's not impossible to enjoy both. A really simple guideline is to go for fresh, fruity, unoaked white wines. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Finger Lakes or Alsace Riesling immediately come to mind. You can even go with a Grüner Veltliner, which has always been an equalizer when it comes to greens.

A Grenache-based rosé wine, such as those coming from Navarra (Spain) or from the Côtes du Rhône in France will give you fruitiness if you are not a fan of white wine. If you must have a red, it can be a tougher pairing; any tannins will create chaos. Mild, unoaked, low-tannin reds such as the Gamay-based wines of Beaujolais would be useful in this spot, but go simple. If you spend for the "cru" wines, some (such as those from Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly) have tannin in there; you might want to search for cru regions like Fleurie, which are lighter and gentler.

If all else fails, wrap a piece of prosciutto around a bundle of asparagus or cover asparagus with cheese. That will make life easy and you can just drink whatever you want!

Here are a few specific options for you. Try them for yourself and let me know what you think!

If you have questions you want answered, get in touch with me and maybe I will feature your question in another segment!

Silver Thread Finger Lakes Dry Riesling ($18)

Vibrant and peachy, this dry example from New York finishes clean and should help tame the green monster.

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc ($20)

Bursting with passionfruit, herbs and a hint of stony earthiness, the ripeness will work wonders with asparagus.

Vega Sindoa Navarra Garnacha Rosado ($11)

Not having any part of white wine? This simple pink wine gives you lots of strawberry and spiced flavors at a terrific bargain.

Chateau de Pizay Beaujolais ($15)

A producer who has been a longtime favorite at the store, this is straightforward raspberry and baking spice that will satisfy the red wine fan.