Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Gewürztraminer

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

Sometimes, you need an excuse to step outside of your comfort zone. Internally, you might recognize that you need to branch out and be more adventurous in your drinking. However, it can be difficult to choose a direction, particularly if you are not familiar with some of the grape varieties available to you.

So today, I unveil the "Fun To Say, Fun To Drink" feature for you. Need a run-down of a wine grape that you might have seen on a shelf, but you were hesitant to spend the money on it? I have you covered, and the debut involves the distinct and unusual grape called Gewürztraminer.

Umm...how do you say that, and what is it?

Gewürztraminer (guh-VERTZ-trah-meen-er) is an aromatic white grape variety which, despite having a German name, has its roots in Alsace, France. If you read your history books, you will remember that this eastern section of France was fought over for many centuries, changing hands from French to German rule a number of times until the end of World War II. It's cool, yet sunny climate lets Gewürztraminer and other aromatic varieties thrive. Despite being considered a white grape, Gewürztraminer has a pink/red color to its skins. Because of that, the wines end up having a coppery hue to them.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

So what does Gewürztraminer smell and taste like?

Gewürztraminer is loaded with tropical and exotic fruit, perfume, flowers, and spices; these wild flavors and aromas make sense when we find out that "Gewürztraminer" translates to "spiced traminer", where "traminer" is an ancient family of aromatic varieties that made its home in northeastern Italy's Tyrol region (near the Austrian border). When I went to school at the International Wine Center and studied the Alsace region, our instructor for the session claimed Gewürztraminer to be a "banker" grape; it's aromas are so distinct that if I encountered it on an exam, I could easily identify it and "take it to the bank" that I would be right. Guess what? So can you.

Is all Gewürztraminer the same?

Not at all. Gewürztraminer has the tendency to get high in alcohol and low in acidity, so it can have a flabby, oily texture if the grapes ripen too quickly. Underripe Gewürztraminer can be very light in flavor; I would describe that sensation of drinking rosewater or green tea. There is a wide range of expressions in between those extremes, and vineyard site selection is critical in getting the most out of this grape. Aside from Alsace, you can find Gewürztraminer from northeastern Italy, Germany, Oregon, Washington State's Columbia Valley, the Finger Lakes of New York, and even South Africa. Examples can also finish fruity (with a pleasant bitter edge), dry, or sweet (in the case of "Late Harvest" examples that turn to raisins on the vine).

So what do you have for me and what am I eating with them?

I am glad you asked! By the way, due to Gewürztraminer's fussiness and difficulty to deal with in the vineyards and winery, it is not a cheap wine. That being said, I have some reasonably-priced examples that you should be able to find at your local wine shop or beverage depot.

Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Gewürztraminer ($18)

Floral, citrusy, and gingery, this zesty example from Oregon's Montinore Estate will work great with a range of Thai or Indian dishes. A great way to get yourself familiar with Gewürztraminer for under $20.

Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Gewürztraminer ($25)

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this Italian example is very lively and aromatic, but lush on the palate. It's full-bodied texture makes this great with a plate of sausages or a pasta with ground sausage, cream, and basil. The honeyed mango flavors would make this work with duck, too.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer ($25)

Pierre Sparr traces its history back to the year 1680. Anise, apricots, and dried peaches show in this wine, along with a touch of residual sweetness. If you are familiar with the lychee fruit, you might detect that here, too. I would go with bacon-wrapped scallop with this one.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg ($40)

Pierre Sparr's Mambourg vineyard is dominated by Gewürztraminer vines, which have an average age of 40 years, leading to intense, concentrated wines. This wine is rich and full-bodied with a spectrum of dried tropical fruits, honey, and spice. If you are living it up this would be a great match with foie gras. 

Wine: This Time, It's Personal

Replace all of the equations on the board with things like "Frank Brickowski wore #40 for the Milwaukee Bucks," "I was at a party with coworkers when the Packers won Super Bowl XXXI." and "Rondinella is one of the grapes that makes Amarone wine…

Replace all of the equations on the board with things like "Frank Brickowski wore #40 for the Milwaukee Bucks," "I was at a party with coworkers when the Packers won Super Bowl XXXI." and "Rondinella is one of the grapes that makes Amarone wines." That's basically who I am.

I am not one to brag (and this is probably less brag-worthy and more embarrassing), but I can visualize and remember what I have drank over the years. You show me a label, 99% of the time I can tell you whether I have tasted it or not. I don't need an app to do this. I just have my little brain and a few years of backed up pictures on my phone to remind of things I have sampled.

I have done this with other things, too. I can remember where I was for every NFL title game since Super Bowl XX. As a kid, I could store license plate numbers into my brain and connect them to people in my neighborhood. I could remember uniform numbers of basketball, football, and baseball players. This is probably some sort of illness I should have had checked out by a doctor a long time ago, but this is how my mental filing cabinet operates; this way of thinking likely helped me succeed in wine and spirits school.

My wine-drinking experiences are not wretched like the final installment of the Jaws series, but they are personal. Yours should be, too.

My wine-drinking experiences are not wretched like the final installment of the Jaws series, but they are personal. Yours should be, too.

What this all comes down to is making connections to life experiences. I am hoping that most of your drinking adventures are positive. Maybe you drank a macrobrew for the first time with high school or college friends, so it holds a special place in your soul. Perhaps you ordered a bottle of wine on a first date with someone you went on to marry, and you will always remember that evening and the wine you drank with your meal. Or you went on vacation and had a killer margarita and you are spending your life trying to recreate it since it was so good!

Let's also be honest on the other side of the coin. Maybe you had a bad experience with vodka and can't touch the stuff again. Or you tasted a wine from a part of the world that just wasn't your thing and you avoid it at all costs. Unfortunately, negativity can rear its ugly head as you explore booze of the world.

Being an optimist and a professional, I build off of my good experiences and try to correct the bad ones. I have had the pleasure of drinking red wine out of jelly jars at a picnic table in a back alley outside of a restaurant in Venice. I didn't know what was in the glass, and I didn't care. I also did a tour at Castello Banfi in Tuscany and took part in a five-course wine lunch before walking through vineyards. This was as equally rewarding as drinking mystery juice up north. As for the rough experiences, well...I got over a Captain Morgan incident and learned to appreciate a wide range of rums from all over the world. The Dark and Stormy is now a summertime staple of a cocktail at Castello d'Ambrosini. Still, there is something about wine that makes me feel good. I find it to be the best combination of socialization and relaxation of all the adult beverages. Your opinion might differ and that's fine, but I have never seen anyone unhappy with a glass of wine in his or her hand. 

This Saturday will mark eleven years that I have been married to The Most Awesome Woman In The World. We have shared many great journeys involving gastronomy and delicious adult beverages together. While a beer, a cocktail, or a sip of Cognac has been something we could do independently, there is nothing like sharing a bottle of wine with one another. Today, I give you six bottles that have had a great personal impact on us; we will gladly reach for these wines when we see them again. Whether it is a general style or a specific wine, these have made lasting impressions based on our personal experiences. I hope they become a part of your positive drinking experiences, too, while you make your own personal connections.

King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris ($17): For a longtime, one of my Twitter people had championed this wine as being consistently delicious and versatile with a lot of different foods. When I bought this for the first time and brought it home, we were a very happy couple. Loaded with limes, necatarines, and tropical fruits and a zesty finish., this will always be welcome in the wine fridge. 

Sokol Blosser Evolution Oregon White Blend ($18): When we went to Disney World and I went down to the bar at the Pacific Northwest-themed Wilderness Lodge after a long day in the parks, I brought two glasses of this back to our room. A very interesting "wine stew" of nine different grape varieties with intense aromatics, lush texture, and whirlwind of flavor. You taste something different with each sip.

jolivet sancerre.jpg

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($18): I never tasted Sancerre before meeting my wife. Sancerre is a village located in the eastern Loire Valley of France, known for steely, mouth-watering Sauvignon Blanc. The example from Jolivet shows grapefruit, fresh cut grass, and wet stone flavors. Our preferred point of origin for Sauvignon Blanc more than anywhere else in the world, and my first "wow" white wine.

Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence Rosé ($24): We honeymooned in the south of France and Provence was one of those locations. Sipping rosé with fresh fish caught that morning at a restaurant on the beach was unbelievable. The watermelon, thyme, and saline flavors of the Whispering Angel take me back to those days we spent in Provence.

E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($45): When we were in France, we took a day trip to Avignon. At that time, I didn't realize how close we were to the great vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, because wine was not my specialty at the time! At least I know I can bring Avignon home in some capacity with Guigal's example. Red and black berries, lush texture, and hints of lavender exemplify what Châteauneuf-du-Pape is all about.

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino (2006 vintage, $60): We were married in 2006, and Brunello will always be special to us (my first "wow" red wine. It's the long-lived wine of Tuscany, which we experienced plenty of in our Italy trip. Sour cherries, earth, and leather are pronounced in this wine. Despite being over 10 years old, the wine is still very lively and fresh. This could keep developing in the bottle for another five years easily, and at this price it's a bargain! 

Play Along At Home: Northwestern Wine

On Monday, you learned of the debut of a food and wine series happening at the Flanders Fish Market & Restaurant. This week, The Boss and I worked hard (as you can see in the picture) to find the right wines from Oregon and Washington for the theme of "Clean Eating," and our 31 guests were very pleased!

A shot of the tasting lab. We worked very hard for you this week.

A shot of the tasting lab. We worked very hard for you this week.

It's funny...we tend to lump Oregon and Washington together as if they were the same state with the same geographical features, particularly because we tie the city of Seattle's identity to Washington state. However from a wine perspective, these parts of the country couldn't be more different.

The bulk of the wine production in Oregon comes from the Willamette Valley, where Pinot Noir is king and Pinot Gris is the top white grape variety. The climate is milder with more yearly rainfall than Washington's major regions (dominated by the Columbia Valley), so the conditions favor those grapes, plus the aromatic varieties like Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling. Killer sparkling wine is made here, too. Only when you head to the far south (like Rogue Valley) or northeastern corner of Oregon (Columbia Gorge) do you find drier, warmer conditions that suit other (mostly red) grape varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and even regional varieties like Grenache and Tempranillo.

Oregon Wine Region map courtesy of Oregon Wine. Most of the wine produced in Oregon comes from the Willamette Valley, which is in close proximity to Portland (in the yellow area).

Oregon Wine Region map courtesy of Oregon Wine. Most of the wine produced in Oregon comes from the Willamette Valley, which is in close proximity to Portland (in the yellow area).

Most of Washington's wine regions are semi-arid with long sunny days during the growing season with very little rainfall. With more uniform soils and higher elevations, there are major day-night temperature swings that allow grapes to ripen during the day and rest at night. Washington has the whole palette at its disposal with Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc) and Syrah tend to rule, but wines made from Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay come through bright and fruity. You even find wines made from Semillon, Nebbiolo, and Blaufrankisch (an Austrian red variety) which also carries the not-so-marketable synonym "Lemberger." It's too wet and cool in the Willamette Valley for many of these grapes to ripen successfully.

Washington Wine Region map courtesy of Washington State Wine. 98% of wine made in Washington is made east of the Cascade Mountains, several hours drive from Seattle (the red dot in the light green area)

Washington Wine Region map courtesy of Washington State Wine. 98% of wine made in Washington is made east of the Cascade Mountains, several hours drive from Seattle (the red dot in the light green area)

Yet with these differences, Oregon and Washington are outstanding New World wines that pair well with both the fresh and roasted foods that were featured at Flanders Fish last night, thanks to the acidity retained in the grapes during ripening.

So as promised, I am providing you with the "home game" that you can play. Now, we don't have the recipes for the food, but you can work off of the menu provided by the restaurant and test the pairings for yourself. Or you can just drink five different wines (all of which range from $15-$17 with friends and be happy. After all...it's Friday! Celebrate the end of the first full week of 2017.

Welcome/Aperitif:

Waterbrook Melange Founder's White Blend, Columbia Valley, $14.99

First course:

Cajun roasted corn and cauliflower salad with arugula, dried cranberries, pine nuts, lime vinaigrette

Adelsheim Vineyards Rose of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $16.99

Second course:

Seared tuna with marinated sliced cucumbers

Pappas Wine Co. Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, $15.99

Third course:

Black shrimp jicama taco, cilantro, pico de gallo, avocado puree

Steele Wines Shooting Star "Blue Franc" (Blaufranksich), Washington, $15.99

Fourth course:

Peppered roasted chicken with greek yogurt dipping sauce

Pacific Pinot Cellars Pinot Noir, Oregon, $14.99

Local News: Food & Wine Series Debuts This Week

Has everyone dug out of their snowy caves yet? Good; it means that if you live in (or will be in) Southeastern Connecticut, you can come visit a terrific local restaurant who is partnering up with my store to do a food and wine series!

The owner of Divine Wine himself, Certified Specialist of Wine Ken Turcotte, is teaming up with Chef Olivia Formica of Flanders Fish Market & Restaurant to present five wines and four small plates. This is happening on four consecutive Thursday nights, beginning January 12th, 6:30-8:00pm. The theme for this week is "Eating Clean," and the featured wines will come from Oregon and Washington...a great way to keep the momentum going with your resolution to eat healthy this year. Successive events will include wines from Italy on January 19th, and wines of Spain and France on January 26th and February 2nd.

Whether you choose to come to one event or all four, you can make your reservations by calling the Divine Wine Emporium: (860) 691-1053. It's a fantastic and easy way to explore wines of the world and potentially introduce your palate to something you haven't discovered before. If you aren't going to be around, I will recap the wine for you on Friday's post and you can play along at home.