Tired Of The Heat? Turn To The Old World For Help

The dog days of summer have officially arrived. Independence Day is long in the rearview mirror, and it has been friggin’ hot outside ever since. Fortunately when we want to avoid crowds at the beach, the kiddie pool and the sprinkler have come in quite handy. The afternoon popsicle or Boston Cream Donut Klondike Bar hasn’t been too shabby of an option either. As for a glass of wine? Put those heavy, high-alcohol reds and rich, oaky whites away and join me on the side of Old World refreshment.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

These sweltering days call out for some good old-fashioned acidity, a critical component of wine but it is also the aspect of lemonade or unsweetened iced tea that livens up your palate and gets your mouth watering (also a good thing in the heat so you get something to eat to keep your energy up).

We also need something unoaked, so all of the fruitiness and acidity stands out. Wines aged in oak are round, textured, and pleasant to enjoy most times, but they will tire out your palate real fast since the acidity tends to be muted or in some cases non-existent.

Low alcohol also helps here, too. We don’t want a high-abv wine (basically, anything 14.0% and up) to dehydrate us. Additionally, higher alcohol wines, in general, tend to be lower in acidity. Old World wines from Europe skew in the direction we are looking for. The growing season is typically shorter than New World regions with many cooling influences to preserve acidity and keep potential alcohol levels lower, but the Old World gives you plenty of vibrant flavors and aromas to keep your senses interested while being boiled in the dead of summer..

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The following flight is Tony-tested, Tony-approved. If you don’t see any of the producers, look for wines from these regions or made from these grape varieties as acceptable substitutes. Of course, you can also get in touch with specific questions. My office is always open. So get a good chill on these and go to town!

Les Vignerons de Florensac Picpoul de Pinet ($13): Picpoul is the grape you never knew you needed until you try it. Despite over 300 sunny days per year in Southern France, this white grape not only thrives, but it displays an incredible amount of zest with a full citrus bowl of fruit and hint of fresh herbs on the nose. On the palate, there is a minerally quality to it and a long, lemony finish. It’s a terrific alternative to both Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc that also pairs well with delicate white fish.

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Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino Vendemmia 30 ($16): Even on the warm island of Sardinia, the white grape Vermentino has adapted to the harsh climate beautifully. Vermentino has great texture, but it is balanced by a streak of natural acidity that comes from Mediterranean island viticulture. This wine has a great combination of lemon, peach, and tropical fruits with a saline character on the finish. This is the 30th vintage of the Costamolino, and Argiolas keeps knocking it out of the park with this wine. Perfect partner with shellfish and makes for an interesting alternate to unoaked Chardonnay.

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90+ Cellars Cotes de Provence Rosé ($12): A classic blend of southern French red grapes Grenache and Cinsault, both of which give fruity wines with plenty of acidity and a delicate color since neither grape has particularly thick skins. When these red grapes are used to make a rosé, there is a fun crossover of white wine flavors (grapefruit, nectarine) and red wine flavors (strawberry, watermelon). Throw in a slightly herbaceous nose and salty palate, and you have a steal on your hands while getting a good foundation of what Provence Rosé is all about..

127 Days of Food and Beverage, In Pictures

For the past 127 life-altering days, the main goal around here has simply been to keep everyone’s physical and mental health as strong as it can be. As any of you can attest to daily it isn’t easy to deal with, but hopefully we can all find some pockets of time to be able to sit back and appreciate what we have. During these times of quarantine/lockdown/social distancing, I have always been able to count on Friday Pizza & Movie Night, takeout dinners to support a local restaurant once per week, and the Sunday Cocktail & Appetizers right here at home. Of course, there is the occasional Thursday Happy Hour on our deck with oversized chess, checkers, and “four-in-a-row,” or even the Tuesday night where I decide, “screw it…I’m getting a beer.”

Seeing as I haven’t shared anything with you all in a while, I figured now is as good a time as any to do so. I have taken some of my favorite moments of food and beverage experiences over the last 3+ months to help you get caught up. Think of it as a “Best Of” mini-guide to help you the next time you are looking to cook something up or pick up something new at your local liquor mart.

Drink from the fire hose, and feel free to share what you have tried since March…I’d love to hear about it! In the meantime, hang in there and be good to one another.

In Praise Of White Zinfandel

This past Saturday, I was working at the Divine Wine Emporium, leading an afternoon tasting out on the deck. After a week loaded with cool, gray, rainy days that made me want to reach for some Scotch, it was great to have a breezy, sunny day. Even better, it was great to have a gathering outside and get exploring some wines that are ideal for summer.

A decidedly American creation. Image credit: Sutter Home Winery

A decidedly American creation. Image credit: Sutter Home Winery

While we sampled a killer rosé from Chile and another from Oregon, and discussing how they compare to the pink wines of Provence, I overheard a common side conversation referring to drinking in days of yore that would go something like this:

"Remember when we used to drink White Zinfandel??"

"Oh my goodness, we used to get huge bottles of that stuff."

"You mean the sweet pink wine that comes in a box? I remember drinking that, too!"

Well, how about you? Do you remember/currently know White Zinfandel? Yes, it is a pink wine (often referred to as a "blush" rather than a rosé) with some residual sugar left behind. When White Zinfandel was produced for the first time, it was a style created by accident. Bob Trinchero of the Sutter Home Winery wanted to make his red Zinfandel (Zinfandel is indeed a red grape variety) wines stronger and more intense; Zinfandel was a grape variety in danger of being ripped out for something more commercially viable if he couldn't make the wines work. Trinchero drained some of the juice away from the skins the fermenting tank, leading to a higher ratio of skins to juice. With more of the juice touching the skins, more color, flavor, and tannin could be extracted and achieve Trinchero's desired result. The drained juice had a pink color from brief skin contact, and since Trinchero was a fan of dry French rosé, he figured this would be his interpretation of what he enjoyed so much.

Then one day in 1975, Trinchero's fermentation was "stuck," meaning the yeasts never finished converting all of the grape sugars in the juice to alcohol. So...he bottled the wine anyway, complete with residual sugar left behind and he labeled it "White Zinfandel."

Next thing you know, Sutter Home's White Zinfandel took off. Americans had a major sweet tooth back then, and this fruity-sweet wine was just what the consumer was looking for. Sales skyrocketed from 25,000 cases in 1981 to 4.5 million in 1987. Over time, the American consumer was given greater access to more styles of wines. The trend has gone toward drier, more food-friendly wines, but that hasn't prevented Sutter Home from continuing to ship north of four million cases of White Zinfandel annually.

Would you like to know a little secret? Sutter Home White Zinfandel is the first wine I ever drank. I will also bet that it was one of your first tastes of wine, too. Inexpensive and easy to knock back in your youth, it was a change of pace from cheap beer or cheap rum/vodka/whiskey/spirit of choice...for when we wanted to appear sophisticated! Pack it with a picnic lunch and you were ready to go.

Gnarled old Zinfandel vines. Image credit: Lodi Winegrape Commission

Gnarled old Zinfandel vines. Image credit: Lodi Winegrape Commission

A by-product of White Zinfandel's success was the rescuing of decades-old Zinfandel vines from being replaced. These vines don't produce a lot of fruit, but the grapes that show up are concentrated, intense, and loaded with character. In fact, consumers became curious about what a red wine made from Zinfandel tasted like. Red Zinfandel's plush texture and "fruit bomb" nature makes it a great partner for your barbecued meats.

Additionally, there are now some California wineries making dry rosé wines from Zinfandel grapes but labeling it as "White Zinfandel." The wineries are savvy...they know the name "White Zinfandel" has become a recognizable brand, but some effort has to go into conveying that the current style is one that is not sweetened by residual sugar. It's all part of making sure you are well-informed and know what to expect when you open your bottle.

White Zinfandel is a style that was the gateway wine for many a newbie and the bane of many a connoisseur. With the long Memorial Day weekend heading to the rearview mirror, it only makes sense to raise a glass to this uniquely American creation. There are not a lot of wineries making a "White Zinfandel," and those that do actually don't keep it on their shelves for long...the wines are in demand! So I have just two for you to compare side-by-side, and yes wine geeks...I am writing a tasting note for the Sutter Home wine!

Sutter Home White Zinfandel (less than $10): Depending on your market and local beverage depot's buying power, you might find this for as low as $7.99. Watermelon Jolly Ranchers, strawberry Starbursts, and cantaloupe flavors meant to be a casual picnic wine or as a match for spicy pan-Asian cuisine. Terrific choice for making a homemade Sangria.

Image credit: Broc Cellars

Image credit: Broc Cellars

Broc Cellars Sonoma County White Zinfandel ($25): Made in small quantities, this is a peppery wine with fresh strawberry and watermelon flavors. According to Broc's web site, it sells out very quickly. If you can get your hands on it, it is a great way to get acquainted with the new take on White Zinfandel.