Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Nerello Mascalese

As I have finally got into a better habit of posting more here this summer, a lot of topics I cover have to do with beating the heat. We have talked of white and rosé wines, white spirits, aged spirits with tropical flavors, margaritas...all "seasonally appropriate" drinks, right?

Well, guess what? There is a group of you that likes none of these things! There is a chance I have not been as inclusive as I should be, and as much as I tend to be a "seasonal" drinker it is also good to change things up. Keep things fresh and exciting. Go contrarian every so often. That's why today we change it up by discussing a unique native Italian red grape variety that rolls off the tongue the way Otto (Kevin Kline, pictured above) spoke nonsensical Italian in A Fish Called Wanda: Nerello Mascalese [nuh-RELL-oh mahs-cah-LAY-zay].

That's a mouthful of a grape, isn't it? In more ways than one. Not only is it a lot to say, but a lot to get your senses around, too. The first thing to mention about Nerello Mascalese is that it only grows on the southern island of Sicily, and more specific in the region known as Etna. Yes, it in fact takes its name from the active volcano of Mount Etna. All of the vineyards wrap around the southern and eastern base of the volcano, allowing maximum exposure to the Mediterranean sunshine. However, to prevent scorching the grapes, vineyards are situated at higher altitude to offer a cooling effect, particularly at night, which allows the grapes to preserve natural acidity.

Nerello Mascalese makes a rather "manly" wine...meaty and maybe even a little sweaty.

The resulting red wines made from Nerello Mascalese are powerful, bold, and smoky. Red berry fruits are present, but there's also accompanying tobacco and black licorice character. There is also a chewy, dense, meaty quality, almost beef jerky-like, that makes you think the wine has evolved in the bottle quickly, but it is just the complex nature of the grape. Nerello Mascalese makes up a minimum of 80% of any wine labeled "Etna Rosso" with the remainder typically its sister variety Nerello Capuccio (a grape that gives deeply-colored and full-bodied wines).

Nerello Mascalese is definitely not for pairing with fish. Especially goldfish. Image credit: IMDB.com

Etna Rosso wines are not for delicacy; this is the opposite end of the spectrum from the subject matter we have covered lately. However, if you are charcoal-grilling or smoking some red meat with Italian herbs...Nerello Mascalese will stand up to it easily.

I will admit, the wines are not cheap; the grapes simply require Sicily's climate to properly ripen grapes. You actually don't want to go too cheap, or the wine will taste very astringent and even bitter. You will easily start at $20 to get introduced to these wines, but if bold, tannic, and meaty is your style it will be worth it.

I have previously discussed a rosé that gives you all of the fruit and none of the overt savoriness, and it will get you there for just $12 or $13, thanks to minimal handling to help keep the costs down. However, here are two red wines to seek based on Nerello Mascalese that are worth your time.

Calabretta Vigne Vecchie ($25). The vines are anywhere from 60-80 years; vines of that age give very dense and concentrated fruit. The wine spends over three years in neutral casks to help round the wine out. Because of the high-octane nature of this wine, it further spends time in Calabretta's cellars after bottling to allow all of the structure and fruit to harmonize. Packed with berries and cured meat, you might even notice a hint of tar (which sounds crazy, but trust me here). This is a very traditional expression of Nerello Mascalese.

Calcagno Etna Rosso Arcuria ($29). For a more modern take on Nerello Mascalese, try this expression from Calcagno. This wine spends 18 months in French oak barrels, imparting a wide range of baking spices (cloves, nutmeg) while still retaining raspberry and cherry fruit flavors.

P.S. I do hope you have seen A Fish Called Wanda...Kevin Kline's portrayal of Otto is the funniest non-lead character in cinema history, and I will fight you about it.

Ring Around The Rosé

A couple of weeks ago, the Divine Wine Emporium hosted a huge rosé event outside on the deck. In a little New England shore town, we welcomed quite the crowd as we opened eighteen bottles from wineries located all over the globe. I was lucky enough to have a table of my own, where I poured five rosés and it was a great time. There is nothing better than showing somebody something new.

We had our attendees score the wines they tried on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being outstanding and 1 being, well...pour-down-the-drain-worthy. Recently, we were able to compile all the data and now I have some winners to share with you. The top five rosé wines are listed below (along with an honorable mention). If you have not been jumping into rosé wines, you now have no excuse. Without further ado, here they are, all priced between $13 and $19.

Survey says...Drink Rosé

Honorable mention: Hillersden New Zealand Rosé

This did not get enough votes as not enough people had the chance to try this, but those that did gave it high marks, and deservedly so. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, Hillersden's example shows flavors and aromas that I can only describe as a berry salad with orange zest shaved on top. This may not be available in all markets, but if you can find it, snap it up.

Words to live by from Charles Smith, Winemaker

5) Charles & Charles Washington Rosé

This is a wine stew (a term coined by my father any time more than four grapes are in a blend) of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre (popular for structure in red wines), Cinsault (adds fruitiness and acidity to Rhône blends), and Counoise (a peppery variety that appears in the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The result is a fruity, refreshing, and complex wine with candied citrus and strawberry the primary flavors. 

4) Gérard Bertrand Cote des Roses (Languedoc, France)

A fancy-shaped bottle with a rose etched on the bottom, the wine inside is legit. Bertrand makes a complete range of wines from the everyday to the cellar-worthy, all acting as a great way to introduce yourself to the Old World if you are traditionally a California/New World wine fan. Classic strawberry, watermelon, and a hint of grapefruit gives a mouthwatering sensation on the finish of this Rosé.

3) La Belle en Rosé Sancerre (Loire Valley, France)

This is actually a label from the 90+ Cellars family of wines. In the region of Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc is dominant, but when it comes to reds and rosés, it is Pinot Noir that shines. Coming from a cool climate in the Loire Valley, the flavors become more citrusy (think ruby red grapefruit here) than berrylike, and a minerally, almost smoky character. Finding a Sancerre Rosé for under $20 can be a challenge, so the La Belle is a fantastic way to be introduced to the style.

The reds from Nerello Mascalese can be incredibly powerful, smoky, earthy, and savory. As a Rosé, it's a completely different experience.

2) Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Le Rosé (Sicily, Italy)

This has become a new favorite at Divine Wine; even before the event it sells out regularly. A Sicilian Rosé made from the local Nerello Mascalese grape, this is very full-bodied and fruity with cherry and raspberry dominating the palate, accompanied by some sweet spices like anise. This is an all-seasons rosé.

1) Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence (Provence, France)

This wine has been a classic at Divine Wine; it has been at the store longer than I have been here in Connecticut as it consistently delivers on a great combination of delicacy, fruit, acidity, complexity, and long-lasting finish. Whether it is herbed shellfish, tomato-based salads, or a warm summer day on the deck, it does not matter...Houchart is a crowd-pleaser.