Tired Of The Heat? Turn To The Old World For Help

The dog days of summer have officially arrived. Independence Day is long in the rearview mirror, and it has been friggin’ hot outside ever since. Fortunately when we want to avoid crowds at the beach, the kiddie pool and the sprinkler have come in quite handy. The afternoon popsicle or Boston Cream Donut Klondike Bar hasn’t been too shabby of an option either. As for a glass of wine? Put those heavy, high-alcohol reds and rich, oaky whites away and join me on the side of Old World refreshment.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

These sweltering days call out for some good old-fashioned acidity, a critical component of wine but it is also the aspect of lemonade or unsweetened iced tea that livens up your palate and gets your mouth watering (also a good thing in the heat so you get something to eat to keep your energy up).

We also need something unoaked, so all of the fruitiness and acidity stands out. Wines aged in oak are round, textured, and pleasant to enjoy most times, but they will tire out your palate real fast since the acidity tends to be muted or in some cases non-existent.

Low alcohol also helps here, too. We don’t want a high-abv wine (basically, anything 14.0% and up) to dehydrate us. Additionally, higher alcohol wines, in general, tend to be lower in acidity. Old World wines from Europe skew in the direction we are looking for. The growing season is typically shorter than New World regions with many cooling influences to preserve acidity and keep potential alcohol levels lower, but the Old World gives you plenty of vibrant flavors and aromas to keep your senses interested while being boiled in the dead of summer..

The following flight is Tony-tested, Tony-approved. If you don’t see any of the producers, look for wines from these regions or made from these grape varieties as acceptable substitutes. Of course, you can also get in touch with specific questions. My office is always open. So get a good chill on these and go to town!

Les Vignerons de Florensac Picpoul de Pinet ($13): Picpoul is the grape you never knew you needed until you try it. Despite over 300 sunny days per year in Southern France, this white grape not only thrives, but it displays an incredible amount of zest with a full citrus bowl of fruit and hint of fresh herbs on the nose. On the palate, there is a minerally quality to it and a long, lemony finish. It’s a terrific alternative to both Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc that also pairs well with delicate white fish.

Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino Vendemmia 30 ($16): Even on the warm island of Sardinia, the white grape Vermentino has adapted to the harsh climate beautifully. Vermentino has great texture, but it is balanced by a streak of natural acidity that comes from Mediterranean island viticulture. This wine has a great combination of lemon, peach, and tropical fruits with a saline character on the finish. This is the 30th vintage of the Costamolino, and Argiolas keeps knocking it out of the park with this wine. Perfect partner with shellfish and makes for an interesting alternate to unoaked Chardonnay.

90+ Cellars Cotes de Provence Rosé ($12): A classic blend of southern French red grapes Grenache and Cinsault, both of which give fruity wines with plenty of acidity and a delicate color since neither grape has particularly thick skins. When these red grapes are used to make a rosé, there is a fun crossover of white wine flavors (grapefruit, nectarine) and red wine flavors (strawberry, watermelon). Throw in a slightly herbaceous nose and salty palate, and you have a steal on your hands while getting a good foundation of what Provence Rosé is all about..

Ring Around The Rosé

A couple of weeks ago, the Divine Wine Emporium hosted a huge rosé event outside on the deck. In a little New England shore town, we welcomed quite the crowd as we opened eighteen bottles from wineries located all over the globe. I was lucky enough to have a table of my own, where I poured five rosés and it was a great time. There is nothing better than showing somebody something new.

We had our attendees score the wines they tried on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being outstanding and 1 being, well...pour-down-the-drain-worthy. Recently, we were able to compile all the data and now I have some winners to share with you. The top five rosé wines are listed below (along with an honorable mention). If you have not been jumping into rosé wines, you now have no excuse. Without further ado, here they are, all priced between $13 and $19.

Survey says...Drink Rosé

Honorable mention: Hillersden New Zealand Rosé

This did not get enough votes as not enough people had the chance to try this, but those that did gave it high marks, and deservedly so. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, Hillersden's example shows flavors and aromas that I can only describe as a berry salad with orange zest shaved on top. This may not be available in all markets, but if you can find it, snap it up.

Words to live by from Charles Smith, Winemaker

5) Charles & Charles Washington Rosé

This is a wine stew (a term coined by my father any time more than four grapes are in a blend) of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre (popular for structure in red wines), Cinsault (adds fruitiness and acidity to Rhône blends), and Counoise (a peppery variety that appears in the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The result is a fruity, refreshing, and complex wine with candied citrus and strawberry the primary flavors. 

4) Gérard Bertrand Cote des Roses (Languedoc, France)

A fancy-shaped bottle with a rose etched on the bottom, the wine inside is legit. Bertrand makes a complete range of wines from the everyday to the cellar-worthy, all acting as a great way to introduce yourself to the Old World if you are traditionally a California/New World wine fan. Classic strawberry, watermelon, and a hint of grapefruit gives a mouthwatering sensation on the finish of this Rosé.

3) La Belle en Rosé Sancerre (Loire Valley, France)

This is actually a label from the 90+ Cellars family of wines. In the region of Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc is dominant, but when it comes to reds and rosés, it is Pinot Noir that shines. Coming from a cool climate in the Loire Valley, the flavors become more citrusy (think ruby red grapefruit here) than berrylike, and a minerally, almost smoky character. Finding a Sancerre Rosé for under $20 can be a challenge, so the La Belle is a fantastic way to be introduced to the style.

The reds from Nerello Mascalese can be incredibly powerful, smoky, earthy, and savory. As a Rosé, it's a completely different experience.

2) Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Le Rosé (Sicily, Italy)

This has become a new favorite at Divine Wine; even before the event it sells out regularly. A Sicilian Rosé made from the local Nerello Mascalese grape, this is very full-bodied and fruity with cherry and raspberry dominating the palate, accompanied by some sweet spices like anise. This is an all-seasons rosé.

1) Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence (Provence, France)

This wine has been a classic at Divine Wine; it has been at the store longer than I have been here in Connecticut as it consistently delivers on a great combination of delicacy, fruit, acidity, complexity, and long-lasting finish. Whether it is herbed shellfish, tomato-based salads, or a warm summer day on the deck, it does not matter...Houchart is a crowd-pleaser.

Wine: This Time, It's Personal

Replace all of the equations on the board with things like "Frank Brickowski wore #40 for the Milwaukee Bucks," "I was at a party with coworkers when the Packers won Super Bowl XXXI." and "Rondinella is one of the grapes that makes Amarone wines." That's basically who I am.

I am not one to brag (and this is probably less brag-worthy and more embarrassing), but I can visualize and remember what I have drank over the years. You show me a label, 99% of the time I can tell you whether I have tasted it or not. I don't need an app to do this. I just have my little brain and a few years of backed up pictures on my phone to remind of things I have sampled.

I have done this with other things, too. I can remember where I was for every NFL title game since Super Bowl XX. As a kid, I could store license plate numbers into my brain and connect them to people in my neighborhood. I could remember uniform numbers of basketball, football, and baseball players. This is probably some sort of illness I should have had checked out by a doctor a long time ago, but this is how my mental filing cabinet operates; this way of thinking likely helped me succeed in wine and spirits school.

My wine-drinking experiences are not wretched like the final installment of the Jaws series, but they are personal. Yours should be, too.

What this all comes down to is making connections to life experiences. I am hoping that most of your drinking adventures are positive. Maybe you drank a macrobrew for the first time with high school or college friends, so it holds a special place in your soul. Perhaps you ordered a bottle of wine on a first date with someone you went on to marry, and you will always remember that evening and the wine you drank with your meal. Or you went on vacation and had a killer margarita and you are spending your life trying to recreate it since it was so good!

Let's also be honest on the other side of the coin. Maybe you had a bad experience with vodka and can't touch the stuff again. Or you tasted a wine from a part of the world that just wasn't your thing and you avoid it at all costs. Unfortunately, negativity can rear its ugly head as you explore booze of the world.

Being an optimist and a professional, I build off of my good experiences and try to correct the bad ones. I have had the pleasure of drinking red wine out of jelly jars at a picnic table in a back alley outside of a restaurant in Venice. I didn't know what was in the glass, and I didn't care. I also did a tour at Castello Banfi in Tuscany and took part in a five-course wine lunch before walking through vineyards. This was as equally rewarding as drinking mystery juice up north. As for the rough experiences, well...I got over a Captain Morgan incident and learned to appreciate a wide range of rums from all over the world. The Dark and Stormy is now a summertime staple of a cocktail at Castello d'Ambrosini. Still, there is something about wine that makes me feel good. I find it to be the best combination of socialization and relaxation of all the adult beverages. Your opinion might differ and that's fine, but I have never seen anyone unhappy with a glass of wine in his or her hand. 

This Saturday will mark eleven years that I have been married to The Most Awesome Woman In The World. We have shared many great journeys involving gastronomy and delicious adult beverages together. While a beer, a cocktail, or a sip of Cognac has been something we could do independently, there is nothing like sharing a bottle of wine with one another. Today, I give you six bottles that have had a great personal impact on us; we will gladly reach for these wines when we see them again. Whether it is a general style or a specific wine, these have made lasting impressions based on our personal experiences. I hope they become a part of your positive drinking experiences, too, while you make your own personal connections.

King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris ($17): For a longtime, one of my Twitter people had championed this wine as being consistently delicious and versatile with a lot of different foods. When I bought this for the first time and brought it home, we were a very happy couple. Loaded with limes, necatarines, and tropical fruits and a zesty finish., this will always be welcome in the wine fridge. 

Sokol Blosser Evolution Oregon White Blend ($18): When we went to Disney World and I went down to the bar at the Pacific Northwest-themed Wilderness Lodge after a long day in the parks, I brought two glasses of this back to our room. A very interesting "wine stew" of nine different grape varieties with intense aromatics, lush texture, and whirlwind of flavor. You taste something different with each sip.

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($18): I never tasted Sancerre before meeting my wife. Sancerre is a village located in the eastern Loire Valley of France, known for steely, mouth-watering Sauvignon Blanc. The example from Jolivet shows grapefruit, fresh cut grass, and wet stone flavors. Our preferred point of origin for Sauvignon Blanc more than anywhere else in the world, and my first "wow" white wine.

Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence Rosé ($24): We honeymooned in the south of France and Provence was one of those locations. Sipping rosé with fresh fish caught that morning at a restaurant on the beach was unbelievable. The watermelon, thyme, and saline flavors of the Whispering Angel take me back to those days we spent in Provence.

E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($45): When we were in France, we took a day trip to Avignon. At that time, I didn't realize how close we were to the great vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, because wine was not my specialty at the time! At least I know I can bring Avignon home in some capacity with Guigal's example. Red and black berries, lush texture, and hints of lavender exemplify what Châteauneuf-du-Pape is all about.

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino (2006 vintage, $60): We were married in 2006, and Brunello will always be special to us (my first "wow" red wine. It's the long-lived wine of Tuscany, which we experienced plenty of in our Italy trip. Sour cherries, earth, and leather are pronounced in this wine. Despite being over 10 years old, the wine is still very lively and fresh. This could keep developing in the bottle for another five years easily, and at this price it's a bargain! 

Tall Tales Of Boozery: Summer Is The Only Time For Rosé

A lot of myths are floating around out there, many of which are just trivial common misconceptions. They don't necessarily matter, but still these things are just untrue beliefs: bulls hate the color red (nope, they're color blind) and Napoleon is short (5'7" was above average height in France). Others can impact health: don't wake up a sleepwalker (no, don't let them unknowingly hurt themselves) and alcohol will "warm you up" (alcohol actually drops your core temperature). Even "Fake News" has somehow become a thing (and a rabbit hole that I am not going down here).

Then we have the inexplicable myths, and one in the adult beverage business in particular that gets to me: rosé wine is a "summer" wine. You might be saying, "Hey...aren't you the guy who just gave me whiskies to drink when the seasons change?" or "Didn't you just tell us Grüner Veltliner is a good wine for springtime?" Why dispel a myth about seasonal drinking?

Yes and yes, and I did just shamelessly redirect you to two of my other pages to remind you that I did refer to some of these items. You know what? I'm guilty as charged. I tend to fall into this seasonal pattern of drinking, but to be fair I never said it was the right way or the only way to drink.

By the way, I do understand the allure of these pink wines when it's warm outside! Rosé plays well with a lot of different foods. Rosé's fruitiness is enhanced when chilled and has a thirst-quenching quality (even if we should be hydrating with water). You can turn cheap versions into pitchers of sangria.

However, rosé wines can be seductive at Valentine's Day. They can pull the Thanksgiving table together. They can work at a cocktail party on a random Saturday in October or as a killer sparkling wine with tapas at a restaurant on a night out in January. They work with the tricky rich and salty combination of foods like baked ham or "green" foods.

I believe that this "rosé is for summer" myth sprouted once rosé from the Provence region of France became very popular. Provençal rosé is light, dry, delicate, and delicious with light appetizers, salads, and seafood...things we tend to eat more of on warm days. The Provence style is an easy crowd-pleaser as you can satisfy a range of palates for a gathering. But what if you eat light year-round? What if you are a ravenous carnivore, whether you are outside grilling or pan-searing indoors? How about those winter holiday parties? If you are anything like my family in December, you would think we have 75 people coming over. There is more than light and delicate rosé out there.

Quick educational tangent: most times rosé wine is white winemaking with red grape varieties. Gently crush grapes, let the white juice run out into a tank, allow a short period of skin contact (to achieve desired color), and drain pink juice to a stainless steel tank ready for fermentation.

So maybe it's time I re-evaluate my own wine buying and drinking choices. Who says you can't have rosé at any time of year? Now is the perfect time to get tasting all the styles of rosé wine. Your retailer is getting them in on their shelves. You can ask for something you don't see and a good shop will be able to turn your request around in a day or two (assuming the distributor has the wine in stock or available to sell in your state of residence).

Let's stop making "rosé in summer" like "don't wear white after Labor Day." Here is a recommendation for several of styles of rosé out there, including a little bubbly. Just make sure you and I keep the momentum going together through September and beyond.

Mont Marçal Cava Rosado ($18)

This is a sparkling wine made from Trepat, a red Catalan grape variety that is well-suited for rosé winemaking thanks to its berry-scented fruitiness. This example has a strawberry jam on toast flavor that would make a great counterpoint to salty-umami appetizers featuring anchovies or capers.

Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence ($15)

A classic, moderately-priced rosé that we have consistent success with at the store. This is a traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre that balances fresh red berry fruit with acidity. The ruby red grapefruit note in this wine is enhanced with a green salad with a basic vinaigrette. 

Adelsheim Willamette Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir ($17)

Now we start moving into wines with more body and texture. Adelsheim makes exquisite red wines from Pinot Noir, but their rosé bursts with strawberries and nectarines. The balance of body and acidity leads to food versatility and is a great match with more substantial dishes like poached chicken, baked ham or even a roast turkey.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec-Cabernet Rosado ($12)

Bousquet's wines come from vineyards situated at absurd altitudes (over 4,000 feet above sea level), leading to grapes with high acid and deep color. The Malbec gives soft ripe berry fruit while the Cabernet contributes lively cherry fruit. I like this with a sturdy fish, such as tuna or swordfish with soft green herbs, or roast pork.

Peter Zemmer Alto Adige Lagrein ($19)

Lagrein is a variety that thrives in the northeast of Italy, giving wines with intense violet aromatics and dark berry fruit. When made as a rosé in this example from Peter Zemmer, the flavors are more cherry and raspberry-scented with rose petals and wild herbs. There is even a slight tannic bitterness that adds to the overall flavor. Our salesperson described this as a "steak wine" and I can't say I disagree! This is a perfect rosé to enjoy with red meat.