Tired Of The Heat? Turn To The Old World For Help

The dog days of summer have officially arrived. Independence Day is long in the rearview mirror, and it has been friggin’ hot outside ever since. Fortunately when we want to avoid crowds at the beach, the kiddie pool and the sprinkler have come in quite handy. The afternoon popsicle or Boston Cream Donut Klondike Bar hasn’t been too shabby of an option either. As for a glass of wine? Put those heavy, high-alcohol reds and rich, oaky whites away and join me on the side of Old World refreshment.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

These sweltering days call out for some good old-fashioned acidity, a critical component of wine but it is also the aspect of lemonade or unsweetened iced tea that livens up your palate and gets your mouth watering (also a good thing in the heat so you get something to eat to keep your energy up).

We also need something unoaked, so all of the fruitiness and acidity stands out. Wines aged in oak are round, textured, and pleasant to enjoy most times, but they will tire out your palate real fast since the acidity tends to be muted or in some cases non-existent.

Low alcohol also helps here, too. We don’t want a high-abv wine (basically, anything 14.0% and up) to dehydrate us. Additionally, higher alcohol wines, in general, tend to be lower in acidity. Old World wines from Europe skew in the direction we are looking for. The growing season is typically shorter than New World regions with many cooling influences to preserve acidity and keep potential alcohol levels lower, but the Old World gives you plenty of vibrant flavors and aromas to keep your senses interested while being boiled in the dead of summer..

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The following flight is Tony-tested, Tony-approved. If you don’t see any of the producers, look for wines from these regions or made from these grape varieties as acceptable substitutes. Of course, you can also get in touch with specific questions. My office is always open. So get a good chill on these and go to town!

Les Vignerons de Florensac Picpoul de Pinet ($13): Picpoul is the grape you never knew you needed until you try it. Despite over 300 sunny days per year in Southern France, this white grape not only thrives, but it displays an incredible amount of zest with a full citrus bowl of fruit and hint of fresh herbs on the nose. On the palate, there is a minerally quality to it and a long, lemony finish. It’s a terrific alternative to both Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc that also pairs well with delicate white fish.

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Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino Vendemmia 30 ($16): Even on the warm island of Sardinia, the white grape Vermentino has adapted to the harsh climate beautifully. Vermentino has great texture, but it is balanced by a streak of natural acidity that comes from Mediterranean island viticulture. This wine has a great combination of lemon, peach, and tropical fruits with a saline character on the finish. This is the 30th vintage of the Costamolino, and Argiolas keeps knocking it out of the park with this wine. Perfect partner with shellfish and makes for an interesting alternate to unoaked Chardonnay.

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90+ Cellars Cotes de Provence Rosé ($12): A classic blend of southern French red grapes Grenache and Cinsault, both of which give fruity wines with plenty of acidity and a delicate color since neither grape has particularly thick skins. When these red grapes are used to make a rosé, there is a fun crossover of white wine flavors (grapefruit, nectarine) and red wine flavors (strawberry, watermelon). Throw in a slightly herbaceous nose and salty palate, and you have a steal on your hands while getting a good foundation of what Provence Rosé is all about..

127 Days of Food and Beverage, In Pictures

For the past 127 life-altering days, the main goal around here has simply been to keep everyone’s physical and mental health as strong as it can be. As any of you can attest to daily it isn’t easy to deal with, but hopefully we can all find some pockets of time to be able to sit back and appreciate what we have. During these times of quarantine/lockdown/social distancing, I have always been able to count on Friday Pizza & Movie Night, takeout dinners to support a local restaurant once per week, and the Sunday Cocktail & Appetizers right here at home. Of course, there is the occasional Thursday Happy Hour on our deck with oversized chess, checkers, and “four-in-a-row,” or even the Tuesday night where I decide, “screw it…I’m getting a beer.”

Seeing as I haven’t shared anything with you all in a while, I figured now is as good a time as any to do so. I have taken some of my favorite moments of food and beverage experiences over the last 3+ months to help you get caught up. Think of it as a “Best Of” mini-guide to help you the next time you are looking to cook something up or pick up something new at your local liquor mart.

Drink from the fire hose, and feel free to share what you have tried since March…I’d love to hear about it! In the meantime, hang in there and be good to one another.

Kicking Back: Argentina, Brews, and Sherry

You all know I spend a great deal of time tasting as a professional. Dissecting wines, spirits, beers, and any other beverage is just what I do. However, I also like to kick back over the weekend and simply enjoy something without thinking about it (too much). OK, fine…I taste the first mouthful critically, figure out what is going on, then savor it while watching a movie, dining out, or for nothing more than straightforward pleasure.

And what good is it if I taste these wonderful things and then not share them with you? So here we go with a run-down of everything I sampled over the weekend. It will give you something to consider when expanding your drinking horizons.

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Domaine Bousquet Virgen Red Blend Mendoza

It is appropriate that I would have this wine during Lent as this Certified Organic Argentinian blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc is Vegan-Friendly (so no animal products were used during the fining process). No oak, no filtration, and no sulfites added, Virgen is packed with blackberry and blueberry fruit flavor and a slight floral/herbaceous note on the nose that complements the fruity fragrance. 14.5% ABV. $15

Firestone Walker Lager, Paso Robles, California

From the Firestone Walker website:

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In the words of Brewmaster Matt Brynildson, "Firestone Lager is made for drinking, not thinking. It's about enjoying a good, clean beer."

I couldn’t agree more. When hanging with the family at the Jealous Monk, I wanted something easy to help me wash down the plate of sausage, spaetzle, pierogies, and sauerkraut I ordered for dinner. This German-style Helles has touch of malt and hint of bitterness, which is all I needed. This is a real crowd-pleaser that has lawnmower beer potential. 4.5% ABV, IBU: 17, $10/6-pack

New England Cider Company Passion Fruit Cider, Wallingford, Connecticut

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There have been many times I have seen ciders from these folks, and I have passed over them wondering if it would be too sweet. Well, The Greatest Wife In The World ordered this with Fish & Chips, and it was pretty damn tasty. A sweeter cider, but not sticky or cloying at all as it was very well-balanced with a nice zing of acidity. The passion fruit flavor enhanced the fruitiness of the cider, too. Kudos to the New England Cider Company on this seasonal release! 5.2% ABV, $11/6-pack (estimated)

To close out the weekend, I revisited a wine from a recent program we did at the store with Lustau Sherry, the Almacenista José Luis González Obregón Fino del Puerto. Yes, this is a mouthful to say, but you know what? This bone dry, tangy, nutty Sherry is a perfect partner with nuts, olives, cured meats, and a range of hard cheeses. It’s also so good, the entire Lustau evening deserves a post of its own (hint, hint…). 15% ABV. $17/500mL bottle.

How To Write Meaningful Wine Tasting Notes

Make the wines mean something to you.

Make the wines mean something to you.

When you are out shopping for wines, let’s face it…there is an overwhelming number of them to choose from. Part of the fun in trying different wines is tapping into your palate; understanding what you like and what you don’t like are equally important. So what better way to document the journey of wine exploration by writing some tasting notes?

“But Tony,” you may be asking, “where do I begin?”

This is a fair question, because if you are going to do it, you want it to have meaningful data that you can refer back to at some point in the future. I feel very confident in saying that you all know what you like when it comes to flavors and aromas. The hard part can be articulating the sensations you are getting as you try a wine for the first time. Not only will you be getting know a wine for yourself, but chances are you may be sharing information about this wine with friends, family, acquaintances (and enemies, if you think a wine is terrible).

Your notes need to be somewhere in between…

“This is good.”

and:

“A lovely bouquet of narcissus and lilac leap out of the glass followed by candied pineapple and lemon curd. The kaleidoscope of aromas is joined by citrus fruit, crushed stone, and lightly toasted bread. The palate is expansive and rich on the attack, but tightens up some on the energetic finish.”

Side note: If I ever discuss a wine and I write a something like the above actual tasting note I read this week, feel free to unfollow/unfriend/disown me. It’s not my style. I am trying to pull you into wine, not push you away. I guess a daffodil (a.k.a. “narcissus”) doesn’t invoke enough of a romantic image, and who knew you could smell through a kaleidoscope! [end rant].

My (half) kidding aside, make your notes in a way that you and others can understand. There’s no need to go out of your way to write down a fancy descriptor (unless that flavor/aroma obviously shows itself AND your circle of friends will recognize it). You can use a wine journal geared toward tasting, a plain old spiral notebook, or an app. So let’s go step-by-step…

Observe It

Color is not going to indicate quality, but will help you see faults. For example, if you opened a 2018 unoaked Sauvignon Blanc from Chile and it pours cloudy and brown instead of star bright and lemon yellow, throw it away. If the white wine is golden or amber colored rather than water white or green-yellow, it could be a sign of age. If the color of a red wine is more brick red rather than purple-ruby, chances are you are looking at a red wine with some age on it. If the red wine is pale in color, don’t be put off…color intensity does not equate to quality; many times it can just be indicative of a grape variety. For instance, Nebbiolo wines from Piedmont are pale and delicate in color, but loaded with flavor and structural components (acid, alcohol, tannins) made for long-aging in a cellar. An $8 large brand red blend from Chile may be deep in color, but flavors could be one-dimensional and finish short on you. As for looking for tears or “legs” on a glass of wine after you swirl it, they’re pretty but they mean absolutely nothing when you want to assess quality. Make a note on color and then…

Smell It

If you can identify specific flowers you smell in a wine, go for it, but if you are not totally sure you can always call the wine “floral.”

If you can identify specific flowers you smell in a wine, go for it, but if you are not totally sure you can always call the wine “floral.”

Does your wine smell like wet cardboard or a musty basement? If so, the wine isn’t bad for your health, but it is likely going to minimize your enjoyment. This is courtesy of “cork taint.” If we have avoided that, then start noting what you are smelling.

You can group aromas into categories to keep them simple and more generic. Is the wine floral? Fruity? Do you smell spices? Does the wine smell “green” with earthy, herbaceous, or unripe aromas? Do you smell something nutty or woody? These are easy to use when you are unsure of what you are smelling, because these categories are distinct from one another. If you want to dive into specific flowers (i.e. violets), fruits (i.e. peaches), spices (i.e. cinnamon), and herbs and grasses, go for it. From there, how intense are the aromas…Light or strong? Make notes on intensity and types of aromas you get on the nose, then…

Taste It

A mouthful to swirl around in your mouth so you get all the sensations is all you need; this helps you determine if you mouth waters (presence of acid), dries out (presence of tannin), feels fiery in the back of your throat (presence of alcohol), or comes off as sweet. See if anything you smelled earlier is confirmed on your palate. Sometimes a wine that is spicy on the nose tastes fruity, or vice-versa. Notice if the texture feels light-bodied and on the watery side or full-bodied and creamy. Maybe the texture feel somewhere in-between. A wine feels balanced on the palate when none of these aspects is screaming out for attention over the others. After making notes on how the wine tastes…

Savor It

This is possibly your best indicator of combined quality and enjoyment. Do the pleasant flavors linger on your palate after you close your mouth and swallow the wine? No alcohol burn? Is it refreshing with acidity? Is there an interesting flavor that stands out? Are there many flavors going on that you can’t quite pick out, but make you feel happy? These are all components of wine that make you want to go back for another sip. If the flavors hit you quickly in the beginning but fade fast, or the alcohol burns, or the fruit intensity doesn’t feel in balance with the acids and tannins, the wine may not be as enjoyable after multiple sips. Make notes of these items, then…

Personalize It

If drinking a wine reminds you of this, jot it down! Image credit: Food Network

If drinking a wine reminds you of this, jot it down! Image credit: Food Network

I spend a whole lot of time researching, analyzing, and critically tasting wines. While it is a part of my job that I really like, there is nothing like adding something personal to it. Did the wine smell like a botanical garden you walked through one Saturday afternoon? Make note of it. Did you have the wine with friends at dinner somewhere? Write that down. Did you open a bottle for a special occasion? Does the wine remind you of something from childhood? The Boss at Divine Wine always remarks how a good Argentine Malbec reminds him of blueberry pie baking when he was a kid. This is how you make a meaningful connection to the wines you drink.

Share It

Was it good? Really good? The best wine you ever had? Share it with others. Talk about it over lunch. Share it on Facebook or Instagram. Let your retailers and restaurants know how good the wines are. This kind of feedback helps everyone stay in business.

Now you should have a solid picture of what you just tasted. Snap a pic of the label/bottle. Make sure you write down the name of the wine and the vintage. Check out the back label and note who the importer or supplier is, and you may begin to see a pattern of what you like based on that particular portfolio.

Want an example of finished tasting notes? Check this out straight from my own notebook below. All written in plain language, no bizarre terminology. You can do this.

Wine: Menade Rueda Verdejo

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Supplier/Importer: European Cellars

Vintage: 2016

Price: $15

Color: Golden

Nose: Green olives, thyme, nutty. Aromas are intense.

Palate: Medium-bodied with texture, no alcohol burn, green apples, earthy, nutty, and savory.

Finish: Refreshing acidity, flavors stay with me for a while.

Overall impression: Very good for the dollar and Organic. Reminds me of the plates of olives and bread we get at Becco in NYC. I dig the label, too.

As always, if you have questions, please get in touch with a comment below. Good luck in developing your own library of tasting notes!

Drinking Religiously

Much of our modern drinking culture stems from the work of monks during the Middle Ages. Even though much of their lives were spent serving a higher calling by attending multiple church services per day and translating texts to other languages, the monks also provided medical care, farmed the land and among other things, produced beer and wine. Of particular note, the Paulaner Friars in Bavaria (Munich) created a beer that would sustain them during the fasting periods when richer food like meat (where with bread was a staple of the monk’s diet) was a no-no. This style is referred to as the doppelbock.

Behold…my beer-inator!

Behold…my beer-inator!

The bock family of lagers are strong and malty with no real hoppy character. At 6.0-7.0% abv, the bocks are smooth, creamy, and rich in texture with a caramel flavor. The Paulaner Friars took this style to the next level in strength and richness with the doppel (double) bock, where the beers were even darker and fuller-bodied, with an abv checking in around 7.5-8.0%; modern examples by craft brewers can take this up to an abv as high as 12.0% with toasty flavors entering the equation, essentially “liquid bread” to feed the monks. When the fasting period was over, the lighter and hoppier maibock (also referred to as helles lager) was consumed in celebration.

The Paulaner Friars called this the “Salvator,” which translates to “savior,” and to this day many doppelbock beers include -ator in its name in reverence to the foundation of this beer style. Fun fact: bock beers, where “ein bock” translates to “billy goat,” will frequently depict goats on the labels.

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Whether you observe Ash Wednesday today and the Lenten season, or you just want to introduce yourself to a new beer style that will warm you up during these remaining chilly days, reach for a doppelbock. Additionally, if you are a fan of Belgian Dubbels, try its lager counterpart to the east. Here are three for you to find.

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Paulaner Salvator ($11/6-pack): The granddaddy of them all, this beer has been made for 375 years. The Salvator has a creamy texture with a chocolate-covered caramel flavor backed up by light hoppiness to create balance on your palate. 7.9% abv

Ayinger Celebrator ($14/4-pack): darker and maltier than the Salvator, but drier on the finish, the flavor profile shows more of a toasted bread and espresso character. It’s kind of like drinking breakfast (which 500 years ago was exactly the idea). 7.2% abv

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Tröegs Tröegenator ($11/6-pack): Here is an American take on this style from central Pennsylvania, a region that traces its history to German settlers. The Tröegenator shows more of a reddish color than dark brown and has more noticeable hops and fruit than the traditional producers, but it still sticks to the malty character that defines the doppelbock style. 8.2% abv. NOTE: there is also a Bourbon barrel-aged version of this beer, where the alcohol is jacked up to 9.8% abv, available in 12.7 oz bottles that are about $15 per bottle.