Ask Tony: Why Is Champagne So Expensive?

Looks like Daffy hit the jackpot. Time to go buy some Champagne!

Looks like Daffy hit the jackpot. Time to go buy some Champagne!

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Today's question is one that has popped up somewhat regularly dating back to my days working the sales floor in New Jersey: Why does Champagne cost so much money to buy? It's a discussion that has several layers and doesn't contain a one-word answer, but it is a fair one and deserves my time and yours.

Let's start with what Champagne is. It is a sparkling wine made according to a set of rules and standards from the Champagne region of France. Chardonnay (valued for acidity and creaminess), Pinot Noir (valued for its structure and aromatics), and Pinot Meunier (a fruity, early-ripening red wine grape suitable for the cool climate of Champagne) are the most popular choices to make Champagne, though other grape varieties are permitted. Champagne invokes an image of luxury and elegance. It is the go-to for celebrations, gifts, holidays, and more. These reasons among many others is why the folks at the Champagne Bureau are fiercely protective of the name "Champagne" and have been doing so since the onset of World War II. There is nothing like it produced anywhere in the world.

Short rant: This includes products that are labeled "California Champagne," which are not anything close to the real thing, but the name has been grandfathered by a loophole that permits the United States to use this misleading label terminology. I would like to see what would happen if a "French Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon" made it onto our shelves and see how well that goes over around here.

So why is it that when we go searching for authentic Champagne, we see price tags that start in the $30-$40 range and climb seemingly exponentially from there?

It is highly stressful being a grapegrower in Champagne.

Late spring frosts can kill buds on the vines, delaying or eliminating the ability for grapes to grow. Early fall frosts can freeze grapes on the vines, changing the composition of the grapes before they are harvested. These vineyard threats, along with a generally short growing season, makes it challenging to have optimal grapes for winemaking. A lot of hands-on care and monitoring of the vineyards is important. Additionally, if a grapegrower is selling grapes or wine to a larger Champagne brand, the pressure is on to perform, even though you can't control nature. It all costs money.

The method of making Champagne is labor intensive.

After base wine is fermented, a second fermentation takes place inside individual bottles with yeast and sugar added prior to being capped; this is what gets the bubbles inside Champagne. After this second fermentation takes place, the wine ages on the spent yeast cells (the lees) for a minimum of 18 months (many producers will go well above the minimum requirements). After that there is riddling, a technique involving a slow maneuvering of individual bottles to get the spent yeasts cells into each bottle's neck before being ejected from the bottles (called disgorgement). Most Champagne houses still employ manual labor to handle these tasks, though there are mechanized options such as a gyropalette that can handle the riddling. After disgorgement, the dosage (the sugar/wine combo that determines a Champagne's sweetness/dryness) is added before being bottled under pressure, ready to be labeled. This multistep process adds cost to the wine.

Blending is both science and art. Image credit: Marc Chauvet

Blending is both science and art. Image credit: Marc Chauvet

Larger Champagne producers often have stocks of reserve wine on hand that are blended with the most recent harvest to create a "house style" for a non-vintage Champagne. The effort of establishing how the wine of an individual vintage tastes, then seeking out the proper proportions of reserve wine to blend in is what allows your Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label or Moët & Chandon Imperial to taste the same year after year. In a way, this is how blended Scotch whisky is made; no age statement in many cases means stocks of reserve whisky of varying ages need to be on hand with newer whisky to create what Johnnie Walker Black Label tastes like you after year. If the non-vintage Champagne or the blended Scotch does not taste typical of the house style, it damages the credibility of the brand. Champagne houses will pay for the ability to keep the flagship product consistent to help develop brand loyalty.

Want a Champagne from a specific vintage? Be prepared to pay even more money. A vintage Champagne will showcase the character of an individual harvest, but that also takes away juice that could be used for the higher-volume (and more revenue-generating) non-vintage flagship product, leading the Champagne blender to have to find another source for the non-vintage expression. Additionally, vintage Champagnes are required to age on the spent yeast cells for three years, so there is greater inventory management and monitoring that takes place.

Let's also address marketing, advertising and cultural impact.

You will see pages of luxury magazines (real estate, cigars, wine and spirits, cars, etc.) devoted to landing clientele with plenty of disposable income. Cristal, Moët, Dom Perignon, and Ace of Spades have all made their way into hip-hop lyrics (go do a Google search on that for complete NSFW results). This only drives demand further and prices go up.

So what if you want to enjoy Champagne on occasion, but you don't make money hand-over-fist? Seek out some Grower Champagnes. These are individual farmers that don't sell their grapes or wine to the larger brands and produce their own Champagne from start to finish. There are limited funds for farmers to run advertising, so they rely heavily on importers and distributors to promote their products to retailers so you can have access to their Champagnes. The entry-level wines may not be markedly cheaper, but the highest-end products never get out of control (and by that, I mean you shouldn't have to reach triple digits to buy a bottle of killer bubbly).

I'll be honest...I have never been a huge Champagne consumer in my wine-drinking lifetime. All of the steps to producing Champagne made me think it was for high-maintenance, needy types with too much money and a quest to achieve status. But you know what? I eventually discovered there are just as many painstaking steps to create Scotch whisky. And Port. And Sherry. And Madeira. These are all things I enjoy. It would be hypocritical of me to bang on Champagne's meticulous nature.

When you really see what it takes to produce a bottle of Champagne, you gain perspective and appreciation for it. That's the sole purpose of this blog...to get you to open your eyes and your mind to all adult beverages. With that, raise a glass of this distinct, authentic sparkling wine sometime "just because" instead of waiting for a special occasion. The Grower Champagne link above takes care of the recommendations on what to seek out in that category, but if you want to get started with a few of the well-known brands and understand their styles, here's what to look for.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut ($33)

A cooperative Champagne producer, Feuillatte's entry-level example is floral on the nose with a white peach and apple flavor and fresh baked bread on the finish. This makes an excellent starting point in your Champagne adventures. 

Taittinger Brut La Française ($50)

Creamy and golden with peaches, vanilla, and brioche bread flavors, the texture is enhanced by at least three years of aging on the lees. Very lively and enjoyable.

Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée ($50)

Smoky, rich, and deeply flavored, Bollinger's flagship product has baked pears, apples and roasted walnuts, with a toasty, savory finish. This has plenty of character to stand up to smoked seafood.

Gin: You Win

As a consumer of alcoholic beverages, notably in the spirits category, you are in a great position. So many of the classics are being revived thanks to the craft spirit industry combined with a new appreciation for cocktails. Rye whiskey is certainly one of them as the style was on life support as recently as twenty years ago. Tequila has re-emerged thanks to the popularity of margaritas. But perhaps no spirit has seen the benefit of the craft spirits industry and cocktails more than gin.

Gin: not just a card game played by Bugs Bunny and Yosemite Sam

Gin: not just a card game played by Bugs Bunny and Yosemite Sam

Gin started out, like the majority of spirits, as a way to cure various ailments of post-Renaissance era Europe. The juniper berry, the main (and most distinct) flavor and aroma of gin, was thought to help with stomach issues and also help fend off the pestilence known as Black Death. Juniper-based tonics were thought to originate in Holland, but when William of Orange took the throne of England in 1689 its popularity spread throughout the country. Since his first point of order was to declare war on France, brandy was no longer available. To find a new source of revenue, William encouraged distillation, production, and sale of gin. By the way...William allowed anyone on the street to do this.

The guy responsible for the Gin Craze in England, for better or worse.

The guy responsible for the Gin Craze in England, for better or worse.

As a result, 12 million liters of product was being distilled in London alone, a city with a population of 600,000 people. Think about that for a minute. There was half a liter of gin for every man, woman, and child (yes, child) to consume each week! Gin took over London in a negative way, with criminal activity, lack of economic growth (since everyone was hammered on gin and not working at their jobs), and overall chaos consuming the city. Gin production was lacking so much in oversight, you had recipes that included alum, sulfuric acid, turpentine! Add a sweetener to disguise the chemicals, and you were in business!

It took a good forty years to get under control, but in 1761 government regulations made it so that the major distillers were the only ones permitted to produce gin. A dry style, the type we are familiar with today, was developed by the early 1800s. Juniper berries remained a major part of production, but other botanical elements like coriander, angelica, and orris roots became the "big four" ingredients in a wheat-based distillate in the modern style of gin. While those four ingredients formed the base of gin, today's distillers have taken some interesting alternative approaches to creating a wide range of examples that have clean flavors and intense aromatics not necessarily dominated by juniper. Citrus peels, berries, cucumbers, rose petals, cinnamon sticks, cardamom...anything from the spice rack could conceivably end up in your gin, much better than discovering turpentine in there!

For the longest time, I was not a fan of gin. Maybe I was too young the first time I tried it and I wasn't ready for the onslaught of aromatic power. Today, I couldn't be a bigger advocate of gin. Tanqueray, one of the most juniper-forward gins out there and my first sample of the spirit way back when, can be polarizing with its sharpness and piney aromatics. Some of you love it. Others can't stand it, but that leads to a thought that all gin is made in that style. Fortunately for you, the resurgence of this spirit once considered to be the scourge of London has led to some innovation where you can find a level of juniper that agrees with you. Its transparency of flavor is fantastic for cocktails. The martini is a classic (remember...if your martinis have vodka in it, those are "vodka martinis"). Gin and tonic with a lemon or lime is a simple way to enjoy it. You can go big with a French 75, where Champagne is involved in the recipe. The huge range of styles of gin as your base material combined with other mixers leads to countless permutations of cocktails. Gin is light and refreshing...perfect for the warm days we have coming up here in the northeast. Hell, if you like your gins neat, you can now find barrel-aged examples, which is a whole other animal to deal with.

Is this a comprehensive guide to gin I just presented you? No, not at all. If I get all the cocktails out there in this post, that's admittedly cutting into our future discussions. Additionally, I will be going into more details on production when I run my Gin 101 course at the Divine Wine Emporium on June 2nd, 7:00pm (how's that for a shameless plug!). I can't give away all my secrets.

What I can give you today are some gins to get started. You claim you do not like gin, but that just means you haven't found the right one yet. I am here to introduce you to some gin that will help you gain an appreciation for this flavor-packed white spirit. Gin won me over in the end, and one of these will win you over, too.

Bluecoat American Dry Gin ($27): This is an American take on the styles created by Bombay Sapphire, Tanqueray, and the like. Bluecoat, made by Philadelphia Distilling, uses juniper, coriander, angelica, and citrus peels to create a balanced, yet lively gin. This is our house gin as the price is completely reasonable when compared to the larger brands.

Hendrick's Gin ($36): This Scottish gin is infused with cucumber and rose petals after the distillation process is complete. Aside from the typical ingredients, elderflower and chamomile are part of the recipe. As a result, Hendrick's is floral with the juniper tempered on the nose. The palate is soft and gentle. This is always the gin I recommend to those who claim they don't like gin.

Brockman's Gin ($35): Another Scottish gin, Brockman's infuses blueberries, blackberries, and almonds. This is very different from the two listed above, but this fruit-forward style can be a fantastic ingredient in a cocktail like a Negroni. The strong berry notes are a nice foil to the bitterness of Campari and a great way to start a cocktail party.

Caledonia Spirits Barr Hill "Tom Cat" Barrel-Aged Gin ($50-ish)

Want to try a barrel-aged gin? This is the way to go. Caledonia uses a corn-based spirit instead of the traditional wheat for gin. The second distillation includes honey since this Vermont distiller is also a beekeeper. After just three months in barrel, the gin shows a richness on the palate that is not typical of gin thanks to the corn base and honey combination. The juniper still comes through; any more time in barrel would kill the aromas. This is a real treat...seek this one out if you are into aged spirits!

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Gewürztraminer

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

Sometimes, you need an excuse to step outside of your comfort zone. Internally, you might recognize that you need to branch out and be more adventurous in your drinking. However, it can be difficult to choose a direction, particularly if you are not familiar with some of the grape varieties available to you.

So today, I unveil the "Fun To Say, Fun To Drink" feature for you. Need a run-down of a wine grape that you might have seen on a shelf, but you were hesitant to spend the money on it? I have you covered, and the debut involves the distinct and unusual grape called Gewürztraminer.

Umm...how do you say that, and what is it?

Gewürztraminer (guh-VERTZ-trah-meen-er) is an aromatic white grape variety which, despite having a German name, has its roots in Alsace, France. If you read your history books, you will remember that this eastern section of France was fought over for many centuries, changing hands from French to German rule a number of times until the end of World War II. It's cool, yet sunny climate lets Gewürztraminer and other aromatic varieties thrive. Despite being considered a white grape, Gewürztraminer has a pink/red color to its skins. Because of that, the wines end up having a coppery hue to them.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

So what does Gewürztraminer smell and taste like?

Gewürztraminer is loaded with tropical and exotic fruit, perfume, flowers, and spices; these wild flavors and aromas make sense when we find out that "Gewürztraminer" translates to "spiced traminer", where "traminer" is an ancient family of aromatic varieties that made its home in northeastern Italy's Tyrol region (near the Austrian border). When I went to school at the International Wine Center and studied the Alsace region, our instructor for the session claimed Gewürztraminer to be a "banker" grape; it's aromas are so distinct that if I encountered it on an exam, I could easily identify it and "take it to the bank" that I would be right. Guess what? So can you.

Is all Gewürztraminer the same?

Not at all. Gewürztraminer has the tendency to get high in alcohol and low in acidity, so it can have a flabby, oily texture if the grapes ripen too quickly. Underripe Gewürztraminer can be very light in flavor; I would describe that sensation of drinking rosewater or green tea. There is a wide range of expressions in between those extremes, and vineyard site selection is critical in getting the most out of this grape. Aside from Alsace, you can find Gewürztraminer from northeastern Italy, Germany, Oregon, Washington State's Columbia Valley, the Finger Lakes of New York, and even South Africa. Examples can also finish fruity (with a pleasant bitter edge), dry, or sweet (in the case of "Late Harvest" examples that turn to raisins on the vine).

So what do you have for me and what am I eating with them?

I am glad you asked! By the way, due to Gewürztraminer's fussiness and difficulty to deal with in the vineyards and winery, it is not a cheap wine. That being said, I have some reasonably-priced examples that you should be able to find at your local wine shop or beverage depot.

Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Gewürztraminer ($18)

Floral, citrusy, and gingery, this zesty example from Oregon's Montinore Estate will work great with a range of Thai or Indian dishes. A great way to get yourself familiar with Gewürztraminer for under $20.

Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Gewürztraminer ($25)

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this Italian example is very lively and aromatic, but lush on the palate. It's full-bodied texture makes this great with a plate of sausages or a pasta with ground sausage, cream, and basil. The honeyed mango flavors would make this work with duck, too.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer ($25)

Pierre Sparr traces its history back to the year 1680. Anise, apricots, and dried peaches show in this wine, along with a touch of residual sweetness. If you are familiar with the lychee fruit, you might detect that here, too. I would go with bacon-wrapped scallop with this one.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg ($40)

Pierre Sparr's Mambourg vineyard is dominated by Gewürztraminer vines, which have an average age of 40 years, leading to intense, concentrated wines. This wine is rich and full-bodied with a spectrum of dried tropical fruits, honey, and spice. If you are living it up this would be a great match with foie gras. 

Classic Cocktails: No Alterations Necessary

Let me share something with you. You know me to be a wine guy, or someone who likes to drink whiskey neat. I really enjoy those things, but we have a tradition that was built over the last few years at Castello d'Ambrosini: the Sunday four o'clock cocktail. After a beatdown of a workweek, baseball games and afterschool activities, we reward ourselves with a good pre-dinner drink and snacks. Get some music on and we are off and running. 

If you are a cocktail-lover and want to know about the classics, you better tell me why you don't have this book on your shelf.

If you are a cocktail-lover and want to know about the classics, you better tell me why you don't have this book on your shelf.

The Best Wife In The World and I keep an eye out for interesting mixed drinks, check our favorite references, and solicit some ideas from friends. But you know what? We have a staple that we can always fall back on when we have too many options to choose from, or if we are not finding anything that jumps out at us.

"Hey, how about a Sidecar?"

According to Vintage Cocktails: Authentic Recipes and Illustrations from 1920-1960 (authored by Susan Waggoner and Robert Markel), the Sidecar came to be when a World War I officer was dropped off at his favorite drinking establishment in Paris after riding in the sidecar of a motorcycle. Feeling cold, he asked the bartender for something to warm him up, and just like that the Sidecar was born.

This is not the time to splurge for the rare Cognac. Keep it simple...and flavorful. Image credit: Liquor.com

This is not the time to splurge for the rare Cognac. Keep it simple...and flavorful. Image credit: Liquor.com

All you need are three ingredients: your favorite brandy, Cointreau, and lemon juice. These are three items that should always be in your home bar; they are always in stock here. We use a VS-level Cognac most times; Remy Martin VSOP adds a little depth and richness. That being said, rather than use this drink to warm us up, we like it all year round. It's a lively and mouthwatering drink; right after the first sip, we are immediately looking to eat something.

If you have triple sec on hand, that's fine, but Cointreau has the magic combo of bitterness, sweetness, and smooth orangey flavor that adds a great dimension to many cocktails, including a Sidecar.

If you have triple sec on hand, that's fine, but Cointreau has the magic combo of bitterness, sweetness, and smooth orangey flavor that adds a great dimension to many cocktails, including a Sidecar.

What's beautiful about the Sidecar is its straightforward simplicity. Yet there are recipes out there claiming to be Sidecars that use lime juice or sour mix in place of the lemon juice. Rum is sometimes added to the equation. Proportions are messed with that take the drink out of balance (too much lemon juice makes it overly tart, too much booze makes it overly, uh...boozy). If you want make a variant, be my guest. If you want the authentic recipe, just shake up the following ingredients into a cocktail shaker full of ice, and strain into a cocktail glass. As with all cocktails, use the best ingredients you can, but no alterations are necessary.

1.5 oz Cognac (Remy Martin or Hennessy VS work very well)

0.75 oz Cointreau

0.75 oz fresh lemon juice

Wine In The Land Of Shakespeare

From the 1936 MGM Film Romeo and Juliet

From the 1936 MGM Film Romeo and Juliet

"Come, come, good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used; exclaim no more against it."
-William Shakespeare, English poet and writer, (1564-1616) in Othello

Good wine has become good and familiar to me. I have spent the better part of the past seven years learning and tasting as much as I can so I can share it with all of you. While the quote above does not originate from a play in Shakespeare's most recognizable setting of Verona, I do feel compelled to talk to you about this romantic part of Italy. It's extra romantic to me as back when my wife and I traveled from Milan to Venice, we had no idea these vineyards existed...we just zipped right by the area.

This past Thursday night, we welcomed Iris DiCicco, Brand Ambassador for the wines of Gerardo Cesari (CHEZZ-uh-ree), to our store. Armed with great information, a delicious range of wines (priced anywhere from $10-$80 per bottle), and a giant plate of meats and cheeses from Eataly of Boston, the crowd was in for an awesome night. 

Iris DiCicco getting us familiar with the lay of the land for the vineyards that lead to some unbelievably good wines.

Iris DiCicco getting us familiar with the lay of the land for the vineyards that lead to some unbelievably good wines.

The city of Verona acts as a good home base for the wines of the demarcated region called Valpolicella, whose vineyards fan out to the north. Here, the red grape Corvina rules the vineyards. Its cherry flavors, high acidity, and low tannin in its simplest form makes it versatile with a range of pasta dishes and a good red for sturdy, oily fish like salmon. On the hillsides, Corvina becomes fuller, deeply colored, and more structured, which is good for meatier dishes. Corvina is joined by other local grapes like Rondinella (neutral and easy to grow) and Molinara (acidic, not required or easy to grow) to make the typical recipe for Valpolicella.

Then you have the long-lived cellar-worthy variant of Valpolicella known as Amarone della Valpolicella. To make this wine, Corvina and Rondinella are traditionally dried on straw mats for months to turn into raisins. This leads to highly-structured, rich, concentrated wines. Cesari uses a technique in silicon crates that are easy to clean, preventing potential mold growth and off-flavors to future grapes. Amarone takes its name from "amaro" meaning "bitter," likely a reference to the high level of tannin that results in the process of making this wine. All you need is a strong piece of hard cheese with a wine like this for maximum enjoyment.

One more variant of Valpolicella is Ripasso della Valpolicella. This is an old-school practice of taking the pressed grape skins left over from Amarone production and refermenting them with basic Valpolicella to add body, richness, and structure to the wine. Consider this to be a "baby Amarone" that is reasonably-priced bridge to Amarone. Ripassos are a good match with pork roasts or game birds.

While we did not taste a basic Valpolicella, we did sample a Ripasso and two Amarones, one of which came from a single vineyard. On its own, this three-wine flight would be an absolute treat. However, I have a single vineyard Corvina-only wine (designated a "Rosso Veronese") that we sampled that needs to be mentioned in this flight, so let's bring it to four wines. Get your hands on these and give them as a gift to someone you love, including yourself!

Note to my fellow wine nerds: no, I did not forget about nearby regions of Soave and Bardolino...those are wines for another day.

Cesari Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore "Mara" ($20): "Mara" is the vineyard name, and to be named "Superiore" means the wine has to have at least a half-degree of alcohol higher than basic Valpolicella. Cherries and a rosemary/thyme scent complements a full-bodied, leathery texture.

Cesari Rosso Veronese "Jèma" ($40): This is 100% Corvina grapes, so since it is not a blend with other grapes typical of Valpolicella, this wine has a "Rosso Veronese" designation. Jèma is the vineyard name, translating to "gem," and this wine certainly is one. After 18 months in new French oak casks and six more months of bottle age before release, this wine has a perfumed violet nose with fresh black cherry, berry, and espresso flavors. Despite the initial richness and flavor intensity, it finishes light and refreshing at the end.

Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico ($50): "Classico" simply means the wine is made from vineyards in the traditional heartland of production. I encourage you to pour this into the glass at least an hour before drinking to let it open up and show its true colors. The wine ages in large neutral oak casks, then 20% of it spends time in new, small barrels. Cherry and pomegrante fruit has that rosemary/thyme scent as in the "Mara" above, but a rich, chocolatey texture, which balances the high acid and tannin level. Amarone's production costs and uniqueness tend to make the wines expensive, but for $50 this is an easy way to get introduced to this style of wine.

Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico "Il Bosco" ($80): This is a single vineyard Amarone expression that has many of the flavors of the wine above, but now add leather, stones, blackberry, and plum flavors. The flavors persist on the palate, and you taste and smell something different each time you go back to it. Let this one open up in the glass, too!

 

Wine: This Time, It's Personal

Replace all of the equations on the board with things like "Frank Brickowski wore #40 for the Milwaukee Bucks," "I was at a party with coworkers when the Packers won Super Bowl XXXI." and "Rondinella is one of the grapes that makes Amarone wine…

Replace all of the equations on the board with things like "Frank Brickowski wore #40 for the Milwaukee Bucks," "I was at a party with coworkers when the Packers won Super Bowl XXXI." and "Rondinella is one of the grapes that makes Amarone wines." That's basically who I am.

I am not one to brag (and this is probably less brag-worthy and more embarrassing), but I can visualize and remember what I have drank over the years. You show me a label, 99% of the time I can tell you whether I have tasted it or not. I don't need an app to do this. I just have my little brain and a few years of backed up pictures on my phone to remind of things I have sampled.

I have done this with other things, too. I can remember where I was for every NFL title game since Super Bowl XX. As a kid, I could store license plate numbers into my brain and connect them to people in my neighborhood. I could remember uniform numbers of basketball, football, and baseball players. This is probably some sort of illness I should have had checked out by a doctor a long time ago, but this is how my mental filing cabinet operates; this way of thinking likely helped me succeed in wine and spirits school.

My wine-drinking experiences are not wretched like the final installment of the Jaws series, but they are personal. Yours should be, too.

My wine-drinking experiences are not wretched like the final installment of the Jaws series, but they are personal. Yours should be, too.

What this all comes down to is making connections to life experiences. I am hoping that most of your drinking adventures are positive. Maybe you drank a macrobrew for the first time with high school or college friends, so it holds a special place in your soul. Perhaps you ordered a bottle of wine on a first date with someone you went on to marry, and you will always remember that evening and the wine you drank with your meal. Or you went on vacation and had a killer margarita and you are spending your life trying to recreate it since it was so good!

Let's also be honest on the other side of the coin. Maybe you had a bad experience with vodka and can't touch the stuff again. Or you tasted a wine from a part of the world that just wasn't your thing and you avoid it at all costs. Unfortunately, negativity can rear its ugly head as you explore booze of the world.

Being an optimist and a professional, I build off of my good experiences and try to correct the bad ones. I have had the pleasure of drinking red wine out of jelly jars at a picnic table in a back alley outside of a restaurant in Venice. I didn't know what was in the glass, and I didn't care. I also did a tour at Castello Banfi in Tuscany and took part in a five-course wine lunch before walking through vineyards. This was as equally rewarding as drinking mystery juice up north. As for the rough experiences, well...I got over a Captain Morgan incident and learned to appreciate a wide range of rums from all over the world. The Dark and Stormy is now a summertime staple of a cocktail at Castello d'Ambrosini. Still, there is something about wine that makes me feel good. I find it to be the best combination of socialization and relaxation of all the adult beverages. Your opinion might differ and that's fine, but I have never seen anyone unhappy with a glass of wine in his or her hand. 

This Saturday will mark eleven years that I have been married to The Most Awesome Woman In The World. We have shared many great journeys involving gastronomy and delicious adult beverages together. While a beer, a cocktail, or a sip of Cognac has been something we could do independently, there is nothing like sharing a bottle of wine with one another. Today, I give you six bottles that have had a great personal impact on us; we will gladly reach for these wines when we see them again. Whether it is a general style or a specific wine, these have made lasting impressions based on our personal experiences. I hope they become a part of your positive drinking experiences, too, while you make your own personal connections.

King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris ($17): For a longtime, one of my Twitter people had championed this wine as being consistently delicious and versatile with a lot of different foods. When I bought this for the first time and brought it home, we were a very happy couple. Loaded with limes, necatarines, and tropical fruits and a zesty finish., this will always be welcome in the wine fridge. 

Sokol Blosser Evolution Oregon White Blend ($18): When we went to Disney World and I went down to the bar at the Pacific Northwest-themed Wilderness Lodge after a long day in the parks, I brought two glasses of this back to our room. A very interesting "wine stew" of nine different grape varieties with intense aromatics, lush texture, and whirlwind of flavor. You taste something different with each sip.

jolivet sancerre.jpg

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($18): I never tasted Sancerre before meeting my wife. Sancerre is a village located in the eastern Loire Valley of France, known for steely, mouth-watering Sauvignon Blanc. The example from Jolivet shows grapefruit, fresh cut grass, and wet stone flavors. Our preferred point of origin for Sauvignon Blanc more than anywhere else in the world, and my first "wow" white wine.

Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence Rosé ($24): We honeymooned in the south of France and Provence was one of those locations. Sipping rosé with fresh fish caught that morning at a restaurant on the beach was unbelievable. The watermelon, thyme, and saline flavors of the Whispering Angel take me back to those days we spent in Provence.

E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($45): When we were in France, we took a day trip to Avignon. At that time, I didn't realize how close we were to the great vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, because wine was not my specialty at the time! At least I know I can bring Avignon home in some capacity with Guigal's example. Red and black berries, lush texture, and hints of lavender exemplify what Châteauneuf-du-Pape is all about.

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino (2006 vintage, $60): We were married in 2006, and Brunello will always be special to us (my first "wow" red wine. It's the long-lived wine of Tuscany, which we experienced plenty of in our Italy trip. Sour cherries, earth, and leather are pronounced in this wine. Despite being over 10 years old, the wine is still very lively and fresh. This could keep developing in the bottle for another five years easily, and at this price it's a bargain! 

Ask Tony: What's The Deal With Asparagus And Wine?

In my best Jerry Seinfeld voice, "What's the deal with asparagus?"

In my best Jerry Seinfeld voice, "What's the deal with asparagus?"

Welcome to my newest segment: Ask Tony! You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Spring's arrival means the first bounty of green vegetables. While these don't make it to the forefront of a meal for some, certainly this is an important time for the vegetarian and vegan diners out there. Still...you should be having greens on the side with your meat dishes! Listen to your parents for once!

Asparagus: rough stuff if it comes in contact with the wrong wine. Proceed with caution!

Asparagus: rough stuff if it comes in contact with the wrong wine. Proceed with caution!

So among the leafy harvest of kale, Swiss chard, collards, and salad greens also comes the distinct, stalky vegetable called asparagus. It's chemical composition is unique; there are things called "asparagusic acid," "asparagosides," "asparagine," and "asparenyol" involved. These are group of building blocks that make asparagus so asparagus-y. To boot, 60-80% of the asparagus-consuming American population notices quite the "aroma" that emerges when you need to use the potty. All of these asparagus-y chemical components become the bane of many a wine pairing enthusiast. One has to be careful when marrying wines to these spears of green goodness. The wrong choice leads to overly tart, metallic, and astringent flavors on your palate. It's a beyond unpleasant chemical reaction for your senses.

I know...it doesn't sound like there is a lot of upside to getting wine into the equation when asparagus is being served. However, there is always a way. It's not impossible to enjoy both. A really simple guideline is to go for fresh, fruity, unoaked white wines. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Finger Lakes or Alsace Riesling immediately come to mind. You can even go with a Grüner Veltliner, which has always been an equalizer when it comes to greens.

A Grenache-based rosé wine, such as those coming from Navarra (Spain) or from the Côtes du Rhône in France will give you fruitiness if you are not a fan of white wine. If you must have a red, it can be a tougher pairing; any tannins will create chaos. Mild, unoaked, low-tannin reds such as the Gamay-based wines of Beaujolais would be useful in this spot, but go simple. If you spend for the "cru" wines, some (such as those from Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly) have tannin in there; you might want to search for cru regions like Fleurie, which are lighter and gentler.

If all else fails, wrap a piece of prosciutto around a bundle of asparagus or cover asparagus with cheese. That will make life easy and you can just drink whatever you want!

Here are a few specific options for you. Try them for yourself and let me know what you think!

If you have questions you want answered, get in touch with me and maybe I will feature your question in another segment!

Silver Thread Finger Lakes Dry Riesling ($18)

Vibrant and peachy, this dry example from New York finishes clean and should help tame the green monster.

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc ($20)

Bursting with passionfruit, herbs and a hint of stony earthiness, the ripeness will work wonders with asparagus.

Vega Sindoa Navarra Garnacha Rosado ($11)

Not having any part of white wine? This simple pink wine gives you lots of strawberry and spiced flavors at a terrific bargain.

Chateau de Pizay Beaujolais ($15)

A producer who has been a longtime favorite at the store, this is straightforward raspberry and baking spice that will satisfy the red wine fan.

The Skurnik Files: How Back Labels Can Make You A Smarter Shopper

Last week, I wrote of my experience at the Grand Portfolio Tasting presented by Skurnik Wines & Spirits. That event spurred a ton of thoughts on how I can help you, my fellow beverage consumer and today I guide you in a direction that I think most shoppers take for granted.

Skurnik, along with other suppliers, distributors, and importers, sell their products to your favorite wine shops and beverage depots across the country. Depending on the retailer you give your hard-earned money to, you could be speaking to salespeople at a specialty shop to help guide you or you are left to your own devices at a big box store, based on the level of knowledge and experience of the employees. No matter the type of store you frequent, there is always one way to help yourself get an idea of what you might like.

Take a look at the back label of that bottle

The front label of a wine bottle or whiskey bottle is always the sexy, magnetic way of drawing you into the product. It is what is displayed on the shelves, and a lot of times there are some great pieces of information to help you get an idea of what is inside those bottles. There are names of grape varieties, a wine region shown, vineyard names, village names (often in French wines), whiskey age statements, and flavors of a vodka just to name a few examples.

However, on the back is where we find the names of the suppliers. A lot of times, the web sites are listed so you can see their whole portfolio. A supplier may be heavy in Old World/European wines (like Skurnik), almost exclusively Italian (Dark Star Imports), or into South American wine, lesser-known California wines and sake (Vine Connections). Click on any of those links, and you will get stories on individual producers and their products available. You can read about the company's philosophy. Maybe you share the love of organic wines that a supplier is focused on. Or perhaps you see a supplier focused on aged rums (which you might be able to add to your personal collection of aged rums). While each product may not be available in each state, you can oftentimes approach your retailer to see if they can order you anything of interest...and your order typically arrives in 1-2 days if the supplier has the products in stock.

So if, for example, it turns out you really like Skurnik's La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino, you may end up liking Skurnik's Brunello from the producer Mocali. Even if the style is different, it should still taste good. You liked the Mocali? Try their Rosso di Montalcino or the Brunello Riserva. This is how you can develop a personal flavor profile. A high-quality supplier is carefully screening what will do well in the U.S. market or individual states, and when a wine makes it into the portfolio, it will almost always be worth trying if the wine is a style that intrigues you. I like those odds.

You might also see a wine region you never saw before. Google "Salice Salentino". You will discover that Negroamaro is a grape used in this Italian region's red wines. Check out Negroamaro and you'll find descriptions that might mirror Cabernet Sauvignon. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, chances are you might like wines of Salice Salentino.

Three wines from Central Italy, all from different producers, subregions, and importers. Lots of good data to help you, including web sites for further research.

Three wines from Central Italy, all from different producers, subregions, and importers. Lots of good data to help you, including web sites for further research.

William Grant & Sons is a supplier of the best-selling single malt Scotch whisky, Glenfiddich. If you are a fan of Glenfiddich 12 Year, perhaps you want to try the 12 Year example from Balvenie distillery, which is also in the William Grant portfolio.

Provide your feedback to your retailer. The wine manager is going to meet with representatives of these suppliers, so your favorable reviews or harsh criticisms help make future decisions on what you will encounter on the shelves. A little research and dialogue go a long way in helping you figure out smart ways to branch out, all while sticking with a style that your prefer.

So flip that bottle around every now and then. You never know what kick-ass bottle you will discover next.

The Obligatory St. Patrick's Day Beer and Whiskey Post

Today marks a day of great pride. On this day one year ago, my third son was born and many years ago my father was, too. Six years ago tomorrow, my second son was born. Additionally, we have some Irish ancestry in our immediate family, so March 17th carries a lot of importance to us around these parts.

I know that across the country and particularly in the swath of the I-95 corridor stretching from Boston down to Philadelphia, there are many folks taking pride in their Irish roots by participating or attending parades, heading out to a favorite beverage establishment, or enjoying the day humbly and quietly at home. While the outward celebration in the streets is what we are typically used to seeing, the latter method of observance would not be surprising at all. After all, St. Patrick himself was a humble figure in history.

Quick history lesson as I did in my St. Valentine's post: As a teenager, he was captured by pirates in Roman Brittania in the 5th century and enslaved for six years in Ireland, herding and tending to sheep. During his time in captivity, he turned to Catholicism and had a vision that he was to leave Ireland and return home, eventually escaping and finding sailors at the coast who he convinced to bring him back to Brittania. While home, Patrick joined the priesthood, working his way to a bishop. At this time, another vision had him going back to the very place in which he was enslaved to spread Catholicism, so he ventured to Ireland. Here, Patrick began converting the people to Catholicism and built numerous churches across the country, giving all of himself to the cause right up to his death in the middle of the 5th century.

On this day of observance, I know that plenty of Guinness and Jameson will be consumed. Heck, Jameson Irish Whiskey is popular in the U.S. all year long as it makes up 78% of all Irish whiskey sales. Guinness Stout's consumption in the U.S. somewhere near a BILLION liters per year! While these are delicious beverages, it also pays to explore a little. Consider this my attempt to get you to branch out (not convert you). Now, I am no beer authority, but it sure seems like there is a craft movement happening in Ireland. And if you can find any of the beers listed here (even if the post is two years old), I say dive in.

As for whiskey, well...I have you covered. If you need to, feel free to reference my Whisky vs. Whiskey post for general production information

West Cork Distillers Blended Irish Whiskey Bourbon Cask ($20-ish): This is a blend of grain and malted barley to make a light-bodied whiskey with a lot of vanilla flavor. A solid alternative option from Jameson.

The Tyrconnell Single Malt Irish Whiskey (about $40): Kilbeggan Distilling created a creamy and full-bodied example of Irish whiskey made completely from malted barley with a long, fruity finish.

Green Spot Château Leoville-Barton Cask Finish ($90-ish): This is a fantastic way to treat yourself. This single pot still Irish whiskey first ages in a combination of Bourbon and Oloroso Sherry casks, then finishes in casks that held legendary classed growth Bordeaux wine for 12-24 months. The spectrum of flavor is wide and deep, showing everything from peach and plum fruit to sweet baking spices to more savory salt and pepper spices.

Why You Should Attend A Gigantic Tasting Event

In this business, I spend the majority of my time promoting events for the Divine Wine Emporium. I love doing it, because we do some great things at the shop with classroom "Wine 101" courses, guest speakers, and wine and music events. Combining education with enjoyment is important to me; getting customers to share my excitement for these events gives me great personal satisfaction.

Of course, it is also fun to attend an industry event outside of the store, which for me takes a little planning and coordination to make happen. So for a full day, I was able to dump all parenting responsibilities to my loving wife and get out for one such event with Skurnik Wines & Spirits.

Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

A quick summary/tangent about the way alcohol is sold in the U.S. (skip this paragraph if you already know or just don't care): The United States is set up in a three-tiered model of selling alcoholic beverages, meaning the beverage producer (or producer's importer if coming from abroad) sells their product to a wholesaler or distributor. The wholesaler then sells to retailers. Retailers sell to you, either from their stores or their restaurants and bars. There are some ways to go directly from producer to consumer (through wine clubs, for example), but each individual state has its own rules for shipping, taxation, and other aspects of sale. I'll stop here, because we can easily go down a rabbit hole with this topic.

Yes...this is a Barbie doll in a prosciutto dress. Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

Yes...this is a Barbie doll in a prosciutto dress. Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

Skurnik Wines & Spirits is a tremendous importer and distributor of fine wines and distilled beverages with headquarters in New York City. Not only does the company sell its products to retail stores (like the Divine Wine Emporium) and restaurants throughout New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut, but they are a nationwide importer of wines and spirits. Additionally, Skurnik will be opening up distribution in California beginning May 1st. On March 7th, the company celebrated its 30th anniversary with a Grand Portfolio Tasting, showcasing over 1,000 products on 140 tables at the Metropolitan Pavilion. There were dozens of winemakers to talk to and learn from, a bartender mixing cocktails with the spirits on-hand, and prosciutto-clad Barbie dolls.

Now, this particular event was set up strictly for retailers, but there are other opportunities for consumers to go to these large-scale events. I could give you plenty of advice in this regard, but I have to say that my friend the Passionate Foodie has a detailed list on how to attack these types of tastings. There are hundreds of alcoholic beverages on display and you want to get through it without overwhelming yourself or needing to be stuffed into a wheelbarrow and rolled out the door.

So why should you do this? I have three reasons.

You will taste something you would never think to try otherwise on your own.

See this? Can't understand it? Who cares! It's delicious, especially if you like rosé wine.

See this? Can't understand it? Who cares! It's delicious, especially if you like rosé wine.

And this is a great thing. The statement above, after all, is my job! So if I can't be your guide, take what amounts to a self-guided tour of the world. Having the house Chardonnay or California red blend on-hand in your cellar/wine fridge at all times is good...you need that. But at these events, it's an opportunity to get to know a new grape like Verdicchio or Marselan. Explore Austria or some lesser-known corner of Washington state. I promise that you will discover something you never knew you would like.

It will get you out of a rut.

This applies to both the consumer and the trade. For the consumer, it will snap you out of being too comfortable in tasting the same things over and over again. You like Chardonnay? Try a Soave Classico. Like Pinot Noir? Venture into Gamay. Love Scotch? Try a Bourbon. You get the idea.

For the retailers, it can be too easy to purchase the same thing repeatedly. Yes, it's good for business if you are making money selling high volumes of the same product, but customers also want variety and turnover. Spice up the wine list with a Sherry or Port. Get a Chinon Rosé on your shelf.

You may have to step up your self-education and research skills, but so what? It will be a refreshing experience for all involved. 

You meet awesome people in the industry.

Eric de Saint-Victor, owner of Château de Pibarnon and terrific human being! Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

Eric de Saint-Victor, owner of Château de Pibarnon and terrific human being! Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

A lot of folks who work in the wine and spirits business are a lot of fun to talk to. Winemakers and Master Distiller types are often scattered among the tables. As a consumer and a tradesperson, you can learn about the philosophies for creating their desired styles of beverages. They are extremely passionate about what they do and love to pour you samples. If you are in the trade, you get to talk to others who are wine directors and buyers; get to know what's working for them in their part of the country and maybe you can apply it to where you are, too. Sure, everyone is going to theoretically be a competitor, but if LeBron James and Carmelo Anthony can hang out and practice together, you can hang with a fellow wine buyer. 

There is much more to speak of as a result of this event. I tasted some outstanding wines and spirits and YOU need to know about them. Be on the lookout for more posts inspired by the Skurnik tasting!